Higher capacity oil pan needed for my build?

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Jabberwocky
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Joined: Mon May 23, 2011 9:42 pm
Car: 08 Subaru WRX
Location: Taneytown, MD

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Like the subject says I am wondering if I need a larger capacity oil pan for my KA-T build. I have been searching (nico and google) for the last week or so but haven't came up with any answers. I have found xcessive's KA pan but Im not trying to spend that much on one.

I am using Eagle rods, Arias pistons, BC v3 cams with BC springs, retainers, etc, and a Precision 6031 59mm .63 ar turbo, and the motor will most likely be seeing boost upwards of 20psi. The car will be a weekend ride and visit the drag stip occasionally. I've read that when adding a turbo you need to add more oil to compensate, so can I just add a little extra to the stock pan without jacking the pressure in my crankcase, or is a bigger one necessary?

I've never fabricated a pan, but am capable of cutting/welding and fabbing one up if anyone has done this before and could provide me with a little design guidance. If you're confident in your skills and would be willing to help mod my stock pan I could send it out and pay you as well...


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superDorifto
Posts: 1306
Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2005 1:13 pm
Car: 1997 Eclipse Spyder - AWD/5spd swap in progress
1995 Q45 - 5spd swap in progress
1984 200sx hatch(KA-t swap) - 355WHP
1991/1993/1995/1997 240s - Dead
1982 200sx hatch - fixed/scrapped
Location: CT

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Its not really a question of volume...even adding a huge turbo and boosting the s*** out of it isn't going to "overtemp" your oil.

You enemy is lubrication, starvation, cooling, coking, and cleanliness....in that order.

Are you rebuilding the motor with a new oil pump? you should be....
Does you turbo have a properly routed oil return line (and an orifice if needed)?...it needs it.
Have you considered the possible need for an oil cooler? you might not need more oil, just cooler oil....
After you shut off your car hot oil will sit in the turbo..coking, and potentially blowing the turbo, DO you have a turbo timer?
Is the PCV system working correctly to keep contaminants out of you oil via blow-by?... solvents and oil suck together.

Race cars need additional capacity due to the forces acting on the fluid in the pan...sharp turns and high G forces in corners, potentially moving the available fluid away from the sump pick up...starving the pump...

Are you going to be doing a lot of High G force cornering?...

You dont need more oil, you need to control the factors that will make your turbo/motor fail....

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Jabberwocky
Posts: 159
Joined: Mon May 23, 2011 9:42 pm
Car: 08 Subaru WRX
Location: Taneytown, MD

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superDorifto wrote:Are you rebuilding the motor with a new oil pump? you should be....
Does you turbo have a properly routed oil return line (and an orifice if needed)?...it needs it.
Have you considered the possible need for an oil cooler? you might not need more oil, just cooler oil....
After you shut off your car hot oil will sit in the turbo..coking, and potentially blowing the turbo, DO you have a turbo timer?
Is the PCV system working correctly to keep contaminants out of you oil via blow-by?... solvents and oil suck together.

Are you going to be doing a lot of High G force cornering?...
Yes I have a new oil pump. Everything on the engine will be new besides the block, head, intake mani, oil pan and timing covers.
I am using JGY steel braided feed and return lines, with a fitting I welded into the oil pan.
I have not bought one, but I have considered the need for an oil cooler I just haven't researched it yet. Hopefully between NICO and ka-t.org (where I find most answers to my questions) I can decide if one will be necessary.
I do have a turbo timer, picked up an HKS unit from the classifieds on this site.
The PCV system should be alright. I just tore down the intake manifold to clean and paint it and ended up putting it back together using new vaccum line and radiator hose.
It might occasionally see a hard corner, but it will primarily be a straight line car. My Spec V is what I would take to track days.

Thanks for your help, its greatly appreciated!

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scotty-2-forty
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Car: 1996 Nissan 240SX SE KA24DET
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I have been using the stock pan modified with oil return and oil temp sensor bungs since 2003 and have never had any oil starvation or overheating problems. Mine's a street driver with the occasional 1/4 mile romp. My first question would be what are you planning to use the car for?

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AZhitman
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All good advice above.

The only concessions I made (aside from the ones mentioned above) were a custom made crank scraper and a windage tray.

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Jabberwocky
Posts: 159
Joined: Mon May 23, 2011 9:42 pm
Car: 08 Subaru WRX
Location: Taneytown, MD

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scotty-2-forty wrote:I have been using the stock pan modified with oil return and oil temp sensor bungs since 2003 and have never had any oil starvation or overheating problems. Mine's a street driver with the occasional 1/4 mile romp. My first question would be what are you planning to use the car for?
A car I can take out and play with on the weekends, take down to OC cruise week, carlisle, etc, and take to the strip every now and again.

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scotty-2-forty
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Car: 1996 Nissan 240SX SE KA24DET
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Jabberwocky wrote:A car I can take out and play with on the weekends, take down to OC cruise week, carlisle, etc, and take to the strip every now and again.
You really should be fine. :yesnod

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superDorifto
Posts: 1306
Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2005 1:13 pm
Car: 1997 Eclipse Spyder - AWD/5spd swap in progress
1995 Q45 - 5spd swap in progress
1984 200sx hatch(KA-t swap) - 355WHP
1991/1993/1995/1997 240s - Dead
1982 200sx hatch - fixed/scrapped
Location: CT

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BTW sorry if I came off like a d!ck, all of the info that I posted is in the stickies/read me first section at the top of the KA-T page.

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lexcrob
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Joined: Mon Sep 22, 2008 7:38 pm
Car: I get a different ride faster than I could update this.
Location: Clarksville, TN

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I dont know if you could get a definative answer as far as if you need and oil cooler. Super street did a fact or fiction on oil temps a while back and on engine temps - for make optimum power of course.

Problem is i forgot the temp. 194 i wanna say 180? Nutz anyways you see what im getting at not to HOT not to COLD there is an extreme on both ends that would suck ponies.

WIKI dry sump i did the other day learned alot pretty good read. ^ as far as the G forces and all that.
-not that you need to go that way its for like full blow nasty ....grip monsters.

Good luck on the build sounds like its gonna be pretty fast.


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