Hope-full first Drift car.

[catnipple]

Hello everyone,

When I was younger I spent many nights drooling over the awesome episodes of InitialD, an animated series, I am sure many of you are familiar with.
Naturally it sparked my interest in drifting, and the transformation from DSM fan, to a fan of any and all imported FR platforms begun.
After tinkering on two different n/a 1g's, one 1g gs-t, and one n/a 2g, i was finally came across a clean/ ghetto z32 that i was lucky enough to swap my second gen eclipse for.

After being young and dumb and learning the hard way a couple times, I got rid of my z32 to start a project I can drift legally on a track.

I had originally intended on swapping my ls1 into the s13 coupe I picked up from a friend, but I came across another shell (s13 hatch) that I decided would be a more suitable candidate to accept the ls1.




This is the start of the very slow going process of building my first drift car. With high hopes, and a mind filled with countless hours of research, I ended up using the money I had acquired from selling my z32/old ls1 to pick this beaut up from Hawks Third Gen.



After months of being super busy at work I finally got some time n tore into it to freshen it up a bit.









Here's a list of what all I did to the new LS-

TSP 224/228r 114lsa cam

ARP cam bolts, and head studs

Cheverolet performance MLS head gaskets

COMP Magnum Chromoly pushrods

SLP double roller timing chain

SLP oil pump

GTO oil pan

Improved racing GTO oil pan baffle

Ported/ polished casting 241 heads, with lunati gold dual valve springs

and Tick Performance knock sensor upgrades

I had also purchased a Chasebays s13 Ls1 harness, and some other parts to hopefully make the swap easier, like a Sikky 32mm sway bar,and the Wilwood CMC kit from Sikky as well as their power steering lines.

For mounts I will be using the kit from Hooker Headers, that used Creative steel C5 Corvette motor mounts and a Prothane bushing for their T56 S chassis crossmember.

The only modifications to the shell i have done so far, would include installing a Walbro 255 LHP fuel pump, gutting the interior, and installing the Sikky front sway bar. I have also bashed out the transmission tunnel a bit to clear the T56, and cut out the inner fenders to prevent rubbing when she gets low.

The shell already had projector headlights, z32 front calipers with stainless steel braided lines, z32 BMC, drilled/slotted rotors, and tension rods (that I am unsure of the brand) installed when I picked it up.



The rotors it came with on the front already have both 4x114.3 and 5x114.3 lug patterns, so i will be purchasing the 5 lug hub kit from Ichiba soon after she runs (assuming that things will work out).



Just to clear things up before I get too far into it: This will definitely NOT be a very clean build as I am on a budget, and will be trying to get it together as soon as possible to have it ready for the 2014 season.

Anybody can bash on me as much as they want about it, but I am merely trying to build a fun, easy-to-drift s13 that i can put through hell learning how to drift, and not feel bad about it.

- Pretty can always come later.

[breadbox]

So far so good.
A ton of 5lug sets pop up from sponsors on here. I bought two sets off here for amazing prices and the one installed S14 set is still rolling smoothe, the other hasn't been installed yet.
advertisers-marketplace.html

Really like the name.

[danshaz82]

just make it look rad and drive it hard!

[catnipple]

Thanks guys.

For now I'm mainly just trying to get it together, and running.

I'll be going for a "ricer" kinda look when I get to that point, (including a big, abs gt type wing my buddy had laying around) to mess with peoples heads a little.

Then maybe work a little more on proper aesthetics with my spare coupe, if I need it later down the road.

[catnipple]

I was originally planning on using a Spec clutch, but the guys at Hawks Third Gen convinced me to try this out..



It's a Ram Power Grip HD stage 4 clutch, with a Ram billet steel flywheel and I also ordered a new slave cylinder while i was at it.

For clutch hydraulics, I went with Sikky again, and ordered their wilwood CMC kit.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

You call this a budget build?!?!?!

[catnipple]

You call this a budget build?!?!?!

I know, I know.... It is kinda getting away from Me a little. I am just afraid to go too cheap n regretting it later, especially with this build.

FWIW, I did score the heads and cam for $400 from an Albuquerque local! I just made sure to get the heads re-decked to be safe.
I also got the shell I am using through a straight trade for a z32 shell I was never going to use. I had originally picked it up for $400 as well, so I thought i traded up considering all the usable parts the s13 came with.
I am trying to save (and trade up) where I can.

[catnipple]

Here's a few MIA pictures I found..

The stock GTO oil pan baffle/ windage tray.





.. and the new.

GTO windage tray (not necessarily needed).


The Improved Racing GTO oil pan baffle.


Here's a shot of the trap doors


For me, at the time, the GTO pan with the Improved Racing baffle seemed like a pretty good alternative to using the Sikky kit.

Here's a shot at my first experience using a jig saw, and cutting out inner fenders..

[Chaluska]

I am really liking this build!

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Just out of curiosity, why'd you cut the inner fenders?

[MissMollyAnnax0]

Just out of curiosity, why'd you cut the inner fenders?

a little confused also.

[catnipple]

I cut the inner fenders to prevent rubbing with wide wheels up front, and modified knuckles for more steering angle.

