Might be worth doing periodic oil tests to see how the oil is holding up.

Some of that stuff is rated for well over 15k miles.

joa:

This is just my 2 cents worth of info. Once upon a time I removed the top valve cover for my little nissan, and I was amazed at the amount of small fine particulate matter (which amounted to fine sand), that was mixed in the oil, given that I religiously do my oil changes at 3,000 miles without fail while also changing my oil filters at the same time. I swore from that day that I would never ever mess with the 3,000 miles formula---I normally change her oil at 2,600 miles---I could sell the old oil and get some pennies back. BTW, my little nissan is now on its merry good way to 250,000 miles and still chugging along with the original engine, original manual transmission, third clutch, 2nd radiator, 2nd fuel pump, etc. And it loves to rev as well---my third gear can do 75 miles per hour. And she doesn't smoke or burn oil till this day.

And, I am extending that swear to my G-35 Coupe as well. I don't care what type of oil I use, 3,000 miles is the magic number for me, especially now that I use a less restrictive air flow (JWT Pop Charger), which will certainly allow slightly more particulate matter than the OEM air filter, which may not do much harm to my car unless I refuse to change my oil regularly.

The particulate matter I speak of, is so small and can't be readily seen with th naked eye unless they collect somewhere in your engine, in mass. The particulate matter is like fine sand---this is what damages engines when oil filters are not changed regularly or oil changes are done with less frequency.

New oil added with regularity is like new blood in a car. It is isn't the freshness of the oil that matters, as much as the dirt and foreign matter in the oil---most can't see the dirt in the oil and filter and so they think the oil is still fresh. I have seen the dirt with my own two eyes, and no one can tell me otherwise anymore. Any car will run great with old oil that has been filtered excellently for dirt and particulate matter. Even if the oil looks brand new after 3,000 miles, so long as it has been used, it probably has dirt and particulate floating around the oil filters and in the oil.

What I am saying here is that I am big beleiver in 3,000 mile oil changes whether or not I use an oil filter and oil made from Heaven or not. Mobil 1 5W - 30 won't be any different for me. I use the oil to allow the engine to move more freely and generate 1 - 2 more horsepower, and not to shirk from doing my oil changes every 3,000 miles. Just my 2 cents. $35 worth of oil every 3,000 miles or two months in my case, is not excessive for my G, as i routinely flog the hell out of the car---except for constraints such as ethanol-gas blend crap and cops everywhere trying to give me a ticket and make my life harder than it already is.

Jacko3 wrote:joa:

This is just my 2 cents worth of info. Once upon a time I removed the top valve cover for my little nissan, and I was amazed at the amount of small fine particulate matter (which amounted to fine sand), that was mixed in the oil, given that I religiously do my oil changes at 3,000 miles without fail while also changing my oil filters at the same time. I swore from that day that I would never ever mess with the 3,000 miles formula---I normally change her oil at 2,600 miles---I could sell the old oil and get some pennies back. BTW, my little nissan is now on its merry good way to 250,000 miles and still chugging along with the original engine, original manual transmission, third clutch, 2nd radiator, 2nd fuel pump, etc. And it loves to rev as well---my third gear can do 75 miles per hour. And she doesn't smoke or burn oil till this day.

And, I am extending that swear to my G-35 Coupe as well. I don't care what type of oil I use, 3,000 miles is the magic number for me, especially now that I use a less restrictive air flow (JWT Pop Charger), which will certainly allow slightly more particulate matter than the OEM air filter, which may not do much harm to my car unless I refuse to change my oil regularly.

The particulate matter I speak of, is so small and can't be readily seen with th naked eye unless they collect somewhere in your engine, in mass. The particulate matter is like fine sand---this is what damages engines when oil filters are not changed regularly or oil changes are done with less frequency.

New oil added with regularity is like new blood in a car. It is isn't the freshness of the oil that matters, as much as the dirt and foreign matter in the oil---most can't see the dirt in the oil and filter and so they think the oil is still fresh. I have seen the dirt with my own two eyes, and no one can tell me otherwise anymore. Any car will run great with old oil that has been filtered excellently for dirt and particulate matter. Even if the oil looks brand new after 3,000 miles, so long as it has been used, it probably has dirt and particulate floating around the oil filters and in the oil.

What I am saying here is that I am big beleiver in 3,000 mile oil changes whether or not I use an oil filter and oil made from Heaven or not. Mobil 1 5W - 30 won't be any different for me. I use the oil to allow the engine to move more freely and generate 1 - 2 more horsepower, and not to shirk from doing my oil changes every 3,000 miles. Just my 2 cents. $35 worth of oil every 3,000 miles or two months in my case, is not excessive for my G, as i routinely flog the hell out of the car---except for constraints such as ethanol-gas blend crap and cops everywhere trying to give me a ticket and make my life harder than it already is.

Sounds like there is something wrong with your intake Jacko.

Also, as I previously stated. An oil analysis will do a hell of a lot more than finding a "magic" number. The cute thing about changing your oil based on mileage is that the number of revs the engine has experienced in 3000 miles can vary EXTREMELY.

Amsoil also sell multi-filter setups to deal with excess particulates, so... yeah.

The real issue here (above and beyond particulates, which should be easy to keep out) is oil shearing/break down.

Most high quality synthetics will not break down as quickly as their conventional counterparts. As such, changing your oil at 3000 miles when it still has plenty of life left in it is like saying only the first 2-3 gallons of gas you pump are good for you car, so you pump 10 gallons and dump 7-8 because it's "bad" gas.

