Hoses and Valve covers

[elwesso]

After some recent discoveries, I am going to need to have a major work day (more like a week ) on the Q..... This is what needs to happen......

Plenum removal/cleaningKnock sensorsvalve coversfuel rail flush

After of couple hard runs, Ive actually seen a little smoke coming out from the hood..... Pop it open, and its from the valve covers....... Plus, it occasionally reeks up the cabin when im sitting in traffic..... Only happened 2 times that I can remember.......

And just so you know, I did a search, and most of the posts are related to pre-94s, with all the RTV crap......

So here's my Qs......1. Is there anything special about doing the valve covers2. whats the best way to clean the valve covers (i have access to a shop parts cleaner)3. Can I clean up some of the varnish on the heads while im in there?4. Is there anything else I should look into while doing the valve covers (FYI plugs have been done about 2000 miles ago)

Also, since Id be doing the plenum, I need to think hoses..... At the meet, I talked with Fred, and the hoses looked ok..... The hoses I have removed are the hose going into the thermostat cover, brake booster hose, and the vacuum hose underneath the intake hose, near the TB...... All of these hoses looked pretty much new, very soft and pliable..... No signs of interior rotting or anything..... The brake booster hose was a little hard, but looked OK inside...... Ill probably replace that........

[DAEDALUS]

1. Lots of stuff in the way that has to be moved. You will REALLY want to go buy 1/4" drive 8mm and 10mm jointed sockets from Sears and a long 1/4" extension. They pay for themselves after changing 1/2 the plugs, and are almost essential for the little screws in the far corner on each cover.2. Parts washer should be fine,depending on what's in the solution. Realize that the covers are painted, so don't clean them with anything that might eat the paint! (*sigh* Like RTV eater).3. Probably, as long as you flush the heads well with oil when you're done, change the oil before starting the car, and then change it again after a week of easy driving (what I would do, anyway).4. You didn't mention the air bypass hoses. These go brittle first. If they're REALLY brittle, you may have to remove the plenum too, which doubles the job. There's a hose at each rear cover corner that runs under the plenum. Most people pry the fitting out of the cover, but if the hose is brittle enough, even this small amount of movement will shatter the hose. Then you'll be in a mess o' cuss.With your year and miles, though, you'll probably be fine.

[elwesso]

Where are these air bypass hoses??? Can I get to those easily..... If I recall, I remember familiarizing myself with the VH45DE a while back ago, and I felt the IAC, and it felt good....... Ill double check tomrrow afternoon......

Also, are the PCV valves something to replace also, while im there???

The parts washer Id be using im not sure what it is, but I know it says OZZY on it, and you put OZZYJUICE in it, which contains OZZYMICROBES...... I get a little too much enjoyment saying that

Ive never really replaced a valve cover gasket before, nor I have I seen one done...... I think Ill be able to handle it.....

What would you use for the cleaning of the heads???

I think you misread my post, but I WILL be removing the plenum to do this job (knock sensor replacement)...... Im gonna try AAACOMP's method, of unbolting it, and then reaching around and undoing all the hoses, along with the passenger side of the IAC hose, and the EGR....... He said it should only take an hour or so......

Also, once I get the plugs out, how much time is it from there??? Might also be a good time to check compression......

Thanks for the quick reply, BTW....... Maybe I could get a NICO member from up north to come give me a hand.....

[DAEDALUS]

The bypass hoses run to and from the valve covers, and to the PCV (which is cheap, so change it). I've only seen the insides of a few Q engines, none of which needed cleaning. Problem is that there are all these pockets and crevices that will collect cleaner and grit, and which are really hard to get to, especially with the engine in the car. Probably better to use chemical flushes before taking the covers off. Changing the oil is a good idea regardless, because you will drop dirt in there if nothing else. Once the plugs are out, it's maybe another hour to get the covers off. Shouldn't be hard since they're leaking. If you're having trouble, then look around, you might have forgotten a screw. Solid gaskets sure do make life easy...no scraping old RTV or degreasing surfaces for hours to get a good bond. Taking stuff apart goes by quick. It's the reassembly that involves careful, patient work.

[elwesso]

So the air hose that hooks into the intake tract, on the driver side, coming from the valve cover is considered a bypass hose???

Ill be sure to follow the FSM about the bolt tightening procedure...!

