Thats pretty sad. I spent less money on my 2003 Camry that had 245,000 miles on it.CapeCodChips wrote: ↑Tue Mar 27, 2018 6:43 pm2014 SV AWD 154,000 miles
Major repairs:
CVT went at 61,000, Nissan USA wouldn't help out. It was covered on an extended warranty I purchased.
Cabin fan $250
CVT fluid change 94,000 $180
Fuel pump replaced on recall 95,000
Brakes front 104,000, rear 109,000 miles
Coolant flush 144,000 $80
Tires at 71k and 145k
Air intake sensor 148,000 $320
Prj, this is why I created this sticky so that all 2nd gen owners can be ready to pay a certain amount of money if they take it to the mech or stealership service department. However, they can avoid those prices by DIY using the free FSM.prj wrote: ↑Tue Apr 03, 2018 7:18 amThats pretty sad. I spent less money on my 2003 Camry that had 245,000 miles on it.CapeCodChips wrote: ↑Tue Mar 27, 2018 6:43 pm2014 SV AWD 154,000 miles
Major repairs:
CVT went at 61,000, Nissan USA wouldn't help out. It was covered on an extended warranty I purchased.
Cabin fan $250
CVT fluid change 94,000 $180
Fuel pump replaced on recall 95,000
Brakes front 104,000, rear 109,000 miles
Coolant flush 144,000 $80
Tires at 71k and 145k
Air intake sensor 148,000 $320
Matter of fact the only repair bill I had on that car in all those miles was the starter and it cost me $120.
This isn't like the 90s and earlier, where the cars had minimal amount of technology. Anything can go bad these days, after warranty expires, including the dreaded CVT. Plus, if you haven't observed, there are more threads dedicated to the 1st gens for almost everything, not the 2nd gens.prj wrote: ↑Wed Apr 04, 2018 6:40 amQuite frankly, In this day and age, I'm not sure why you would have to spend any repair bill money on a car with less than 100,000 miles.
The only reason I bought the 2018 Rogue is because my Camry was totalled in a car accident and the wife wanted AWD for her next car.
I hope the Rogue is a reliable as my Camry was.
If you don't mind me asking, what tires do you have on now? Are they the Sumitomo HTR A/S? What part of the country are you in? Much snow? We are getting close to needing replacements for the originals on our 2015 SL and I always like to get some actual feedback on same/similar make and model.Earthwateruser wrote: ↑Fri Dec 07, 2018 1:21 pm2014 Rogue SL AWD w/ 93k miles
Tires replaced at about 85k miles(!) - Sumitomos are working out quite well
I'm assuming you don't have enough room for a proper breaker bar, so get a long (15"-24") pipe just small enough i.d. to slide over your 1/4" ratchet. That should give you enough leverage.2016RogueSVAWD wrote: ↑Sun Dec 09, 2018 6:38 amSo here's my current issue:::::
I'm having a hell of a time trying to break the intake manifold bolts loose. Some of the zip tie clips for wiring on the engine mount are a real pain, and there's an electrical connector on the passenger side of the manifold that's been giving me a real issue, but I always assumed I'd get some leverage when I could move the manifold an inch or two....but I can't break those darn bolts... I have the two nuts on the outside studs loose, but for the life of me haven't been able to break the 3 bolt loose in the progression. I can get a good grip on it with a 12mm socket and a small 1/4" ratchet, but I can't put enough torque on it to break it loose.
Any ideas?? Tools? I've read a little that the intake/engine is similar to Altimas, anyone know this to be true?
Thanks for the reply. Definitely going to be trying a few things over the next couple of weeks... trying to figure out how to easily post a pic without having to upload it somewhere else yet...Lone Wolff wrote: ↑Sun Dec 09, 2018 7:25 pmI'm assuming you don't have enough room for a proper breaker bar, so get a long (15"-24") pipe just small enough i.d. to slide over your 1/4" ratchet. That should give you enough leverage.2016RogueSVAWD wrote: ↑Sun Dec 09, 2018 6:38 amSo here's my current issue:::::
I'm having a hell of a time trying to break the intake manifold bolts loose. Some of the zip tie clips for wiring on the engine mount are a real pain, and there's an electrical connector on the passenger side of the manifold that's been giving me a real issue, but I always assumed I'd get some leverage when I could move the manifold an inch or two....but I can't break those darn bolts... I have the two nuts on the outside studs loose, but for the life of me haven't been able to break the 3 bolt loose in the progression. I can get a good grip on it with a 12mm socket and a small 1/4" ratchet, but I can't put enough torque on it to break it loose.
Any ideas?? Tools? I've read a little that the intake/engine is similar to Altimas, anyone know this to be true?
I hope mine is as reliable as my first Nissan...'91 240 SX...prj wrote: ↑Wed Apr 04, 2018 6:40 amQuite frankly, In this day and age, I'm not sure why you would have to spend any repair bill money on a car with less than 100,000 miles.
The only reason I bought the 2018 Rogue is because my Camry was totalled in a car accident and the wife wanted AWD for her next car.
I hope the Rogue is a reliable as my Camry was.
I would like to ask you how you went about getting the cvt repaired through your extended warrenty. I am looking for different avenues to try and get mine fixedCapeCodChips wrote: ↑Tue Mar 27, 2018 6:43 pm2014 SV AWD 154,000 miles
Major repairs:
CVT went at 61,000, Nissan USA wouldn't help out. It was covered on an extended warranty I purchased.
