First, my information:

Most is in my signature. 1994 Q45 with 137K miles. I drive her daily, and want to keep the gas mileage realtively good. I would like to take her to the drag strip a couple times a month. I would like to trim a full second off my quarter mile times (I want to give the stock Mustangs, Camaros, and Firebirds a run for their money)

Now, the torque converter questions:

1. Who has them?

2. What is the stall speed?

3. Was it worth the money?

4. Did it improve 60 foot times or off-the-line performance?

5. What stall speed do you wish you had?

6. Where did you get yours?

Non-Torque Converter Questions:

1. Should I go with a 1990-1993 tranny while I am at it?

2. Where should I get a well-built tranny, that I intend to abuse in the 1/4 mile?

3. Would the TCU need to be changed, if I went with a 1990-1993 tranny?

(By the way, I know this is a tranny question in the engine forum, but you guys seem to be more speed oriented than the gereral forum and Q45 forum.)

Don't know the answer except levelten (mixed reports) and Jamesmost.

One thing I do know is thathigher stall speed means more shear which means higher ATF temperatures, so get the biggest cooler you can fit under the hood.
Modified by maxnix at 6:33 PM 8/11/2006

I'm getting my stock converter re-stalled to flash at about 2500 rpm as we speak. any local tranny or torque converter shop will be able to do it.

ok jeff first thing you need to do is read posts by TRANSGUY, i think thats his screen name... He goes into all kinds of detail.

Heres my opinion from experience to each one.. First, you wont take a second off your 1/4 mile times with just a trans upgrade, no matter what you do (assuming you keep the same trans)... its not gonna happen, seriously..... now that we have that out of the way..........

1. I do, who else matters 2. about 28003. Dont know if it was worth the money since i didnt buy it, but i like it.4. Slightly, but i have yet to drive a fresh one.5. Higher... When james was asking these SAME questions (hint hint) I told him I had 2800 and encouraged him to go 3500 or so, he declined and youll see him posting that he wish he had a higher stall... Ideally you want the stall speed to be just below the peak torque of the motor (which is about 4000 RPM)6. Mine is a level 10 rebuild.

1. Its only like 10% difference in 1st gear (2.8 vs 2.5 give or take)... Its a difference, but its not a huge difference.... however if your getting the trans completely overhauled, might as well go with the more ideal gearing.2. Id go with IPT over L10 personally, same price but it seems like a better product from what ive read on other forums that get rebuilt JATCO trans.3. Negative, we put 94 TCUs on 9092 Q all the time.... Will be just dandy..

Some closing thoughts... LIke i said earlier, your not gonna cut 1 second off your times (unless you want to go from 16.5 to 15.5 )... assume you get your Q running where it should be (15.1-14.9, stock with only ECU), i think 14.5 14.4 is about the best your gonna do with any trans mods you do.... It doesnt really add HP, it just makes the HP come sooner....

You DEFINITELY will NOT increase horsepower by using a higer stall, only way you could REMOTELY increase horsepower is to use a billet TC, and thats only because they weigh less..... similar deal with those crank pulleys and lightweight flywheels (on MT car), except lightweight flywheels are much better!

Basically what they do with the level 10 rebuilds is take the stock torque converter and redo the insides to make it stall higher..... They do not change the weak one way clutches inside (which is fine for a stock application, but its no good for big power, exhibit A, wes stinson)... The billet TCs are built from scratch, and are a LOT more efficient and will hold up to big power great....

with a 4 speed transmission with granny gears, you can only do so much. by the time you get done with the best setup you can get..... IPT upgrade- $4000 (not including buying a core), billet TC- 800, fluid-100, your looking at almost 6 grand just for the stuff, and then you ahve to have it installed. The only way you could cut some corners, if you dont plan on running nitrous or TURBO, you could just skip the IPT rebuild, get a valve body so it shifts like a fully built trans, and then do the billet TC... Instead of 6 grand, itd be closer to about 1500 + install + misc (500 for the valve body, 800 for the TC)....

Another quick thing to think about is you wont get as good fuel mileage with a rebuilt/restalled (whenever i say rebuilt TC in this thread i mean restalled as well) TC because the rebuidls are genreally not as efficient on lockup as stock is. however a billet TC is probably MORE efficent on lockup (and non lockup) than a stock converter....

