Post by
slip'n'slide »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/slip-n-slide-u25205.html
Fri Dec 14, 2012 4:34 pm
Hello everyone,I have been scratching my head on this for a while, and I have tried numerous tests and wire inspections. At this point I need a hand or another perspective so to speak. I have a new ka24de-t, after fixing the other little problems I have had that go along with a full build, I am stuck on this one. I have had the intake off, cleaned and inspected all of the mechanical idle components. The part that has me scratching ,my head at this moment is the voltage at the air regulator(this is the nissan part name). At the EFI sub harness I get 10.5 volts for a split second with the key turned on, thats all, it disappears as soon as the meter reads it. (the battery voltage is 12.75 so its full charge). Per the factory manual(which I bought offline) it should have battery voltage for 5 seconds after the key is turned to the K.O.E.O. position.
Any help or incite would be greatly appreciated, the vehicle has had a tune done by enthalpy. the list of mods is as posted.
bored .020 over 8.5 :1 compression ratio
a multi layer steel head gasket
Brian Crower v2 cams (262)
the maf is from a 300zx with the last numbers reading n62
the injectors are 75lb hr.(I have wired in a resistor pack)
the fpr is a fully adjustable fuel lab regulator(fp is at 50psi with vac line off)
timing is at 20 btdc
the turbo it a t3/t4 50 trim stage 3 turbine wheel.
pauter rods
ross pistons
toga high volume oil pump
oil cooler
Please guys who have been building these cars for years I could really use a hand here.
blaster ss coil(with resistor wired in)