This thread is only dedicated to the 2nd gen Rogues (not the 1st gens that were continued as the Select for the 2014 and 2015 models).

Information needed:

Post Year/Trim/Package/FWD or AWD, post a constant update on your mileage (kilometers for those who uses kilometers in their respective country), post any repairs that was done (excludes oil changes and tire rotations, CAF and EAF changes) with the cost of the repair, etc.

This will help everyone with the 2nd gen Rogue to better understand when they should be expecting parts to be replaced.

I will start off first:
Mine is a 2016 Rogue SL FWD with no premium package, current mileage is hovering around 47,700 miles, and no repairs have been done so far.

2014 SV AWD 154,000 miles
Major repairs:
CVT went at 61,000, Nissan USA wouldn't help out. It was covered on an extended warranty I purchased.
Cabin fan $250
CVT fluid change 94,000 $180
Fuel pump replaced on recall 95,000
Brakes front 104,000, rear 109,000 miles
Coolant flush 144,000 $80
Tires at 71k and 145k
Air intake sensor 148,000 $320

CapeCodChips wrote: ↑

Tue Mar 27, 2018 6:43 pm

2014 SV AWD 154,000 miles
Major repairs:
CVT went at 61,000, Nissan USA wouldn't help out. It was covered on an extended warranty I purchased.
Cabin fan $250
CVT fluid change 94,000 $180
Fuel pump replaced on recall 95,000
Brakes front 104,000, rear 109,000 miles
Coolant flush 144,000 $80
Tires at 71k and 145k
Air intake sensor 148,000 $320

Thats pretty sad. I spent less money on my 2003 Camry that had 245,000 miles on it.

Matter of fact the only repair bill I had on that car in all those miles was the starter and it cost me $120.

prj wrote: ↑

Tue Apr 03, 2018 7:18 am

CapeCodChips wrote: ↑

Tue Mar 27, 2018 6:43 pm

2014 SV AWD 154,000 miles
Major repairs:
CVT went at 61,000, Nissan USA wouldn't help out. It was covered on an extended warranty I purchased.
Cabin fan $250
CVT fluid change 94,000 $180
Fuel pump replaced on recall 95,000
Brakes front 104,000, rear 109,000 miles
Coolant flush 144,000 $80
Tires at 71k and 145k
Air intake sensor 148,000 $320

Thats pretty sad. I spent less money on my 2003 Camry that had 245,000 miles on it.

Matter of fact the only repair bill I had on that car in all those miles was the starter and it cost me $120.

Prj, this is why I created this sticky so that all 2nd gen owners can be ready to pay a certain amount of money if they take it to the mech or stealership service department. However, they can avoid those prices by DIY using the free FSM.

Quite frankly, In this day and age, I'm not sure why you would have to spend any repair bill money on a car with less than 100,000 miles.

The only reason I bought the 2018 Rogue is because my Camry was totalled in a car accident and the wife wanted AWD for her next car.

I hope the Rogue is a reliable as my Camry was.

prj wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 04, 2018 6:40 am

Quite frankly, In this day and age, I'm not sure why you would have to spend any repair bill money on a car with less than 100,000 miles.

The only reason I bought the 2018 Rogue is because my Camry was totalled in a car accident and the wife wanted AWD for her next car.

I hope the Rogue is a reliable as my Camry was.

This isn't like the 90s and earlier, where the cars had minimal amount of technology. Anything can go bad these days, after warranty expires, including the dreaded CVT. Plus, if you haven't observed, there are more threads dedicated to the 1st gens for almost everything, not the 2nd gens.

Also, lets keep this thread on topic.

Hey guys,
2015 Rogue SL AWD with premium package....
Had an issue with the radio bluetooth disconnecting constantly about a year ago, stealership fixed it during a routine service. reflashed the firmware or something.
Nothing else has been fixed.
I was also rear ended about a week ago, car is in the shop now... thankfully I dont have to pay a dime but my poor baby

2015 Rogue SL AWD with premium package 13,500 miles

No Repairs have been required (Knock on wood)

