High Mileage 300ZX?

The Nissan 300ZX (Z32) general community discussion forum
TheN00b
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Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2016 5:23 pm

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More dumb questions that are probably extremely apparent!

The 300ZX I'm looking at has.... 210K. Miles. Maybe thats why it wasn't mentioned in the listing. But something draws me to this car and I still want it. Its naturally aspirated with no turbos, so how crappy of a condition would you guys think the engine is in? And what should I look at or ask?

I am worried it is going to be a total turd, requiring something expensive every 20 miles. Which is fine, but I want to know what I'm getting into.


nissanfreak12
Posts: 1709
Joined: Sun Jan 23, 2011 4:07 pm
Car: 92 300zx 2+2 TT
Location: Denver, CO

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Its hard to say the condition of the engine. Do a compression test and leak down test. That should give you a better understanding of the condition.

Just remember the mileage has more to mess with than just the engine. Keep that in mind as well, could the engine could have been replaced or rebuilt. Bushings and electronics wear with age as well.

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evildky
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I had a 200k mile engine that I replaced wiht a "low miles JDM engine" due to concern over the milage. The high milage engine was in better shape internally than the "low miles JDM engine"

z.Leinbach
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sometimes the car picks the driver. if you are drawn to the car. buy it but be wary of what lies underneath it. I learned this the hard way. just as Nissanfreak12 said. do all the check up stuff for it. compression, leak down. get the conceptz 120k service kit. get new plugs, update the ptu if it hasn't been done. and love the car.

rgregoryb
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Car: 1992 300ZX 2+2 NA

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Mine had 175k when I got it a year ago the engine internals seem fine, uses no oil. Have I spent a lot of money on it? Yep, it is a 25 year old car things go bad thank goodness parts are available.

TheN00b
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Wow, thanks for the plentiful and fast replies!

@nissanfreak12, for sure. I don't have any compression testers or leakdown testers either, but thats probably something I should get for later anyways. For sure, think I am just going to rebuild/re-cap the ECU for the heck of it.

@evildky, hmm, thats pretty odd. So I guess it also depends on how hard the car was run?

@z.Leinbach, lol, pretty true statement. It will be most likely a project until it runs well. I see that the ConceptZ 120K service kit is almost $500, which is waaay too much for the parts it has. Are they really that finicky on parts?

@rgregoryb, true... But thats pretty good its gone 175K without burning oil!

This community is awesome. I'm going to have to stick around!

nissanfreak12
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Joined: Sun Jan 23, 2011 4:07 pm
Car: 92 300zx 2+2 TT
Location: Denver, CO

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JDM engines are known for being bad, even though low miles. Japan has a a completely different emission standards than the US. They base it off the structural demise, rust, so basically if the body has enough rust they will not pass the car. Most cars do not last that long or are driven very little and the owners rarely change the oil or upkeep on the engine because of this, they beat very hard on the engines, treat them really not the best. Thats how we get low mileage JDM engines over state side. I had a JDM engine in my TT, ran flawless, but the oil pan was changed, oil pump, internally cleaned. Basically I got a good one for the most part, but there are horror stories out there.

You can rent a compression tester from most autoparts stores, unless you live in CA, then chances are you cant. They are relatively cheap and good to have. Leak down tester you can make yourself. If you do a compression test, makes sure you have a full battery, possibly battery on a charger, car warm and throttle bodies open. Unplug the CAS before cranking so it doesn't spray fuel in the combustion chamber.

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evildky
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I've made many a rant on the "low miles JDM engines" cliff notes, if it comes on a pallet without the odometer it's miles unknown, anyone who claims otherwise is either ignorant or crooked.

High miles on an engine mean very little, if it's been serviced and cared for it'll last nearly indefinitely, there have been numerous cars from various manufacturers to hit 1 million miles now on their original engines. The time bomb in the Z32 si the timing belt, keep it changed, keep your oil changed and it will live a very long life.

TheN00b
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@nissanfreak, makes sense. So I will do that, and do you have any links to how to make a leak down tester?