Sometimes I want to hook "him" up like in the Matrix and upload some real data into "his" head.

Sentientbydesign wrote:
Sometimes I want to hook "him" up like in the Matrix and upload some real data into "his" head.

Actually the Matrix was one of my best movies. Question is, which pill do I take: the red or the blue pill?

Jacko3 wrote:
Actually the Matrix was one of my best movies. Question is, which pill do I take: the red or the blue pill?

This one is available too...

I hear you Jacko3 and I know what your saying. I may do some testing as the mileage increases. Over on the previous board this particular oil guru ran Amsoil oil and a Amsoil filter for 10,000 miles. He tested it when he changed it in his 3.5 and felt he could have easily gone further if he wanted to. I think we all have to remember that every engine is different even if it is the same make of car and testing is important. Also, in no way am I telling people what oil to use or when to change their oil, that is always a personal decision.

Sentient:

Is that a well packaged horse pill?

No. It's a suicide pill

I understand what you guys are saying, but you've all got it WRONG!!!

I use M1 Syn and change between 3K and 4K when it's convenient.The oil is usually much darker by then, so I change it. Maybe overkill, but those engines are SO expensive!!(Oh yeah, I do it myself. Been doing so for 30 yrs now)

I think you should do what you feel comfortable doing.But, if you are new to automobiles, then my way is really best!

SVTCOBRA wrote:I understand what you guys are saying, but you've all got it WRONG!!!

I use M1 Syn and change between 3K and 4K when it's convenient.The oil is usually much darker by then, so I change it. Maybe overkill, but those engines are SO expensive!!(Oh yeah, I do it myself. Been doing so for 30 yrs now)

I think you should do what you feel comfortable doing.But, if you are new to automobiles, then my way is really best!

Huh?

I'm advising that these guys with a tier 4 or 5 synthetic and do periodic oil analysis to verify when the oil needs to be replaced and you're telling me that's wrong?

I have a REALLY tough time finding a Tier 4+ oil, best I could find was Eneos syn for 34$/case, but I'm pretty sure its T3 not 4

Sentientbydesign wrote:
Huh?

I'm advising that these guys with a tier 4 or 5 synthetic and do periodic oil analysis to verify when the oil needs to be replaced and you're telling me that's wrong?

No Nate, I was just

An oil analysis is also the best way to find out if there is a future engine problem on the horizon.

oh. ok.

I have no idea why anyone would own a G-35 Coupe and then complain about the oil they use--perhaps they shouldn't be driving the G-35 coupe to begin with. If it isn't pessimism that will cause someone to describe synthetic oil as "half-***", then I don't know what is. Perhaps, they know better than Mobil, and their laboratory equipment. Go figure!

I hate really stupid and obnoxious comments.

You having fun trolling, Jacko?

No pissing matches here. I have had questionable experience with Mobil 1 and now that there is proof that it is inferior to other synthetics, what better time to switch?

I use m1 in my work truck 03 chevy went 365,000 miles be for i had to rebuild...All those miles in less than 3 years. I also used it in my 06 g35 when we did The Great American Run..I to DRIVE HARD first car to vegas!! average speed 82 mph. Lots of 120mph to 140mph.. Also use it in my 2 other cars, Normally change it in between 3500 and 4000. I have a brother who does all the researching he's a die hard chevy fan using mobile gas and oil as long as i can remember. Iam sure purple is better from what i here.. But i also think m1 is just fine!!!

I don't doubt that M1 is a decent oil, but for the cost/qt which is like $6-$7, you could spend $2/qt more and get a tier 4 or tier 5 oil that lasts longer and performs better.

Sentientbydesign wrote:You having fun trolling, Jacko?

No pissing matches here. I have had questionable experience with Mobil 1 and now that there is proof that it is inferior to other synthetics, what better time to switch?

I thought Beancooker told you two to knock it off. I'd suggest the both of you stop responding to the other until everything cools down.

rn79870 wrote:
I thought Beancooker told you two to knock it off. I'd suggest the both of you stop responding to the other until everything cools down.

The reply you quoted was from before Noah made any comments.

My recent reply was to Team Punisher

Nate and Jacko, I said it in another thread, and in case you didn't read it there; One more peep at eachother, and you will go on "vacation" for a week. KNOCK THIS CHILDISH CRAP OFF!!!

Jacko, I tried to email you last night. You need to add a working email address to your profile. Having a functioning email address is part of the "terms of service" you agreed to when you registered. You can set it to private, and only supermods and admin will have access to it.

I haven't and I don't appreciate the insinuation.

Sentientbydesign wrote:I haven't and I don't appreciate the insinuation.

I switched to M1 over Memorial Day weekend to see how well synthetics work. After I did that, I realized that with Royal Purple, you don't need to flush the engine as it is compatible with other synthetic and mineral oils...not usually the case with true synthetics. So depending on how well M1 works, I may go up the ladder to Royal Purple.

gwoods wrote:meh, its not just the oil its how often you change the oil.....

I'll stick with Mobil 1 and 3750 mile oil changes using Nissan filter

.

That is the best way!!!! I agree entirely.

Z

UOA's (used oil analysis) are your friend.Know of the UOA thread on that 350Z forum well.Mobil 1 has changed. It's still an okay Synth just not as good as it used to be. There're better oils out there for our VQ's at approx same cost per UOA analysis on that 350Z thread.A friends recent UOA with M1 was okay, but his Tribologist wasn't real impressed with it and suggested using a different oil.