2015 Rogue SV FWD 82k kms or 50k miles

heat shield on exhaust - $65 (Canadian $)
rear brakes - $300 (this did not include new rotors - my feeling was that one caliper was sticking as one side much more worn than other - service the calipers - front still good)
driver window stopped - traced to no power but unable to determine why - mechanic friend jumped a power wire and works fine - dealer wanted $100 to start diagnostics

haven't done but one dealer says to flush brake fluid annually at $130 - other dealer says leave until ever do calipers

have what I believe is a partially broken frame on driver seat - some movement when sit in it - dealer said had some issues more with 14 models but Nissan does not cover

other than that regular oil changes and air filter and cabin filter. like the vehicle overall

Forgot to post this last month, but @58k miles:

4 new tires-- $211 for 3 tires and $1 for one tire.
Transmission Flush (not drain and fill)-- 12 qts
New wiper blades (replaced @ 54k miles) for $28

2014 Rogue S AWD
09.30.18 =106,000
70k replaced tires $ 700
80k replaced fuel pump (recall), Cvt flush, brake line flush, front rotors,front and rear brake pads $450
105k replaced antifreeze, thermostat, Sparkplugs (NGK), accessory belt. $430
All work has been done as preventive maintenance.
Cabin air filter replaced every 15k $20
Engine air filter replaced every 20k $20
Oil and filter replaced every 5k $40
Mobile 1 0w-20 full synthetic with mobile 1 filter

Solid car all around my wife loves it.

I don't think our Rogue would be considered 'High Mileage', but we have owned it for 4 years now with just under 50,000 miles on it. Wife's daily driver.
2015 SL AWD

Have only had to do routine maintenance. All of it done myself, dealer wants way too much $ for simple maintenance items. The dealer did the first oil change for free, the rest i have done at home. Total $ spent over 4 years of ownership is right at $200. Nearly all of that oil changes. I can't complain.

Oil changes 2x per year @ $28 each. Mobil1 M1-108 Filter($8) + 0W-20 oil(5 qts @ $4).
Engine Air Cleaner every 20,000 miles @ $11.00 each. WIX WA10215
Cabin Air filter every 2 years @ 6.00 each. TYC 800196P

Still on original tires, Dunlop Grandtrek ST30, and wipers. Brake pads look like about half life left, maybe more? I check at each tire rotation/oil change.

2014 Rogue SL AWD w/ 93k miles

Knock on wood, my '14 Rogue has been very solid so far. Except for a bent drivers seat track fixed under warranty, I think everything has been consumable items. There are a few intermittent rattles from somewhere underneath when the weather is cold, but I think it's just an exhaust shield or something and it's not worth fixing yet. On the exterior, things are holding up okay. A piece of silver veneer is coming off the roof rack and the headlights are cloudy (on the inside, and they have been since new), but neither of those require action yet. Interior is holding up very well w/ only a bit of wear on the front seat bolsters.

Rear brake rotors turned at about 30k miles
Bent drivers power seat track replaced under warranty at about 30k miles
Jiffy Lube broke the top latch on my air filter box at about 30k miles but a well placed drywall screw fixed that problem.
Fuel pump and airbag sensor recall at about 55k miles
Rear brakes and pads replaced, front rotors turned at about 60k miles
Front brakes replaced at about 80k miles
Tires replaced at about 85k miles(!) - Sumitomos are working out quite well
Regular oil changes w/ 5w 30 dino (not 0w-20 synthetic) about every 7.5k miles
Engine air filters about every 30k miles
One pair of front wiper blades at about 70k (still on the original rear wiper)
One cabin air filter swap last week (that thing was FILTHY)
New batteries in the Intellikey remotes (last night) Note: those remotes are super finicky about batteries. Cheap Ikea CR2032s did NOT work, but Energizers did.

The infotainment system spasms and reboots every once in a while and the 360 camera alignment has strayed a little bit, but everything still works satisfactorily. That's it. The OEM brakes seem to be the weakest point on my particular Rogue. Cheap aftermarket Centric brand rotors and pads are working out very nicely.

I'm thinking about a cooling system flush and maybe some fresh brake fluid, but the Rogue runs pretty well and I hate to mess w/ it. I'm basically at the bottom of the depreciation curve right now, so I guess I'll keep the Rogue for a while. As soon as the CVT hiccups though, I'm trading the Rogue in on something w/o a CVT.

