Holset on RB20 notes

[rcrdps]

Just a few things for the search engines:

Oil inlet on the Hx35 is 12mm x 1.5. You can buy a banjo bolt that will fit and also fit in the rb20 banjo fitting. Thus, you don't need custom oil lines. Just that $15 banjo bolt. Also take out the banjo bolt in the block, and drill it to .100 or so. You'll need to heat it up and let it cool slowly to take the temper out of it so you can drill it.

Oil drain is just like the RB20, except it will be further out. So you have to loosen the rubber hose so it can slide out, and angle slightly more upward.

For the water lines, I took the line off of the block, and routed the return line back to it using the block's banjo bolt. This is not a good idea since the return line really needs a larger banjo bolt and it is very hard to line up the smaller one inside the banjo fitting. It is leaking slightly. What you should do is clamp off the return line, then weld it shut. Put a 16mm x 1.5 bolt in the block to block the feed. Cut if off real short so it doesn't hit anything inside the block. I already have the bolt. Just haven't felt like draining my water again.

You can get away with a single 1/2 inch spacer on the T3 flange if you route your compressor outlet downward. If you have A/C or steering lines down there, forget it. You'll then need two 1/2inch spacers, and you can run the outlet upward like the original turbo.

The turbo manifold studs are 10mm x 1.5. Don't let the outside fool you. The outside is 10mm x 1.25. But you need 10mm x 1.5 to screw into the exhaust manifold. In my case, I bought 10 x 1.4 x 50mm bolts, and cut the heads off to use as studs. They barely fit. You really need them to be 60mm long. If you're buying real studs, make sure the total length is around 60mm. To remove the old studs, heat the manifold, and grip the studs with visegrips. Hammer the visegrips. This is more likely to break the stud free, than twist it off. I had one really stubborn stud, that wouldn't come off even when I went and bought the biggest vise grips I could find. For this stud, I screwed a nut on the end of it, and welded it there. Then I heated the manifold, and removed the nut/stud with a standard wrench.

You can only use the internal wastegate if you're looking for 18+ psi. Even if you change out the actuator, it will still only get down to 18psi. In my case, I have bumped static fuel pressure to 60psi so that I have enough fuel for 18psi of boost. That will have to do till I buy 440cc injectors or sell the car. Anyone want to buy it? It's in the classifieds.

Don't fully remove the lip on the compressor outlet. You'll kinda need it. Without it, your coupler will likely blow off. In my case, I had to go buy a T-bolt clamp from a diesel shop. $15 for that puppy. It holds though. The rest of my connections have lips to help grab the hose, so I can get away with standar clamps.



Gene