Cabin fan $250
CVT fluid change 94,000 $180
Fuel pump replaced on recall 95,000
Brakes front 104,000, rear 109,000 miles
Coolant flush 144,000 $80
Tires at 71k and 145k
Air intake sensor 148,000 $320
I would like to ask you how you went about getting the cvt repaired through your extended warrenty. I am looking for different avenues to try and get mine fixedCapeCodChips wrote: ↑Tue Mar 27, 2018 6:43 pm2014 SV AWD 154,000 miles
Major repairs:
CVT went at 61,000, Nissan USA wouldn't help out. It was covered on an extended warranty I purchased.
Cabin fan $250
CVT fluid change 94,000 $180
Fuel pump replaced on recall 95,000
Brakes front 104,000, rear 109,000 miles
Coolant flush 144,000 $80
Tires at 71k and 145k
Air intake sensor 148,000 $320
https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nissa ... nuals.html
Thanks,found that a while back. I was looking for a haynes kinda manual, but this is better than nothingdatechboss101 wrote: ↑Sun Jan 05, 2020 10:31 pmhttps://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nissa ... nuals.html
Nissan FSM. Just click 2014 for your year!
Its super vague as it doesn't tell what sizes the bolts are, so you should have every size bolt socket in your tool box
It's great that your Rogue is running well at over 100k, but these types of posts drive me nuts. It's not your fault, just that I baby my vehicles so much. In addition to full synthetic oil changes every 7000 miles and tire rotations, I also replace both air filters every 15k. Every 30k is new transaxle gear oil, rear differential fluid, transmission fluid, and rear wiper blade. Every 60K is spark plugs, radiator flush, and belt(s). I also generally don't buy cheap brakes, and I'd rather spend money to replace rotors every time. With a set of brakes typically lasting over 50k, I think I've gotten value out of a set of rotors and resurfacing is never quite as good as buying new. Also, if the calipers need any special attention, they usually play better with new rotors once that caliper maintenance is complete. I don't want to run the risk of having to do another subsequent brake job prematurely because I gambled by trying to stretch the life of the original rotors and lost the bet. I'd rather just spend extra up front and know with certainty the job will last. I love EBC products. I also like to flush and replace the brake fluid at the same time new pads and rotors are being installed.datechboss101 wrote: ↑Mon Jan 06, 2020 2:05 pmDoing a mileage update on my 2016 Rogue:
Current Mileage: 106408 miles (still on Original CVT)
68k miles: New Nissan OEM Battery (failed multiple battery tests due to low CCA).
LED Low Beam conversion
73k miles: Cheapo Nissan Advantage value front brake pads
92k miles: CVT Fluid and Brake fluid flush, drive belt replaced
97k miles: Rear and Front wiper blades, Engine and Cabin air filters
105k Service: Coolant Flush @ Reed Nissan for $149.99
NGK Ruthenium HX Spark plugs $34 from Rockauto, $107.50 labor from Local Mechanic
Oil changes: Past 2 oil changes has been Mobil 1 0W-20 synthetic motor oil (last oil change was $20). No issues so far, and oil was still great after 5200 miles driven on it.
Dude, I did an update on what was replaced on the top, but I'll list it here again.DTASFAB wrote: ↑Tue Jan 07, 2020 12:17 pmIt's great that your Rogue is running well at over 100k, but these types of posts drive me nuts. It's not your fault, just that I baby my vehicles so much. In addition to full synthetic oil changes every 7000 miles and tire rotations, I also replace both air filters every 15k. Every 30k is new transaxle gear oil, rear differential fluid, transmission fluid, and rear wiper blade. Every 60K is spark plugs, radiator flush, and belt(s). I also generally don't buy cheap brakes, and I'd rather spend money to replace rotors every time. With a set of brakes typically lasting over 50k, I think I've gotten value out of a set of rotors and resurfacing is never quite as good as buying new. Also, if the calipers need any special attention, they usually play better with new rotors once that caliper maintenance is complete. I don't want to run the risk of having to do another subsequent brake job prematurely because I gambled by trying to stretch the life of the original rotors and lost the bet. I'd rather just spend extra up front and know with certainty the job will last. I love EBC products. I also like to flush and replace the brake fluid at the same time new pads and rotors are being installed.datechboss101 wrote: ↑Mon Jan 06, 2020 2:05 pmDoing a mileage update on my 2016 Rogue:
Current Mileage: 106408 miles (still on Original CVT)
68k miles: New Nissan OEM Battery (failed multiple battery tests due to low CCA).
LED Low Beam conversion
73k miles: Cheapo Nissan Advantage value front brake pads
92k miles: CVT Fluid and Brake fluid flush, drive belt replaced
97k miles: Rear and Front wiper blades, Engine and Cabin air filters
105k Service: Coolant Flush @ Reed Nissan for $149.99
NGK Ruthenium HX Spark plugs $34 from Rockauto, $107.50 labor from Local Mechanic
Oil changes: Past 2 oil changes has been Mobil 1 0W-20 synthetic motor oil (last oil change was $20). No issues so far, and oil was still great after 5200 miles driven on it.
Factor in new front wiper blades, an occasional battery replacement, an occasional alignment (usually only when buying new tires, but that's another cost - tires themselves), burnt out bulbs, washer fluid, annual inspections, and full synthetic oil every 6000-7000 miles along with a mid-level or premium oil filter, and the costs really add up.
You have over 100k and you probably haven't done half this stuff I've listed.
How do you get Mobil 1 for $20?