2016 Nissan Rogue SV AVD
just over 201,000 miles

I did the manufacturer recommended maintenance schedule at the dealership for the first 100k or so, which would routinely cost several hundred dollars, they would perform inspections and I don't remember the exact cost of some of the work but did have the brake pads and one rotor replaced, the last time I took it in for 'schedule service' which cost $800 (plus another $800 for new tires), another dealer told me $1,600 had left the brake bleeder open and I was driving around with extremely low brake fluid. But, the same 2nd dealership that told me about the $1,600 mistake also filled my windshield washer fluid with untreated solution so it froze going through a snowstorm in the mountains the next day. So I've more or less tried to do as much maintenance myself as possible from then on.

I notice one small pop sometimes near the front drivers side when I turn right at a standstill or crawl speeds (parking lots, turns from a standstill, etc.) I have not noticed any torn boot or anything spilling but it seems like it will have to be addressed in the future.

Now, to the big thing, time rolls by and I noticed small coolant leak, evaporation is one thing? But I noticed the level dropping over the course of a month or so. I get a check engine light, and the engine can't seem to slip out of first gear. I turn the car off, turn it back on, and it seems to be running fine again, with the check engine light on. I come home and notice coolant has spilled all over the outside of spark plug well #1! Codes are 0300 and 0420.

I take out the ignition coil, and there is an inch of coolant in there. I dry that out, add some Bar's (assuming it was a head gasket) and the 0300 code goes away. But, then I notice something different about the spark plug well gaskets, and there's coolant along the spark plug well gasket, the well with lots of corrosion in it, and the other wells looking more or less in great condition, so I determine I need to replace the valve cover, and might as well do the valve cover gasket while I'm at it, right?

To get to the valve cover, both the Haynes(2015 and earlier) and Chilton manuals recommend removing the intake manifold, although I've seen a video of a guy doing it without removing the intake. Regardless, when I got under the car, I noticed dried coolant around the intake manifold gasket area corresponding to #1. I had already ordered an intake manifold gasket, because I read I'd be taking it off and figured what the hell, but I did not expect to see coolant there, unless it was runoff from the spark plug well/valve cover---but I'm not certain. I'm going to tackle the 0420 code, but I'm thinking I need to get the gaskets replaced first, that'll definitely affect the exhaust. I'm going to do an infrared check on the cat when I get the gaskets replaced.

So here's my current issue:::::

I'm having a hell of a time trying to break the intake manifold bolts loose. Some of the zip tie clips for wiring on the engine mount are a real pain, and there's an electrical connector on the passenger side of the manifold that's been giving me a real issue, but I always assumed I'd get some leverage when I could move the manifold an inch or two....but I can't break those darn bolts... I have the two nuts on the outside studs loose, but for the life of me haven't been able to break the 3 bolt loose in the progression. I can get a good grip on it with a 12mm socket and a small 1/4" ratchet, but I can't put enough torque on it to break it loose. I'm sure tightening will not be an issue since it's only 18 ft lbs and I can reach all the bolts just fine----just can't break them loose. After the two nuts/studs on the upper corners, the next two bolts in order are on the lower side between chambers 1/2 and 3/4. The fifth is on the top in the middle, and I'm pretty sure I'll be able to break that with a wrench. It's such a tight spot.


Any ideas?? Tools? I've read a little that the intake/engine is similar to Altimas, anyone know this to be true?

Earthwateruser wrote: ↑

Fri Dec 07, 2018 1:21 pm

2014 Rogue SL AWD w/ 93k miles

Tires replaced at about 85k miles(!) - Sumitomos are working out quite well

If you don't mind me asking, what tires do you have on now? Are they the Sumitomo HTR A/S? What part of the country are you in? Much snow? We are getting close to needing replacements for the originals on our 2015 SL and I always like to get some actual feedback on same/similar make and model.

2016RogueSVAWD wrote: ↑

Sun Dec 09, 2018 6:38 am

So here's my current issue:::::

I'm having a hell of a time trying to break the intake manifold bolts loose. Some of the zip tie clips for wiring on the engine mount are a real pain, and there's an electrical connector on the passenger side of the manifold that's been giving me a real issue, but I always assumed I'd get some leverage when I could move the manifold an inch or two....but I can't break those darn bolts... I have the two nuts on the outside studs loose, but for the life of me haven't been able to break the 3 bolt loose in the progression. I can get a good grip on it with a 12mm socket and a small 1/4" ratchet, but I can't put enough torque on it to break it loose.


Any ideas?? Tools? I've read a little that the intake/engine is similar to Altimas, anyone know this to be true?

