How close are the Q45 & 300ZX suspension
How close are the Q45 & 300ZX suspension
Just curious as to what componets are the same, tie rods, shocks. etc etc etc, any help would be nice, buddy crashed his Z and asked if I could use anything, Thanks.
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jefftrexler
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- Car: 1991 Nissan Maxima
Actually the front caliopers from a 300ZX TT are of a 4-piston variety. I got these for my Q45, but after purchasing them I found that they wouldn't fit behind my wheels without spacers. With my tires tucked behind the fenders, this was not a viable option. I sold them to a guy with a 2nd gen maxima and the last I heard they fit and worked great.AZhitman wrote:To my knowledge, the calipers are the same... Am I missing something?
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Q45tech
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- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
The problem is the 30mm rotor is not much better [heavier] than oem 28 mm. The aluminum calipers cannot store heat as well as the iron later units.
The 97 and later Q used a redesigned heavier rotor [20 vs. 17.5 pounds] in the same 28mm thickness with a touch more diameter.
A Q ideally would have 22-24 pound rotors and 32mm thickness.
Keeping the rotor hat clean and shiny along with the inside of wheel is important to maximize heat transfer to the wheel and away from rotor. Even heat transfer grease helps as the metals are disimiliar [iron to aluminum]
The 97 and later Q used a redesigned heavier rotor [20 vs. 17.5 pounds] in the same 28mm thickness with a touch more diameter.
A Q ideally would have 22-24 pound rotors and 32mm thickness.
Keeping the rotor hat clean and shiny along with the inside of wheel is important to maximize heat transfer to the wheel and away from rotor. Even heat transfer grease helps as the metals are disimiliar [iron to aluminum]
I think what Tech's saying is to think of the caliper as a thermal reservoir, or thermal capacitor, and the overflow volume is the brake fluid. If you can dump heat into the reservoir (caliper) temporarily, during a few stops, and then let it cool for a while, you're better off than if you dump more of that heat into the fluid directly.
Q45tech wrote:Keeping the rotor hat clean and shiny along with the inside of wheel is important to maximize heat transfer to the wheel and away from rotor. Even heat transfer grease helps as the metals are disimiliar [iron to aluminum]
It's amazing how important this is. A couple of years ago, a friend driving a Supra in One Lap of America was having terrible brake fade problems, which didn't make sense because the Supra has outstanding brakes. The problem ended up being the hollow stainless spacers he was using on the front wheels that were inhibiting heat transfer to the wheel.
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Q45tech
- Moderator
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- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
What heat that doesn't flow from the rotors to the wheels/tires has to flow thru the hubs to the inside of wheel bearings......melting the grease and wearing out the bearings.ABS sensor ring/sensor are other considerations.
You modify one thing and cause the failure of something else!
The brake pad backing metal and shim packages, and grease are critical because on the need to balance heat flow to the caliper pistons.As the pads wear there is less insulative pad material so the brake fluid temperature rises dramatically from new to old pads. At the same time the new fluid you replaced with the new pads has degraded and absorbed moisture.
Why I replace my pads when they are 2/3rds worn [3mm not the factory minimum of 2mm] or the sensor alarm point of 1.5mm!
I always keep spare pads on hand because you never know exactly when by mileage.
Wheel spacers even the hub centric type must be used with heat transfer grease to hopefully increase the transfer. They must be a full match to the exact hub shape and diameter.
RUST is very insulative, why you spend time polishing the hub and inside of wheel and rotors [in/out] to increase thermal conductivity.
Why do you think I say I am scared of old cars they are never even close to new in braking performance...........nobody takes the time or spends the money to keep them that way.
Surely not the $99 special friction reline people, and probably not any dealer either as it would add $100 per wheel to each brake job.........in labor.Most freeeeeeeeeek at $190-$200 per axle when it should cost that per wheel plus rotors.
You modify one thing and cause the failure of something else!
The brake pad backing metal and shim packages, and grease are critical because on the need to balance heat flow to the caliper pistons.As the pads wear there is less insulative pad material so the brake fluid temperature rises dramatically from new to old pads. At the same time the new fluid you replaced with the new pads has degraded and absorbed moisture.
Why I replace my pads when they are 2/3rds worn [3mm not the factory minimum of 2mm] or the sensor alarm point of 1.5mm!
I always keep spare pads on hand because you never know exactly when by mileage.
Wheel spacers even the hub centric type must be used with heat transfer grease to hopefully increase the transfer. They must be a full match to the exact hub shape and diameter.
RUST is very insulative, why you spend time polishing the hub and inside of wheel and rotors [in/out] to increase thermal conductivity.
Why do you think I say I am scared of old cars they are never even close to new in braking performance...........nobody takes the time or spends the money to keep them that way.
Surely not the $99 special friction reline people, and probably not any dealer either as it would add $100 per wheel to each brake job.........in labor.Most freeeeeeeeeek at $190-$200 per axle when it should cost that per wheel plus rotors.
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sijoko
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The Skyline rotors will go a long time without warping due to their mass. The key is to index them and break them in gently.
The replacements are about $140 for the drilled and $100 for the solid version.
The brake pads that are used are from the 300zx TT. There are no sensors on the pads.
But pad changes are super easy. They slide right out after you remove the pins.
-sijoko
The replacements are about $140 for the drilled and $100 for the solid version.
The brake pads that are used are from the 300zx TT. There are no sensors on the pads.
But pad changes are super easy. They slide right out after you remove the pins.
-sijoko
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elwesso
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2007 BMW M Coupe
2007 Infiniti G35 S 6MT - Location: Indiana
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Re: (pito11213)
A lot of people use suspension stuff.. mark86t used Z tension rods and upper links...
Regardless, whatever you get for the Q from a Z (or 240) must be adjustable since the geometry is the same, but the actual dimensions arent.....
I know I should search, but how big are the skyline rotors?? Are they 32mm like tech says they should be?? Don... what kind of improvements can you find? I was looking on ebay, and I cna get a complete set of skyline brakes for like $300...
Regardless, whatever you get for the Q from a Z (or 240) must be adjustable since the geometry is the same, but the actual dimensions arent.....
I know I should search, but how big are the skyline rotors?? Are they 32mm like tech says they should be?? Don... what kind of improvements can you find? I was looking on ebay, and I cna get a complete set of skyline brakes for like $300...