@evildky, lol. I have indeed seen that (Yes, that IS Matt Farah's Million Mile Lexus) and alright. I'll also use my borescope to check the condition of the inside of the engine as soon as I can.

So, my list is as followed; good fluids (what do you suggest for coolant? thinking thicker oil myself), probably new oil/air filter, all the belts, and water pump because its only $27 off RockAuto. Anything else I should add (other then renting a compression tester)?

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centralcoaster33
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nissanfreak12 wrote:...You can rent a compression tester from most autoparts stores, unless you live in CA, then chances are you cant.
I guess I'm not sure about renting in CA, but that's because they are free to borrow! No rental fee. Just deposit and full refund. As you were... ;)

rgregoryb
Posts: 285
Joined: Tue Oct 27, 2015 3:12 pm
Car: 1992 300ZX 2+2 NA

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If you are replacing the water pump you have done the majority of the work to replace the timing belt and all the appropriate parts. Yes, go with Nissan OEM parts it is crazy to try to save a few bucks on the parts that if they fail will utterly destroy your engine. Every 60k miles or 4-5 years it needs to be changed. My Z has used Valvoline 10w30 for the past 20 years not synthetic just regular old slippery oil and Nissan filters.

TheN00b
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rgregoryb wrote:If you are replacing the water pump you have done the majority of the work to replace the timing belt and all the appropriate parts. Yes, go with Nissan OEM parts it is crazy to try to save a few bucks on the parts that if they fail will utterly destroy your engine. Every 60k miles or 4-5 years it needs to be changed. My Z has used Valvoline 10w30 for the past 20 years not synthetic just regular old slippery oil and Nissan filters.
Really? I have really only bought generic stuff and it's all been great for me. Plus it's a water pump and some belts, what is there to go wrong? And I am most likely going to get NAPA Gold oil filters with a cleanable K&N for air.

z.Leinbach
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So much yes on are they finicky!! I've been through 4 duralast water pumps. But in reality the parts are genuine Nissan parts, and at Nissan what's there is almost 700$ in parts. I cannot stress OEM parts are the way to go. Better safe then sorry when you have to spend 45 hours in labor after a failed knock off part destroys the engine

TheN00b
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z.Leinbach wrote:So much yes on are they finicky!! I've been through 4 duralast water pumps. But in reality the parts are genuine Nissan parts, and at Nissan what's there is almost 700$ in parts. I cannot stress OEM parts are the way to go. Better safe then sorry when you have to spend 45 hours in labor after a failed knock off part destroys the engine
True, but even legit parts from good manufacturers like Gates or GMB are bad? Kinda sucks, but I'll just buy genuine. Oh well, sorry for being so stubborn. You guys for sure know better than I.

nissanfreak12
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centralcoaster33 wrote:
nissanfreak12 wrote:...You can rent a compression tester from most autoparts stores, unless you live in CA, then chances are you cant.
I guess I'm not sure about renting in CA, but that's because they are free to borrow! No rental fee. Just deposit and full refund. As you were... ;)

You know what I meant, lol. I just tried to borrow, rent, use, whatever you want to call it OBDII scanner and was told they do not do that. You need to go to a shop to get scanned which cost money. AZ and CO you can loan them all day long basically for free. If you use it in the parking lot, just give them your DL. I thought the first autozone was pulling my leg, nope all parts store I went to said the same thing.

So I just wasn't sure if they allowed "testing equipment" in Cali.

nissanfreak12
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TheN00b wrote:
z.Leinbach wrote:So much yes on are they finicky!! I've been through 4 duralast water pumps. But in reality the parts are genuine Nissan parts, and at Nissan what's there is almost 700$ in parts. I cannot stress OEM parts are the way to go. Better safe then sorry when you have to spend 45 hours in labor after a failed knock off part destroys the engine
True, but even legit parts from good manufacturers like Gates or GMB are bad? Kinda sucks, but I'll just buy genuine. Oh well, sorry for being so stubborn. You guys for sure know better than I.

