High Idle after Tps adjustment R34

A forum for owners and fans of the legendary Nissan Skyline and Nissan GTR.
~KnuckleDuster~
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Jul 21, 2016 3:05 pm

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The motor is an Rb25de from an R34. I noticed my tps voltage was .20 closed. I adjusted it to oem specs at 4.5 or so and that's when I started getting the high adle around 1300-1500. If I unplug the aac the idle goes back to normal. If I set any values on the aac in consult the idle goes back to normal. I thought I may have a bad tps and installed a new unit but the same thing. The aac adjustment screw is all the way down (and broken so I cant back it out again). I've cleaned it out a while back but never had an issue until now. Not sure why my idle is screwed now because I touched the tps..


~KnuckleDuster~
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Jul 21, 2016 3:05 pm

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edit

amc49
Posts: 1183
Joined: Mon Jun 19, 2017 7:24 pm
Car: '11 Nissan Versa
'17 Nissan Altima

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'Not sure why my idle is screwed now because I touched the tps.'

Really? Give it some thought, the answer right there in your words.

~KnuckleDuster~
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Jul 21, 2016 3:05 pm

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If you don't know what your talking about you shouldn't respond. Why are you posting in the skyline section if you own a Versa & an Altima?

The TPS's signal wire has a voltage range that you set with key on car off. This voltage should be around .4 - .5 volts without the accelerator depressed as per the FSM. Mine was .2 , so what confuses me is if I have the TPS set to the proper voltage my idle is out of control. I've tried adjusting the base idle per write ups (minus the ecu idle screw). I've lowered the voltage on the tps back to .2 & still idles high. Cleared ecu memory, ect.

I have a feeling it's something to do with the aac..anyone with some actual knowledge or experience on the subject would be greatly appreciated.

amc49
Posts: 1183
Joined: Mon Jun 19, 2017 7:24 pm
Car: '11 Nissan Versa
'17 Nissan Altima

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You clearly state the high idle did not begin until you adjusted the switch. You are breaking car fix rule #1, or 'look at the work'. Adjusting electronics often has another effect not planned on. Could be 2-3 things that happened there.

If you knew how many cars I have never seen before but fixed you would say nothing. I have never paid for a car repair in my entire life (40+ years worth) and a long stream of them and did not know a thing about any of those as well. They are cars, and that is good enough for me.

Up to 2000 hp. 200+ mph race cars and no formal training there as well. Self taught computer building, zero issues on a long stream of those too. Self taught ATX rebuilding, let me know when you catch up. Up to 10 types now I've never saw the insides of until I broke them apart, they all last at least 10 more years after it, I really can't say, one hasn't broken yet. I worked on two and spent up to $1 on each to get years more out of them as well, after I was told I needed a new transmission. Hilarious. CVT will be next and a leg up on them as I rebuilt that type drive 25 years ago all the time for industrial machines.

Ford changed TPS type on Focus cars to force owners to upgrade to a $300 new TB and different switch type, I created a mod that used a different TPS switch ($20) that modded easily in 5 minutes to the total cost of $2 more then worked perfectly to avoid that $300+ install thing Ford wanted. Ford TPS are not even settable, my modded one is. Other peoples' ideas had the same effect as yours, too high an idle and the ATX shifting totally screwed up. Mine works perfectly. Maybe I DO know a thing or 2 about TPS and effects? Nah, not me, I'm not smart enough.

There are so many non-OEM things and settings on my cars I cannot count, they run perfectly. Already working on relay changes in Nissan IPDM modules that 'cannot have the relays removed', same as the Ford CCRM and IRCM modules that cost $250 and I fixed for $5, it's funny. Ignition modules that change out for the normal guy for $600-$800, my fix cost 30 seconds electricity using a dremel and zero parts, the ignitions now have been working after they broke for years. I rebuild the $250 Ford PCM controlled alternators for as cheap as 30 cents for solder. Never more than $40-nobody showed me how to do that.

I'll leave you alone, you got enough issues as it is. I don't know spit about Nissans as well but I'm working on them and things go fine.

Luck............Skylines...........you act like they come from another universe...lol.

~KnuckleDuster~
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Jul 21, 2016 3:05 pm

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Wow your really showing your true colors here. I'm just a guy looking to get my car running again. After doing much research, fsm reading, and tinkering I decide to go on this forum which I never post on and hope to get a bit of advice to help steer me in the right direction or point out something I might have overlooked. What do I get? Some guy insulting me. The fact that you felt the need to give a complete stranger a four paragraph history of your automotive highlights is really quite sad. You clearly have personal issues you need to deal with. Maybe people you work or live with put you down or maybe your just unhappy with life in general and the only way you can feel better is to go online and look for people to attack and put down so they end up feeling just like you. If you were a confident happy person you wouldn't be acting like this. You need a hug friend.

amc49
Posts: 1183
Joined: Mon Jun 19, 2017 7:24 pm
Car: '11 Nissan Versa
'17 Nissan Altima

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Simple problem simple solution complicated by a mind locked into a box. That 'history' is only the tip of a huge iceberg.

Again, I'll leave you alone, I need no hugs.


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