I was planning on running pretty wide eighteen inch wheels, and lowering the car quite a bit, but my situation has changed, n I'll just be running what I have laying around for now.
Though I'm not gonna be lowering it as much as I originally intended, I am still planning on eventually running very aggressive wheels, and a high angle steering kit.

[catnipple]

Came across some free time today, and put in a little work with the LS.

Pressed in the little plug where the original dip stick tube was placed.

You can see in the picture, to the left is the plug in the block, and further to the right is the hole for the new dip stick in the GTO pan.



Dirty i know..

Replaced the old Slave cylinder..







Installed the new Ram Flywheel, disk, and pressure plate with ARP pressure plate/flywheel bolts.







So, i got back on the Creative Steel site, and found that they actually make swap specific LS1 s13/14 urethane motor mounts.
I originally ordered the Corvette C5 ultramounts, because they are what you'll be directed to by the link on the Holley site.

Here's a comparison of the two.



Pretty much the same exact size.

You can use the swap specific Ultra Mounts with the Hooker mount kit, or either of the C5 Ultra Mounts (solid, or urethane), though the swap specific mounts are actually priced lower than the urethane C5 mounts.

[catnipple]

Today i pulled the Slave cylinder back out n replaced the fittings with the new Sikky parts.









This is where i mounted the bleeder line on the T56..



Here's a picture of one side of the Hooker / CreativeSteel mounts



I also installed the Wilwood CMC.

[MissMollyAnnax0]

I'll be going for a "ricer" kinda look when I get to that point, (including a big, abs gt type wing my buddy had laying around) to mess with peoples heads a little.

haha, I love this mentality! It gets irritating always listening to everyone's s*** talking. Lots of jealous people who think I should have stuck with my auto vert. Sooooo, for the time being I've decided to let my friend Melissa choose my plasti dip paint scheme. Plasti dip black with pink plasti dip racing stripes with hello kitty bow decal Anyway, pics of the wing or it didn't happen. Also, love the way your car is coming along. Please post start up video when you get it running

[catnipple]

Yeah, I never hear the end of it. Especially any time i go to town in the Z.. So I'll kinda be beating these haters at their own game with a "rice burning " twist.

I'd definitely like to see how the dip comes out!!

As for pictures if the wing, I'll snap a few when I get back to the shop n post it up.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I bet those slave cylinder suck the big one when they blow. Gotta pull the trans to change them out? And I'm sure they piss brake fluid all over the clutch and flywheel, so those have to come out too.

[catnipple]

Yes sir you are correct. That's why I figured I'd get a new one to buy a bit more time..
The clutch was a little pricey, so a new slave cylinder, rear main seal n rear cover gasket were on the list.

[catnipple]

Took delivery on these shiny bits today..

[catnipple]

Today I did a quick test fit with the engine alone to figure where i needed to notch out the cross member.





Here's how it fit after the cut.

Passenger side:


Driver side:


Cut up some 2"x1/4" strap to start reinforcement.

I had to grind it down about an eighth of an inch to fit snug inside the remaining upper and lower lips of the cross member.




I only got a few pieces cut before i had to leave, but its better than nothing. I will have to notch more out on the passenger side, but I'm waiting till i get a final test fit with the T56 mated, and the transmission cross member bolted up before the final cut.

I plan on completely enclosing the cut area, and using the same 2" strap along the under side of the cross member for a bit more reinforcement. Also a couple more from there to underneath the radiator for more rigidity.



Also will be figuring something out for a skid plate, as the oil pan sits pretty much even with the cross member.
I wouldn't want to crack my oil pan flying off track from some violent understeer (Knock on wood).

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Looks like its coming along nicely!
That cross-member gets THIN!

[catnipple]

Yeah it does get pretty thin. A little scary, but i plan on it being stronger than the original piece once finished.

I only had a few hours to work on the s13 today, and without a welder in the shop at the moment (and MIA bell housing bolts), i just decided to do a bit more notching on the passenger side, and install a few parts i had laying around for a while.





NRG short hub, Sparco QR, and a cheap ebay wheel.. The Sparco QR has a little play, so I'll most likely be replacing it with NRG as i have had a great experience with their products on the Z.

I also installed a DIF solid aluminum steering bushing to replace the worn rubber stock piece.
I previously ordered a "Stance" brand bushing (or so it was advertised), but it did not work out at all. The machined holes that you're supposed to press or hammer the spacers onto were much too big, so i went with the DIF bushing and everything went smoothly.

DIF on the left, "Stance" on the right



Installed DIF bushing on the shaft (very poor quality picture)

[catnipple]

Money's suuuuper tight at the moment.. PUMPED to get this project rolling again.
Sorry to every one for the absence..




Ichiba five lug front conversion. painted the calipers (Duplicolor Torque n Teal engine enamel)



Currently tearing apart one of my old z32 shells for rear hubs, so i should have five lug in the rear as well in the next week.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

What's the ETA til its drivable?

[catnipple]

I still need to run fuel lines wiring n I need a drive shaft radiator and a tune, so with money being so tight I'm just hoping to have her driving by June.. all depending on if can afford these parts.. Wish me luck!

[crakin240]

After notching the cross member and sealing it back up, how do you correct the compromised integrity of the support? That seems to be an issue or am I over thinking it?