Gates is good for timing belt. I will agree to a extent on OEM. Tensioner, yes, OEM. GMB is a good brand for bearings, but I think NTK are OEM Timing bearings/pulleys. Just avoid no name bearings/pulleys.

Water pumps are a toss in the air. I had luck with aftermarket ones, as long as it is new not refurbished. OEM is best, but still have faults, just less faults.

rgregoryb
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Car: 1992 300ZX 2+2 NA

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TheN00b wrote:
z.Leinbach wrote:So much yes on are they finicky!! I've been through 4 duralast water pumps. But in reality the parts are genuine Nissan parts, and at Nissan what's there is almost 700$ in parts. I cannot stress OEM parts are the way to go. Better safe then sorry when you have to spend 45 hours in labor after a failed knock off part destroys the engine
True, but even legit parts from good manufacturers like Gates or GMB are bad? Kinda sucks, but I'll just buy genuine. Oh well, sorry for being so stubborn. You guys for sure know better than I.

Well yea, apparently so.If Nissan made tires I would also buy them, and gas,oil, window cleaners etc.

TheN00b
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Alright, so go OEM if I can, but not, stick to good brands. Got it! This all depends on if the guy with the 300ZX will actually cooperate with me. Last time I heard from him was Tuesday. :ohno:

rgregoryb
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Car: 1992 300ZX 2+2 NA

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I wish you good luck in this endeavor, it is a rewarding experience. Costly but rewarding and we get to buy the expensive gasoline.

z.Leinbach
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tires are honestly a brand perference, put if you plan to go fast definatly get a Z rated tires.. lol z is the speed rating of the tire. for window cleaning i reccomend a clay bar aaand a long handle razor blade, compound, polish and sealant/wax, makes water affraid of the window no joke i did this to mine. as for fuel as rgregoryb said. expensive fuel. but i can honesly say about 90 octane is perfect. hah also i use the 1 tank supplement of VP racing fuel additive, (fuel system cleane) ive been using it for 2 an a half month straight and its significantly improved

z.Leinbach
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i also hear that oem gear oils are best for our cars gear boxs, and i use mobile 1 extended performance 10W30 with a nissan filter for the engine. and prestone 50/50 with royal purple ice additive cause i have no shroud or aux fan.

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DCaff300ZX
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1993 CRP TT- Modified
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TheN00b wrote:Alright, so go OEM if I can, but not, stick to good brands. Got it! This all depends on if the guy with the 300ZX will actually cooperate with me. Last time I heard from him was Tuesday. :ohno:
Glad you got it, and do stick to it...use Concept Z and/or Z1, or Specialty Z for as much of your parts buying as possible and for the best choices and costs on the right parts to use. Find a reputable Nissan Z32 mechanic in your area or wherever for emergency needs and questions, and access to hard to find parts.

Also, read up on the Z32 and how Nissan really went all-out on the car, and how new and cutting edge the car was when manufactured to understand some of it's finicky-ness, and some explanations as to why we will be saying things like "OEM-only" and such when it comes to this car. Learn about Interference motors, electrolysis, and crappy connectors and corrosion related to the Z32. Learn what has been improved from the '90's on these cars, and what is still viable currently (surprisingly a LOT) to use when planning repairs and potential upgrades...often you can do both at once replacing a bad OEM part with an upgraded aftermarket part.
If you approach and threat the Z32 like a Honda (as your initial comments and approach indicated) and not with an understanding of the car you will hate it and it won't last long, but if you understand it and treat it right (lots of trouble and $ compared to a Honda) you will love it, and it will probably love you.

So all in all the Z32 is NOT a good car to own as a first car, or "I don't know much but always wanted one" purchase- it's finicky, old, and troublesome to work on or have worked on due to costs, lack of qualified mechanics, and lack of understanding of what Nissan made. Plus, most repauir shops use cheaper "jobber" parts and such for repairs, a disaster-in-waiting for a Z32 that was engineered for far better-fit and quality parts than most aftermarket even thinks about. Successful ownership involves beating past the negatives, and finding ways to get things done as best as possible especially when done DIY.
Good Luck!


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