I'm assuming you don't have enough room for a proper breaker bar, so get a long (15"-24") pipe just small enough i.d. to slide over your 1/4" ratchet. That should give you enough leverage.

Lone Wolff wrote: ↑

Sun Dec 09, 2018 7:25 pm

2016RogueSVAWD wrote: ↑

Sun Dec 09, 2018 6:38 am

So here's my current issue:::::

I'm having a hell of a time trying to break the intake manifold bolts loose. Some of the zip tie clips for wiring on the engine mount are a real pain, and there's an electrical connector on the passenger side of the manifold that's been giving me a real issue, but I always assumed I'd get some leverage when I could move the manifold an inch or two....but I can't break those darn bolts... I have the two nuts on the outside studs loose, but for the life of me haven't been able to break the 3 bolt loose in the progression. I can get a good grip on it with a 12mm socket and a small 1/4" ratchet, but I can't put enough torque on it to break it loose.


Any ideas?? Tools? I've read a little that the intake/engine is similar to Altimas, anyone know this to be true?

I'm assuming you don't have enough room for a proper breaker bar, so get a long (15"-24") pipe just small enough i.d. to slide over your 1/4" ratchet. That should give you enough leverage.

Thanks for the reply. Definitely going to be trying a few things over the next couple of weeks... trying to figure out how to easily post a pic without having to upload it somewhere else yet...

prj wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 04, 2018 6:40 am

Quite frankly, In this day and age, I'm not sure why you would have to spend any repair bill money on a car with less than 100,000 miles.

The only reason I bought the 2018 Rogue is because my Camry was totalled in a car accident and the wife wanted AWD for her next car.

I hope the Rogue is a reliable as my Camry was.

I hope mine is as reliable as my first Nissan...'91 240 SX...

CapeCodChips wrote: ↑

Tue Mar 27, 2018 6:43 pm

2014 SV AWD 154,000 miles
Major repairs:
CVT went at 61,000, Nissan USA wouldn't help out. It was covered on an extended warranty I purchased.
Cabin fan $250
CVT fluid change 94,000 $180
Fuel pump replaced on recall 95,000
Brakes front 104,000, rear 109,000 miles
Coolant flush 144,000 $80
Tires at 71k and 145k
Air intake sensor 148,000 $320

I would like to ask you how you went about getting the cvt repaired through your extended warrenty. I am looking for different avenues to try and get mine fixed

CapeCodChips wrote: ↑

Tue Mar 27, 2018 6:43 pm

2014 SV AWD 154,000 miles
Major repairs:
CVT went at 61,000, Nissan USA wouldn't help out. It was covered on an extended warranty I purchased.
Cabin fan $250
CVT fluid change 94,000 $180
Fuel pump replaced on recall 95,000
Brakes front 104,000, rear 109,000 miles
Coolant flush 144,000 $80
Tires at 71k and 145k
Air intake sensor 148,000 $320

I would like to ask you how you went about getting the cvt repaired through your extended warrenty. I am looking for different avenues to try and get mine fixed

2014 Rogue 160k KM still original CVT
CVT flush at 100k by dealer

On a side not, I am finding it hard to find a repair manual for the second generation Rogue, any ideas?

MrX. wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 18, 2019 2:54 pm

2014 Rogue 160k KM still original CVT
CVT flush at 100k by dealer

On a side not, I am finding it hard to find a repair manual for the second generation Rogue, any ideas?

https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nissa ... nuals.html

Nissan FSM. Just click 2014 for your year!

Its super vague as it doesn't tell what sizes the bolts are, so you should have every size bolt socket in your tool box

datechboss101 wrote: ↑

Sun Jan 05, 2020 10:31 pm

MrX. wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 18, 2019 2:54 pm

2014 Rogue 160k KM still original CVT
CVT flush at 100k by dealer

On a side not, I am finding it hard to find a repair manual for the second generation Rogue, any ideas?

https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nissa ... nuals.html

Nissan FSM. Just click 2014 for your year!