If manual cleaning isnt suggested, I think I will just do the ATF trick next few oil changes.......!

[911/Q45]

I would replace all the rubber under the plenum, you don't want to ever take that thing off again! If you get a leaky fuel line a month down the road, you'll be hating life.

[elwesso]

Again.... I prodded, poked, squeezed and gesticulated every hose I could get my hands on, all of which seemed very supple, in almost new condition........

Just so you know, when this does get done, it will have a MASSIVE write up......

[elwesso]

Alright..... I took a look into what im getting into......

How on Gods green earth do you get to those bottom right rocker cover bolts??? I mean really, I dont think I could get to them..... Other than that, it doesnt look too bad..... Im gonna have about 4 or 5 days to do it, so Ill be taking my time!!!!

[elwesso]

Also, I forgot...... Do you have any recommendations on OTC chemical flushes, besides the ATF trick???

[elwesso]

One more thing..... In the FSM, it mentions to use liquid gasket... I quote..... "Use a continuous bead of liquid gasket to mating surfact of rocker cover gasket and cylinder head"..... So that means I gotta use liquid gasket IN ADDITION to the solid gasket??

[Q451990]

Which FSM are you using, the 1990? To my knowledge, the 90-93 used RTV and the later models used the solid gasket instead.

Heath

[sultan]

the 94 book does indeed say "Use a continuous bead of liquid gasket to mating surfact of rocker cover gasket and cylinder head."

[DAEDALUS]

Should be one or the other. I'm sure it's a mistake, it's not the first. I've never seen a '94 or later rocker cover, but my understanding is that they don't have the groove on the underside of the cover that runs along the perimeter like the '90-'93s do. This groove controls the bondline thickness of the RTV, which is important. BG makes a flush which should be pretty good.For the bolts, are you using a long 1/4" extension with a jointed 10mm socket? The back-most one I think you have to go in from behind or next to the ABS pump.

[elwesso]

I was using the 94 manual..... My 90 doesnt have the torque pattern for the nuts..... So would you say that just using the gasket would be good enough???? I mean, I guess it wouldnt hurt anything to put some RTV on the gasket itself, for a better seal.......

I havent started the job yet...... I just went and took a look...... Ill pick those up before I start.......

Are there any other OTC flushes that work good........? Although, I am gonna have to order from Joe anyway.....

[elwesso]

I found this about removing sludge and varnish......

http://www.fordfestiva.com/ser...t.htm

"For severe cases, then the proper procedure to remove it starts by draining away the engine oil and removing the valve cover and exhaust connector (downpipe). Do not loosen oil pan at this time. With the engine cold, use a wire brush and kerosene (do this OUTSIDE and NEVER use gasoline) to clean the rocker arm shaft, cylinder head, making sure that the oil drainback holes are not blocked with sludge. Use of a wire brush and the subsequent dislodging of particles is fine as this all flow down into the oil pan. Make sure you do not damage the valve stem seals with the brush."

Do you guys agree with this process???

[Q451990]

Not only no, but HELL no! That's a last resort type measure... do you have a specific reason to think that your car has been grossly neglected in the oil change department?

I'd use something very gentle over time, like half a can of BG Quick Cleen with a fresh oil change, drive for a while until the oil starts to look dirty. Change oil and filter again, use the other half of cleaner... then move up to a full can and repeat. Trying to clean it too fast can result in dislodging too much stuff at one time and clogging up the pick-up screen. Then it's time for an oil pan drop (very complex) and possible engine failure due to a loss of oil pressure.

Heath

P.S. Once you pull the rocker covers, post some pics. Everything should have a light amber or gold-ish color. Here's mine with 48K earlier in the month.

[Q451990]

A typical higher mileage engine (105K) with what I assume were average oil change habits, nothing stellar, but not terrible... This is my 97 Truck that was a Terminx fleet truck. A little darker, but not terrible. With a higher mileage engine, I'd expect it to look more like this.

Heath

[elwesso]

Ill be sure to post pics of the valve covers when I get to it........ But I looked inside the oil filler cap and it looks pretty gummy...... Like brown poop looking stuff everywhere...... The previous owner said he changed it every 5k or so...... Which is OK, I guess.....

Later tonight Ill post a picture of the inside of the filler cap.......