how bad is it for the e-brakes?

Post by **mkg12** » Wed May 26, 2004 5:03 pm

how bad is it for the e-brakes when u pull them up for something like a e-brake drift or something?

i mean it shouldnt do any or much damage i would think.

Post by **Chingon** » Wed May 26, 2004 5:03 pm

not bad at all....

j/k i don't know. new shoes (best scenario)

Post by **silkk** » Wed May 26, 2004 5:03 pm

it'll only wear out the pads and your tires.. i think.

Post by **SHIFTrl240** » Wed May 26, 2004 5:03 pm

it eats at the muffler bearings too :rolleyes

Post by **black_s13** » Wed May 26, 2004 5:03 pm

it defenitly kills the shoes, well if you have the entire rear swapped with a Z32, cause stock 240s done have shoes, its all discs. muffler bearings and blinker fluid may be destroyed as well.

Post by **Fenvy** » Wed May 26, 2004 5:03 pm

I don't know why but ebraking on my 240sx doesn't seem to do **** for me, either I'm doing it wrong or it's because it's a rwd

works fine on my integra though (fwd)

Post by **mkg12** » Wed May 26, 2004 5:03 pm

wouldnt e-braking wear the rears pads just as much as braking with the pedal wears the front ones?

whats blinker fluid?

Post by **black_s13** » Wed May 26, 2004 5:03 pm

you dont check your blinker fluid? oh ****... i would do that ASAP.

Post by **Chingon** » Wed May 26, 2004 5:03 pm

damn...so the rears are not shoes on stock 240's?

Post by **Fenvy** » Wed May 26, 2004 5:03 pm

mkg12 wrote:wouldnt e-braking wear the rears pads just as much as braking with the pedal wears the front ones?

whats blinker fluid?

'

I think he was jesting about the blinker fluid

Post by **themadscientist** » Wed May 26, 2004 5:03 pm

240s have a machanical cable tied into the rear disks for a parking brake. S13s, not sure about S14s.

Blinker fluid is an electro luminesent fluid in JDM side blinkers, electricity passed through the light causes it to glow and brighter than standard bulbs.

No wait I just completely made that up, so sorry! Hey anybody want to hear my red car is faster theory, woo hoo hoo:crazy

Wed May 26, 2004 5:03 pm

but the red car IS faster...

Post by **PhaneSoul** » Wed May 26, 2004 5:03 pm

lol, mines faster.... the black paint gives it over 550hp.... beat that sucka's... and my crack in my dash adds another 105

Post by **Mr1der** » Wed May 26, 2004 5:03 pm

SHIFTrl240 wrote:it eats at the muffler bearings too :rolleyes

back in the cave troll!

it shouldn't do anything really bad, other then wear out tires.

just knife the clutch instead:D

Post by **180fan** » Wed May 26, 2004 5:03 pm

PhaneSoul wrote:lol, mines faster.... the black paint gives it over 550hp.... beat that sucka's... and my crack in my dash adds another 105

easy, the song Kyle's mom's a bi%ch playing instantly give me a shot of nos that'll make Ludacris in 2f2f wanna slap himself with his jerk off hand! You suckas got served!

Post by **[Zero-S]** » Wed May 26, 2004 5:03 pm

Please, no bad movie puns.

Post by **Dystopia** » Wed May 26, 2004 5:03 pm

no the side brake as its called is great for maintainign and controling your slide.

Luke · Post by **Luke** » Wed May 26, 2004 5:03 pm

Loveless wrote:I don't know why but ebraking on my 240sx doesn't seem to do **** for me, either I'm doing it wrong or it's because it's a rwd

works fine on my integra though (fwd)

Poor Honda boy, j/k

Try pushing the clutch in before you try to lock the rear wheels up

What stops running if the clutch is engaged and the drive wheels aren't moving? (I hope you don't have an auto)

Post by **Anand** » Wed May 26, 2004 5:03 pm

Luke wrote:Poor Honda boy, j/k

Try pushing the clutch in before you try to lock the rear wheels up What stops running if the clutch is engaged and the drive wheels aren't moving? (I hope you don't have an auto)

LOL, I was just about to say that... press the clutch in all the way and then pull the breaks...

