That adjuster screw should turn freely and easily. If it doesn't, there is a problem.
Throttle body is same story as IACV; we don't get a rubber gasket but a dense wax-paper material. I'd grab a Felpro replacement at local auto parts store before you pull it. Also make sure you get it torqued in sequence and to correct values when you reinstall it. The FSM on here has those values/sequence.
Small narrow 2" putty knife works WONDERS removing these old gaskets. I keep a hand-me-down in my parts washer and get it out for doing this. Don't go nuts and gouge at the mating surface or you will damage it but you can usually get the blade underneath and 99% of the time it'll just lift right off, sometimes in pieces. Gasket scrapers are nice if you have the space to work with but I find myself using that putty knife in the engine bay more often than not. Also it's a little less hazardous to my fingers than a razor blade. Don't ask how I know... Be aware that your coolant runs THROUGH the TB on the bottom. Lots of people, myself included, just re-route the coolant line to bypass the TB permanently. Here's a shot of mine when I cleaned it a few weeks ago. I used a cutting wheel on my dremel to shave the lines off flush with the throttle body. I completely removed my intake manifold and redid all of the vaccum and emissions parts when I got the car. I don't really think that's necessary to do for a N/A car. The manifold wasn't designed to be boosted though and I take exception with the way the PCV system is routed through the intake runners when positive pressure is applied to the intake mani.
Don't try to remove the 2 screws holding in the throttle plate unless you have an impact screwdriver and a vise to hold the TB. You'll just round them out. Yeah they look easy enough but, trust me, they aren't.
That's what I'm talking about. Very handy to have around the garage for stubborn stuff like brake rotors. You can find them on Amazon or Harbor Freight for a good price.