how bad is this?

ONLY for ADVANCED technical discussion about the 240sx!
Eion
Posts: 98
Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2009 10:28 pm
Car: zenki s14

Post

previous owners didn't take care of the car at all. at first there was a overheating problem due to old nasty rusty coolant then i decided to do all of my gaskets and hoses. first i decided to do my valve cover gasket and i seen this:

Image


any input would be nice.


NCsilvia88
Posts: 10
Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2010 3:16 pm
Car: 1995 nissan 240 sx sr2odet

Post

one of the coolant plugs in the head probably went bad or one of ur gaskets in the head is no longer good

rioredstang
Posts: 293
Joined: Sun Nov 30, 2008 3:47 pm
Car: 1993 240sx SCCA ITS
Location: Chattanooga, TN

Post

I can't see very well, but check the oil in crank case. If it shows signs of moisture in oil or looks milky, then you may have a headgasket. If looks like sludge, then check and see if thermostat has been taken out. If the thermostat has been removed it will cause condensation in the engine.

Eion
Posts: 98
Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2009 10:28 pm
Car: zenki s14

Post

NCsilvia88 wrote:one of the coolant plugs in the head probably went bad or one of ur gaskets in the head is no longer good
well i do have a massive leak, that caused the car to over heat. i'm in the process of taking it all apart to replace all of the hoses. also i found out that everything on the car still is OEM.

rioredstang wrote:I can't see very well, but check the oil in crank case. If it shows signs of moisture in oil or looks milky, then you may have a headgasket. If looks like sludge, then check and see if thermostat has been taken out. If the thermostat has been removed it will cause condensation in the engine.
doesn't the dipstick check the oil around the crankcase and if it was milky in the crank case, it would show up in the oil pan? i'm actually in the process of replacing all of the gaskets also.

thanks for your input.

BCNR13-specD
Posts: 36
Joined: Thu Nov 18, 2010 12:35 pm
Car: 1985 mercedes 380se

Post

If your oil has water/coolant in it then its not so bad accept when the water gets around the bearings and can cause a bearing to "turn/ spin" while your in there you should see if that happened cause a spun bearing will cause parts of the engine to be starved for oil. it might be a good idea to buy new rod and main bearings and while you have it apart check the parts for unusual scaring or wear. you shouldnt have any grooves in those spots. and you dont have to but you might pay the local machine shop to cheak the level on the head and deck. just to make sure the overheating didnt warp the head or block. they can advise you of your options after that.

NCsilvia88
Posts: 10
Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2010 3:16 pm
Car: 1995 nissan 240 sx sr2odet

Post

also if ur oil has bronze pieces of metal in it that is a sign u have spun a bearing if u spun one ur going to have to get it machined and that can be expensive and it might not even work after u get it done

liquid_cool
Posts: 1700
Joined: Sat Jul 05, 2008 3:02 am
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX KA24DE-T swap 8.6:1cr, duelsprings, ti retainers,supertech pistons, K1 H-beems balanced internals ect ect

Post

NCsilvia88 wrote:also if ur oil has bronze pieces of metal in it that is a sign u have spun a bearing if u spun one ur going to have to get it machined and that can be expensive and it might not even work after u get it done
i hate to bring ya down on this post man...but the might not work after you get it done part is false.....its not uncommon for race motors to spina brearing during race conditions..it actually happens frequently due to head gasket failure....with that said...good motor builders have found ways to save cranks after this damage...what they do is repolish the the serface that rides on the bearing surface...they then take finite meshurments and basicly tell you what size ( over size ) bearings to run to solve your issue...you can order over size bearings for the ka from .05mm all the way to .30mm...what you must ask your self thou..is it finacially worht it to you thou to pay $100.'s of bucks to get this done..when there are spare ka's out there for 50 to 100 bucks compleate....hope this enlightend you a little man..good luck

bmxer300zx
Posts: 177
Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2009 2:10 pm
Car: 1993 300zx dd
1992 toyota cressida rb20det swapped
Location: maine

Post

i spun a bearing in my 300zx every one said get a new motor. that was at 142xxx well i didnt get a motor i spent 380 getting the crank reground a bearings measured to size and bought all new gaskets seals timing belt waterpump thermostat headers and other misc pieces.well 1200 dollars later and 191xxx on my odemeter a year and half later its still goin.so it can be worth it question is ar u willing to do the work.n2m ull end up with a better motor rather than spending a grand plus for a motor with a giant question mark on it

bmxer300zx
Posts: 177
Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2009 2:10 pm
Car: 1993 300zx dd
1992 toyota cressida rb20det swapped
Location: maine

Post

and f.y.i wat is in the pic that suppose to be bad?

Eion
Posts: 98
Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2009 10:28 pm
Car: zenki s14

Post

the post of me calling myself an idiot and not realizing that the intake and exhaust cams are marked different colors didn't post. sorry, but thanks for the input anyways.

liquid_cool
Posts: 1700
Joined: Sat Jul 05, 2008 3:02 am
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX KA24DE-T swap 8.6:1cr, duelsprings, ti retainers,supertech pistons, K1 H-beems balanced internals ect ect

Post

those colors are not exact man...dont ever go by em...just meshure the cam lobs..the larger one is the exauhst cam...easy as that


Return to “240SX Technical Forum”