Also try warming up the pads before you actually try to lock up the rears...

Post by **spec-u-later** » Wed May 26, 2004 5:03 pm

Remember to hold in your clutch when you e-brake or the motor will work against you.

Post by **Dystopia** » Wed May 26, 2004 5:03 pm

you can als convert the reaer to hydralic brakes, ebrake that is

Post by **mkg12** » Wed May 26, 2004 5:03 pm

soooo it sounds like it doesnt matter really

except if u care about ur pads or tires

and u know what adds more horsepower then paint or a cracked

dash??? DECALS AND STICKERS!!!!!! DONT U JUST LOVE

THOSE "NITRO" STICKERS?? i mean it adds around 75 horses

right???to bad there car doesnt really run on alcohol those idiots

that dont know what nitro and nitrous is

Post by **Chingon** » Wed May 26, 2004 5:03 pm

Dystopia wrote:you can als convert the reaer to hydralic brakes, ebrake that is

the rears are hydraulic...the e-brake is mechanical....

Unless there is a weird way to have hydraulic e-brakes and retain pressure somehow....

Post by **BuudWeizErr** » Wed May 26, 2004 5:03 pm

Chingon wrote:the rears are hydraulic...the e-brake is mechanical....

Unless there is a weird way to have hydraulic e-brakes and retain pressure somehow....

Some rigged up line lock system could do it, but cable setup works fine.

I use the ebrake midslide if I think I'm going to come too far around to catch the rear. But it also helps for getting around very tight corners.

And yes, if you're not pushing in the clutch before you yank your ebrake, all you are doing is wearing your rear pads. If you are using aftermarket pads (ex: hawk, axis, etc) they may work better when warm. Drive around for a minute with your ebrake up slightly. Not so much that you can't drive, just so they are touching. Then use it to initiate and see how it does as opposed to cold.

Post by **Anand** » Wed May 26, 2004 5:03 pm

yup, just pull your ebrake up like 2-3 notches and there you have it

Oh and this goes for generic pads too... bcause I have them and they grip much better when they are warmed up...

Post by **daniel** » Wed May 26, 2004 5:03 pm

hahahha

just gank that ebrake.its fun..

anand

all pads work better when they are in their operating temp =)except for

hc titan kaithose **** grip even whent hey're frozen haha

Post by **Dystopia** » Wed May 26, 2004 5:03 pm

i am going to steal a post from Daniel on another board....

Quote »

Here's what you want to do for a hydraulic ebrake

1. get a spare clutch master cylinder 2. disconnect and remove all your old ebrake cabling 3. disconnect rear brake line at the tee and then you're going to want to move that brake line into the old ebrake lines position 4. now you're going to want to take a section of something like 3/16" line and run it from the cab to where the old ebrake used to be

okay now that thats all set up, just get a few brake line adapters and hook them up to where the res used to be so you can hook up the line to the c. master cyl.

now, run a line from teh brake master cyl into your extra clutch master cyl so that its

BMS--->CMS2--->REAR BRAKE

you now will have a hydraulic ebrake that will lock the rear wheels from the caliper!![/quote]

Post by **daniel** » Wed May 26, 2004 5:03 pm

cool

dont make mention of that other board.=)lets keep that one quiet.

Post by **Phax** » Wed May 26, 2004 5:03 pm

I use my ebrake all the time. You have to be aware of how hot it gets. I have Hawk HPS pads, and the brake stops grabbing quite so well after a couple of strong applications.

Post by **Dystopia** » Wed May 26, 2004 5:03 pm

i wont dan... i want to keep it how it is....

this is catharsis BTW

how bad is it for the e-brakes?

how bad is it for the e-brakes?

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