My car has recently begun idling too high, its sitting at around 1000rpm when warmed up. I have tried disconnecting the battery, the Accelerator cable isn't too tight, the car runs fine, although my gas milage is down and I think it running richer than normal.
This all seemed to start after I removed my ECU and put it back in. I changed nothing on the ECU however. It could be coincidence that this all happened at once.
The car idles at 1500 or more when its cold, then drops down when its warm.
Where is the idle adjustment screw at? I tried the screw that I found in the middle of the intake mani on the AICV but it didn't seem to do anything, however it seems to be plastic, and not metal, and my screwdriver was starting to mess it up. It this the screw, or is there something else I should also try?
High idle
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ItzGenX
- Posts: 1204
- Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2002 7:46 pm
- Car: Smoke Purple 95' S14.5. Powered by the "Iron Man".
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Re: High idle (BaliLover)
I've been driving around with all the same symptoms as you for 2 years. When it is cold the idle will go as high as 2k (if it hits 2k it will surge and hunt depending on how cold it is outside--the colder outside, the higher the idle). In the warm weather, the idle is perfect around 700 and wants to stall sometimes? If you have the same things as me, I've tried everything except replacing the IACV which might be the culprit. Oh and yes, that plastic screw is how you adjust the idle speed (in the cold it wont make much of a difference, mine is all the way down). If you do ever figure it out, post it please. I would love to know what it is/was. I am going with a new motor and standalone soon, but my cousin will have my motor I have now and will have to deal with it.
In order to adjust your idle it is necessary to follow the FSM procedure.
Warm the engine, rev the motor keeping it at 2K rpm for two minutes, rev the motor 3 times past 2K, let idle for 1 minute, turn off car, disconnect TPS, start engine and adjust idle.
This is the same procedure to accurately set you idle as well as timing. If you don't do this the TPS will fight you when trying to adjust the idle and the timing marks will jump around and not stay at 15BTDC.
Warm the engine, rev the motor keeping it at 2K rpm for two minutes, rev the motor 3 times past 2K, let idle for 1 minute, turn off car, disconnect TPS, start engine and adjust idle.
This is the same procedure to accurately set you idle as well as timing. If you don't do this the TPS will fight you when trying to adjust the idle and the timing marks will jump around and not stay at 15BTDC.
the coolant temp sensor is right above the TPS. Find your throttle body, and you'll see a red plug. Or you can check out the harness, there's a plug that goes down and has a metal thing attached to it. It's bolted to the valve cover with a 10mm bolt. It Y's off to your coolant temp sensor and the other thing that tells you your cluster the engine temp. When you pull that Y section of the harness off, you'll see the coolant temp sensor (2 wire) and the other sensor (1 wire). The coolant temp sensor, you might need to take off that little coolant hose that runs to your throttle body to get a 19mm deep socket to fit on your temp sensor.
You can use a KA engine temp sensor, picked mine up at kragens for 16 bucks.
You can use a KA engine temp sensor, picked mine up at kragens for 16 bucks.
Re: (rudee023)
I followed these instructions step by step and I am unable to adjust the idle either up or down.
My next step is to try the coolant temp. sensor since its fairly cheap to replace and it could also cause the car to idle higher than it should.
My next step is to try the coolant temp. sensor since its fairly cheap to replace and it could also cause the car to idle higher than it should.
Re: (BaliLover)
I've idled at about 1,300 forever. I just never worried about it. What's the big deal with it idleing a little high anyway?