How can I tell if my whole ditributor is shot or if it's simply the rotors, etc.

[meyersk76]

Car will not turn over. Diagnosis from shop is the whole distributor. Just hesitant to fork over the $200+ for the whole distributor as opposed to $12 for the rotor or some other small priced part that may actually be the culprit. My QX4 has 150K on it now.

[carnal_c30]

usually the bad distributor will throw a CEL code, but honestly I would just replace the rotor and caps and see if it makes a difference.

maintainance history would be a plus, were the caps/rotors ever changed before?

I've actually never seen a cap/rotor go bad but thats because they are so cheap to replace most people do, and also I am quite unfamiliar with cars with distributors =o

I say just try the cheap stuff first, my distributor went bad at 180k so it might be around that time.

[carnal_c30]

Tests before replacement:1. Test power transistor and coil. Refer to service manual for specific test procedures.

2. Check ECC fuse and/or fusible link at fusebox.

3. Check ECC relay, typically a black/white wire, for 12v.

4. Check for 12v at distributor; typically an orange wire, pin 2.

5. Check continuity of all wiring going to and from computer, transistor and distributor.

6. To test optical sensor in the distributor, remove distributor cap and remove the distributor, but leave the harness to the sensor connected. Turn ignition switch on (DO NOT START ENGINE). Rotate distributor shaft slowly by hand and check voltage between terminal 1 (black) and ground and then between terminal 2 (orange) and ground. Measure voltage on 12v DC scale; it should fluctuate between 0 and 5 volts DC.

http://www.autocarepronews.com...83958&