How did you get your Rb far back?

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
Cleveland180
Posts: 83
Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 5:22 am
Car: 1991 240sx Rb20det coupe
1992 240sx Se HICAS hatch (Donor)
1991 240sx Se HICAS Hatch (Project)
2004 Audi S4 Avant DD

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I am trying to get my rb20 to sit a little bit further back in my engine bay so I can use the clutch fan, but I can't get it to move back the 1/2" I need. My set up is :rb20 with mckinney mounts92 s13, no abs, no vlsd, 5 speed.My problem:the oil pan is resting as far back as I think I can get it, it is pretty much sitting happily right against my crossmember.I don't know where i can get any slack, the mounts are not tightened so i can try to move the engine around but it always goes back to the same place. Any ideas are welcome!

Thanks,Dave


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FinkenS14
Posts: 757
Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2008 4:08 pm
Car: 1995 Nissan 240sx S14
Location: Thornton, Colorado
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The McKinney Mounts place the motor as far back as possible already. You can make it move back any farther because then your drivesaft and transmission mount wont line up right.

Run Alima fans or a custom electric fan set up.

Searching woul help too.

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Funktown240
Posts: 92
Joined: Sun Sep 20, 2009 12:42 pm
Car: 93' 240sx

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What kind of radiator are you using? I would suggest using a stock single core S14 w/clutch fan. . .its a better setup than a dual w/electric fans IMO. Plus you dont get the AMP draw as with Efans.

Cleveland180
Posts: 83
Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 5:22 am
Car: 1991 240sx Rb20det coupe
1992 240sx Se HICAS hatch (Donor)
1991 240sx Se HICAS Hatch (Project)
2004 Audi S4 Avant DD

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Finken, what you tell me is false, I have another inch in between my firewall and the back of my engine, and also I can see that there is around a half inch of the drive shaft spline that could go further into the back of the transmission if the engine would go back a little further. Also I did search, I have seen numerous pictures of people running rb's with the stock fans and was hoping someone could give me a tip on how they did it. Carl H said that if you are creative it can work, so i tried being creative and after four hours thought maybe some one on here could hep me out.

Funktown, Are you suggesting the use of an s14 clutch fan instead of the rb?

If I had a clutch fan with a half inch shorter input shaft then I could run that and have no interference front or back.

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wakotow
Posts: 114
Joined: Sun Oct 12, 2008 10:11 am
Car: '93 240sx S1 RB25 + HX35

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I'm pretty sure being creative meant move the radiator forward.

zerothread?id=453880

You could also just run electric fans and a water misting system if all the regular ducting and stuff doesn't work (that's what I'm doing this summer)

zerothread?id=262601

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DustinZ
Posts: 666
Joined: Sat Jan 07, 2006 5:19 pm
Car: 1990 Z32, rb25 s13, 1980 S130 10th anniversary, 1978 5speed fact ac s30, s2 rb26 on deck!

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Bolt the clutch fan up on the other side of the clutch and the fan will be right on the crank pulley. Sometimes you have to file the back side of the fan blades a little bit so they wont tag the crank pulley but it will clear your radiator.

People shouldnt chime in if they dont have an answer worth a $hit.

Yellow4g63
Posts: 3718
Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2003 6:07 pm
Car: 95 Nissan RB20 240SX RB20
91 Nissan NX2000 VE power
95 Nissan 240SX Stock
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The S14 is easy to move it fwd, S13 is a little more work but worth it. Koyo with fan clutch and shroud = cool temp.

Cleveland180
Posts: 83
Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 5:22 am
Car: 1991 240sx Rb20det coupe
1992 240sx Se HICAS hatch (Donor)
1991 240sx Se HICAS Hatch (Project)
2004 Audi S4 Avant DD

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The problem I am having with moving my radiator forward, is the bottom, am I really supposed to remove all of that channel where the A/C used to be and put my radiator in there, if i don't the radiator is far too tall... IDK ... I just wanna be able to drive my car this year and not have any worries.

craz4240
Posts: 738
Joined: Wed Sep 13, 2006 4:23 pm
Car: 1995 240sx w/rb20det
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Carl H used I think a mustang radiator made by griffin I believe it was short enough to just fit under the rad support and fwd enough to clear a clutch fan.

Cleveland180
Posts: 83
Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 5:22 am
Car: 1991 240sx Rb20det coupe
1992 240sx Se HICAS hatch (Donor)
1991 240sx Se HICAS Hatch (Project)
2004 Audi S4 Avant DD

Post

The problem I am having with moving my radiator forward, is the bottom, am I really supposed to remove all of that channel where the A/C used to be and put my radiator in there, if i don't the radiator is far too tall... IDK ... I just wanna be able to drive my car this year and not have any worries.

Cleveland180
Posts: 83
Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 5:22 am
Car: 1991 240sx Rb20det coupe
1992 240sx Se HICAS hatch (Donor)
1991 240sx Se HICAS Hatch (Project)
2004 Audi S4 Avant DD

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Ok So I have been thinking, I have yet to tighten the bolts on my mounts, for those you are unfamiliar with the McKinney mounts, they have four semi vertical bolts for the mounts and then two horizontal bolts on that bolt into the stock crossmember, do you think that I can scoot my motor back a bit by using the bolts to pull my engine back? or do you think the mount bushings will just flex to accommodate the extra force? I am just trying to brain storm here, and I don't think it would give me all that much space, but is it worth counting on ? I want to do as little trimming the to fan as possible because I know that fan tips are pretty important in affecting the way the air flows. Ideas?

On a side note, I have seen the new rad support made by one of the members, but I have no welding experience so that is kinda out of the question.

Sil240
Posts: 2973
Joined: Mon Apr 28, 2003 5:26 pm
Car: Nissan S13 "The One Cam Wonder"

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They're not lying to you

Either change your Rad, shave your fan blades or if you have room space them out, or move your Rad forward or get slim efans or pusher fans or butcher your $500 mounts to pull your engine back an inch.

You've been given a lot of options choose one, or "get creative " and figure something else out.

But most of all SEARCH!!!!!!!Your not the first person to have this problem or question.

Cleveland180
Posts: 83
Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 5:22 am
Car: 1991 240sx Rb20det coupe
1992 240sx Se HICAS hatch (Donor)
1991 240sx Se HICAS Hatch (Project)
2004 Audi S4 Avant DD

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hahaha woah woah woah! I am not trying to butcher anything, they have holes in them for securing the motor , I am just asking if the jacking force of the bolts will move the engine back any. I guess I should just solve this issue and post up my results.

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RustspecS13
Posts: 928
Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2007 5:30 pm
Car: '74 260z and '88 300zx turbo

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No, those tabs will just flex and bend before they move your motor a worth while difference.

Part of the problem is the transmission mount will also restrict your movement. If your that serious you'll have to modify that mount to get the move movement.

And if the oil pan is already resting on the crossmember, why are you not fixing that first. If you are completely serious about moving your engine back another 1/2 to 1 in your going to have to get out the grinder and welder. Trust me I hate having the long heavy rb all the way out there, but its diminishing gains unless you start chopping the firewall.

I just got 2 13in pusher fans from jegs. It wasn't the cheapest option but Ive never had a problem with cooling. That and my cxracing radiator. I'm also going to add a coolant swirl pot this year as well.

~Alex

Cleveland180
Posts: 83
Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 5:22 am
Car: 1991 240sx Rb20det coupe
1992 240sx Se HICAS hatch (Donor)
1991 240sx Se HICAS Hatch (Project)
2004 Audi S4 Avant DD

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Thanks, I will be working on her in two weeks and I will let you guys know what I come up with.


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