Its super vague as it doesn't tell what sizes the bolts are, so you should have every size bolt socket in your tool box

Thanks,found that a while back. I was looking for a haynes kinda manual, but this is better than nothing
I got all the sizes! haha

Doing a mileage update on my 2016 Rogue:
Current Mileage: 106408 miles (still on Original CVT)
68k miles: New Nissan OEM Battery (failed multiple battery tests due to low CCA).
LED Low Beam conversion

73k miles: Cheapo Nissan Advantage value front brake pads

92k miles: CVT Fluid and Brake fluid flush, drive belt replaced

97k miles: Rear and Front wiper blades, Engine and Cabin air filters

105k Service: Coolant Flush @ Reed Nissan for $149.99
NGK Ruthenium HX Spark plugs $34 from Rockauto, $107.50 labor from Local Mechanic

Oil changes: Past 2 oil changes has been Mobil 1 0W-20 synthetic motor oil (last oil change was $20). No issues so far, and oil was still great after 5200 miles driven on it.

I recently bought front Nissan advantage front brakes and rotors.

Brakes are okay so far, but the rotors look like garbage because the center area rusts so easily since day one.

Looks ugly as hell. Visually unattractive, should have known better.

Should have gotten EBC premiere rotors like my rear, looks way better with the black painted centers.

I am looking at Akebono brake pads this time since Nissan's brake pads are still 2 arms and 4 legs in total. Rotors, I am unsure what brand to get.

Back in my younger days (1980's & 90's) I replaced pads and rotors a lot more frequently on my own (plus my sister's and various girlfriend's) cars and I always had good luck with Napa brand brake rotors. Long lasting and I would always get at least one, sometimes two, resurfacings before needing to completely replace them.
Having said that, I haven't had to replace brake rotors on any vehicle in over 10 years so I don't know if they still are as good as they used to be. We don't live in city anymore so we have a lot more HWY miles, less stop and go = less wear on the brake components.

datechboss101 wrote: ↑

Mon Jan 06, 2020 2:05 pm

Doing a mileage update on my 2016 Rogue:
Current Mileage: 106408 miles (still on Original CVT)
68k miles: New Nissan OEM Battery (failed multiple battery tests due to low CCA).
LED Low Beam conversion

73k miles: Cheapo Nissan Advantage value front brake pads

92k miles: CVT Fluid and Brake fluid flush, drive belt replaced

97k miles: Rear and Front wiper blades, Engine and Cabin air filters

105k Service: Coolant Flush @ Reed Nissan for $149.99
NGK Ruthenium HX Spark plugs $34 from Rockauto, $107.50 labor from Local Mechanic

Oil changes: Past 2 oil changes has been Mobil 1 0W-20 synthetic motor oil (last oil change was $20). No issues so far, and oil was still great after 5200 miles driven on it.

It's great that your Rogue is running well at over 100k, but these types of posts drive me nuts. It's not your fault, just that I baby my vehicles so much. In addition to full synthetic oil changes every 7000 miles and tire rotations, I also replace both air filters every 15k. Every 30k is new transaxle gear oil, rear differential fluid, transmission fluid, and rear wiper blade. Every 60K is spark plugs, radiator flush, and belt(s). I also generally don't buy cheap brakes, and I'd rather spend money to replace rotors every time. With a set of brakes typically lasting over 50k, I think I've gotten value out of a set of rotors and resurfacing is never quite as good as buying new. Also, if the calipers need any special attention, they usually play better with new rotors once that caliper maintenance is complete. I don't want to run the risk of having to do another subsequent brake job prematurely because I gambled by trying to stretch the life of the original rotors and lost the bet. I'd rather just spend extra up front and know with certainty the job will last. I love EBC products. I also like to flush and replace the brake fluid at the same time new pads and rotors are being installed.

Factor in new front wiper blades, an occasional battery replacement, an occasional alignment (usually only when buying new tires, but that's another cost - tires themselves), burnt out bulbs, washer fluid, annual inspections, and full synthetic oil every 6000-7000 miles along with a mid-level or premium oil filter, and the costs really add up.

You have over 100k and you probably haven't done half this stuff I've listed.

How do you get Mobil 1 for $20?

DTASFAB wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 07, 2020 12:17 pm

datechboss101 wrote: ↑

Mon Jan 06, 2020 2:05 pm

Doing a mileage update on my 2016 Rogue:
Current Mileage: 106408 miles (still on Original CVT)
68k miles: New Nissan OEM Battery (failed multiple battery tests due to low CCA).
LED Low Beam conversion

73k miles: Cheapo Nissan Advantage value front brake pads

92k miles: CVT Fluid and Brake fluid flush, drive belt replaced

97k miles: Rear and Front wiper blades, Engine and Cabin air filters

105k Service: Coolant Flush @ Reed Nissan for $149.99
NGK Ruthenium HX Spark plugs $34 from Rockauto, $107.50 labor from Local Mechanic

Oil changes: Past 2 oil changes has been Mobil 1 0W-20 synthetic motor oil (last oil change was $20). No issues so far, and oil was still great after 5200 miles driven on it.

