Hotpipe Nipple Adaption for Wastegate Vacuum??

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duffman1278
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I would like to know if anyone has actually installed a hose barb or something else into their hotpipe as a means for the vacuum to the wastegate? All I've seemed to read about is people trying to find places that will weld aluminum nipples on their pipes, but I havn't gotten a solid answer. I have not seen one person use a hose barb yet, except for one guy who mounted it too his turbo outlet pipe.

So let me know if anyones used a hose barb instead of having it welded, or some other method.


Z28ricer
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Take the outlet elbow, drill it and tap it 1/8MPT then get a 1/8MPT x 1/4 hb fitting from hardware store.

codyace
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If you're debating on drilling into your hotpipe, I would strong suggest expoxying around the hose barb fitting to create a tight seal. There is simply not enough material there.

I toook my hotpipe to a welder and simple had 2 1/8" NPT 'bungs' welded onto the hotpipe, which I then screwed the hose barb fittings into.

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240_SeX
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I used a threaded barb fitting on my hot pipe for my wastegate, you dont have to use an epoxy, i used some white thread tape and it works fine with no leaks. You can have them welded as well. Welding would be the stronger and more reliable option but if you chose that route you need a welder and a sufficent opperator to do the welding, also you cannot remove the welded fittings(dont know why you would want to) but its all up to you

slik_s13
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i took mine to a local machinist to a have bung welded on. i wouldnt trust the one where you screw it on to your silicone coupler

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seanman
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my greddy front mount came with an attatchment for the original wastegate off the sidemount. its about 3/4 inch wide or so, but i took a few pieces of rubber hosing and put them together so that it scales down to a small vacuum hose size then i have that running to my boost controller then to my wastegate actuator. im going to seal it with silicon so i dont have any boost leaks which im pretty sure i dont have any

duffman1278
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Seems like welding it will be my best bet then. I'd rather just do it right the first time and be sure. I'll probably do what codyace said, and have an NPT fitting welded into it. Thanks alot

codyace
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duffman1278 wrote:Seems like welding it will be my best bet then. I'd rather just do it right the first time and be sure. I'll probably do what codyace said, and have an NPT fitting welded into it. Thanks alot
No problem! It's cheap, and leak proof. Plus, that way you can use the bung to adapt to other things if need be.

Not sure how that other member was able to even tap the hot pipe, as it's so thin.

duffman1278
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Thats what I questioned as well.

mika31p
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It is really to easy to drill you just dont want to force it.. Drill the opening a bit smaller than your fitting and try to screw the fitting in work the drill point a little bit and it will go.. Then you can clean the area with a good cleaner mix a little JB weld and aply around the fitting and allow it to dry. we have done this on many hot pipes and have yet to have one leak..

codyace
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mika31p wrote:It is really to easy to drill you just dont want to force it.. Drill the opening a bit smaller than your fitting and try to screw the fitting in work the drill point a little bit and it will go.. Then you can clean the area with a good cleaner mix a little JB weld and aply around the fitting and allow it to dry. we have done this on many hot pipes and have yet to have one leak..
That's different. The tap itself isn't really sealing anything, it's the JB weld that is. In my first response you'll see me mentioning the epoxy method for that reason.

goalguy02
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My biggest gripe about tapping and screwing a fitting into the pipe is now, depending on the lenght of the fitting, have an obstruction in your hot pipe. I like the idea of welding a bung, but with thin pot metal you have to be very careful not to melt the pipe.

codyace
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goalguy02 wrote:My biggest gripe about tapping and screwing a fitting into the pipe is now, depending on the lenght of the fitting, have an obstruction in your hot pipe. I like the idea of welding a bung, but with thin pot metal you have to be very careful not to melt the pipe.
That obstruction is 'moot' sort to speak, and will make no difference. No worse than a traditional hose clamp 'ridge'

But the bung IMO is the best way. Cheap, and no fail. Just get it tigged on :D


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