Hmm... brake problems

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APCdude
Posts: 96
Joined: Wed Mar 03, 2004 11:39 am

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First of all I'd just like to say hello (1st post). I've viewed these forums for some time now but have never posted.

That being said, about 2 months ago I was goofing off with a buddy and ended up having a minor mishap with a curb. I probably hit it at about 20-25, and the front driver's side hopped up far enough on the curb that the front passenger side wheel had a small scratch around the tire under the car.

Fortunately, there was no body damage at all. Under inspection, I discovered my tension rod snapped where it bolts to the assembly. No biggie, I guess, so I spend a small portion of what's left of my account (being a student, it tends to stay relatively empty). $100 bucks and 2 weeks later, I get down to replace the rod, and find the ENTIRE ASSEMBLY was bent/snapped. The tension rod, the lower control arm, and the tie rod bolt. Alright, bad spot of luck I presume, throw down another 170 for those parts, 2 weeks later I hook up and bolt on everything in there.

So, I drive it to get it aligned and am thinking that the brake pedal is awfully hard. Must just be the alignment eh? So the alignment goes fine, nothing else really got damaged except for a scratch on the underside. Take it back home, drive it to a class the next day for the first time in a while. By then, it was obvious something was wrong with the brake system. So I inspect the lines and the brakes, to find nothing wrong. I get online and discover on the forums here people have had this problem before, and that the brake booster was at fault. Alright, I suppose, throw another 100 down at Autozone and pick up the booster. Remove the old one, install the new, reconnect the cylinder and bleed all 4 brakes.

Then I take it for a test drive... and the shifter is stuck!!! (I drive an auto.)I don't know the purpose of the little L-shaped lever in front of the shift knob, but pulling that let me shift it like normal (but it needed to be pulled up every time I desired to change gears). Also, the brakes are on even when not pushing on the pedal, and it stops really hard on just a tap.

So, I figure I just didnt adjust the brake booster rod sufficiently with the brake pedal. However, the FSM, from what I can tell, does not explain how to adjust that without undoing the entire booster from the firewall, which would a great amount of extra time.

So my question is, from the symptoms listed above, does anybody know how to adjust the rod that connects from the booster to the pedal, and/or the lengths on each side it is meant to protrude?And if adjusting the rod doesnt fix the shifter problem, does anybody have a clue what may be wrong with the shifter?

Thanks in advance!


NismoRb20S13
Posts: 239
Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2004 9:27 pm
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Im guessing that curb was what is wrong with it

240 + curb = $$$$

FortWorthS13
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Dec 25, 2003 10:19 pm

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All i can tell you about the measurments is that for your car the pedal height adjusted to factory specs from floor to top of pedal should be 186-196mm. Sorry cant help more


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