It's great that your Rogue is running well at over 100k, but these types of posts drive me nuts. It's not your fault, just that I baby my vehicles so much. In addition to full synthetic oil changes every 7000 miles and tire rotations, I also replace both air filters every 15k. Every 30k is new transaxle gear oil, rear differential fluid, transmission fluid, and rear wiper blade. Every 60K is spark plugs, radiator flush, and belt(s). I also generally don't buy cheap brakes, and I'd rather spend money to replace rotors every time. With a set of brakes typically lasting over 50k, I think I've gotten value out of a set of rotors and resurfacing is never quite as good as buying new. Also, if the calipers need any special attention, they usually play better with new rotors once that caliper maintenance is complete. I don't want to run the risk of having to do another subsequent brake job prematurely because I gambled by trying to stretch the life of the original rotors and lost the bet. I'd rather just spend extra up front and know with certainty the job will last. I love EBC products. I also like to flush and replace the brake fluid at the same time new pads and rotors are being installed.

Factor in new front wiper blades, an occasional battery replacement, an occasional alignment (usually only when buying new tires, but that's another cost - tires themselves), burnt out bulbs, washer fluid, annual inspections, and full synthetic oil every 6000-7000 miles along with a mid-level or premium oil filter, and the costs really add up.

You have over 100k and you probably haven't done half this stuff I've listed.

How do you get Mobil 1 for $20?

Dude, I did an update on what was replaced on the top, but I'll list it here again.

How I got Mobil 1 for $20? I might have made a strong relation with one of the service advisor who literally went to the back of the shop and beat a $29.99 synthetic oil coupon from Nissan of Tampa. Granted, the 2019 got Mobil 1 for $30.

I do replace my front wiper blades every year due to my long and high mileage commutes, tranny fluid is every 30k (give or take 1-3 thousand miles) intervals but first tranny fluid change was at 58k, brake fluid every 20k.

This year alone, if I take the 2016 to the dealer, I will be spending over $2000 in general maintenance repairs. Why this number, its because my tires has roughly 40% life left (Costco tire people said another 12k miles is remaining on the tires before the thread becomes way too dangerous to drive), and all the brakes needs to be replaced ( I already can hear that ungodly screeching sound at low speeds), in addition to 1 or 2 brake fluid changes (will be taken care at next Oil change), and transmission fluid change (2 oil changes from now), followed by a bunch of oil changes.

If I do DIY route, I got buddies that is willing to guide me through most of these jobs, cutting those prices in half (except tires). I will have a better break down analyized at end of year on how much I spent on maintenance items for this year and how much the 2016 costed us to own for 5 years (maintenance only).

I will be saving a ton of money on tire rotations since Costco does it for free and I can drop it off at Costco and go to class (there's one costco that is like 1 mile far from campus).

Hi all...2015 Rogue SL, 123K .. .drivers dad is former Vietnam Avionics Marine and BMW line mechanic then Corporate technical sales guy.
Daughter is a multistate traveling manufacturers rep and her Rogue has made only one trip back to the dealer during its early warranty period for a foggy outside mirror camera. One trip. period

We replace the Battery every 3 years and tires when they are approaching the wear bars. She has a free tire rotation and balance deal at Discount tires.

We use the Rogue owners manual as a guide for service intervals, oil types and weights etc.

We do the maintenance together....oil changes at 10k , filters, brakes etc and transmission fluid dumps/changes. We replaced the spark plugs and serpentine belt at 110K.
All OEM stuff with a little Veterans Discount from our local Nissan store. I use a torque wrench and new crush washers yes, even on drain plugs, so please no flames on my technique. its the way i was taught, and it works for me. thanks


I'm considering replacing the fuel pump and fuel pump relay next time in for an oil change. so it'll be at about 140k ...
Short of a catastrophic failure on the interstate, that should work...thoughts. questions.. thanks

waltinbatonrouge