OVERALL, i woudl say its a good mod, but it wont cut a lot of time off your 1/4 mile time. It does however make the car a lot more fun to drive, because the dead spots really go away especailly if you have the ECU as well....

Thanks, Wes. Do you have any idea what the trans fluid temps are running in your car now?

There is a trans shop real close to my office. Would I be safe in asking for a billet converter that was made for the Z32?

I will do some searching on the Transguy posts. I recall he did have some good information.

I am not going to spend $4,000 for a rebuilt tranny. That is highway robbery, unless it is built to withstand 1,000 HP, and I don't need that (yet). A billet TC, a reworked valve body, and a bigger tranny cooler should help some.

I think the TC swap will make the biggest difference in my 1/4 mile times. I am loosing some time in the 1-2 shift, as well as a good bit off the line, just getting her moving. Traction is not too much of an issue. The 275's are relatively sticky, and wheelspin is minimal.

I need to spool the RPM's faster. She seems to take longer to reach redline than Layla did.

The car was running way lean with Robert's ECU tuning. I plan to tweak his program a bit on the Dyno, as soon as I can get the files. There are some NISSAN tuners in the area, and I think their romulator stuff might work on my ECU. I might just replace all the injectors with a larger size for the heck of it, to see if it makes a difference.

Better exhaust flow + better intake flow + more fuel should mean more power.

I have the same questions as you. I did a little searching and see that a billet TC on average knocks off about 3/4 of a second in the 1/4 mile.

The Q45 suffers real bad on take off. Heavy car with long gears.

I plan on doing a 125shot of zex real soon. I would go with IPT for tranny upgrades.

Billet TC, strong IPT cluthes, shift kit.........and spray thru the shifts.

If you are really worried about getting off the line, look at the 4.08 NA Z32 rear end

I had 2 high stalls made for my car, one of them was just the original one pulled apart and modified to around 3500 rpm stall.The other was made up of the VH rear plate and a 300ZX turbo torque converter. I was told it should be around 3000rpm stall.

on the below picture you will see the 2 torque converters split apart, far left is the VH one and nxt to it is the one from a 300ZX.

I had 2 high stalls made for my car, one of them was just the original one pulled apart and modified to around 3500 rpm stall.The other was made up of the VH rear plate and a 300ZX turbo torque converter. I was told it should be around 3000rpm stall.

http://img160.imageshack.us/im...9.jpg

on the below picture you will see the 2 torque converters split apart, far left is the VH one and nxt to it is the one from a 300ZX.

http://img139.imageshack.us/im...6.jpg

For some reason i cannot seem to post pictures on this site,

I have no idea what the trans temps are, but it does go thru fluid faster than normal... I have a big-ish trans cooler, and I just change my fluid once a year with dino..... Has worked fine for 2 years, i dont think the trans runs EXCESSIVELY hot, but it does run hotter when you are really getting into the throttle...

the Z32 Twin TURBO TC is different.. Even though they were both RE4R03A's, theyre slightly different, the input shaft on the Z is a litlte different...

No reason for bigger injectors, the stock ones can handle 400+HP with no problem at all!!!!

Well, I found the guy to build my converter. It is a little pricey, but with the quality, warranty, and a free stall upgrad within 2 years, it is a good deal.

Precision Industries

I will start out with the 3,000 RPM stall, and go from there. Probably a 3,500 RPM stall would be better fro the track.

Yeah, precision industries, dragon torque converters... its what james has.!!!!

I thought I'd ask while yall are talking transmissions. I have noticed that when I shower down on the gas and the trans shifts up to third and fourth that the TC will lockup at full throttle. I thought that it isn't suppose to lockup until you have eased of the throttle. I know that when I drove my mom's Q that it didn't lockup until I eased off. It is as if the tranny controller doesn't realize that I have it to the floor and ingages as it would normally. I know that if it continues that I could burn up the internal clutch. Any ideas?

Well you can check this on the consult (torque converter lockup duty cycle), because I dont see anything that would cuase the TC to lockup abnormally like that you could always swap TCUs and see what it does!!!

I might do that since I still have my original 2nd gear start TCU. I know that I use to get two error messages that had to do with the valvebody I think. I would clear the codes with the consult but it would come right back. This is until I changed out the TCU for 1st gear start.