High compression RB20DET Build in progress

[TimeAttackTheory]

Thanks...I was the one who had the ARP main stud problem a while back. they were too short. It's been a slow build due to high prices and hard to find parts

[AshMatthew]

Hey bro i have the same type of engine in my skyline.Im in the bahamas though, and i have a forum up on this site about it. My problem with it is the brains for it. What brains are you using to run the engine? I have an afc and tuned ecu but stock rb20det maf. Which isnt working because the car will start with the maf unplugged and when i plug it back in it shuts down. There are no leaks on vacuum or boost, and my timing is good so, as one high compressionist to the other what is your plan on brains? Are u gonna z32 maf it or q45 maf? or stand alone? let me know which one you think is best please i really wanna try get this sorted out to feel this boost on those pistons.

[Yellow4g63]

[Emperor87]

Ok well to the guy who resurrected this dead thread. I'm the same guy as TimeAttackTheory. For some reason my login doesnt work so I made a new screen name. To answer your question about tuning. screw all Mass Air Sensors. Heres me setup.

Haltech platinum pro
GM 3bar map sensor
Haltech IAT sensor
Haltech EGT sensor

If youre gonna do high compression and boost on an RB go with a Haltech platinum pro, Haltech e11v2, MoTec M800, or AEM ems. Do speed density and get rid of your MAF run a map sensor instead. The Haltech platinum pro comes with a built in map sensor but its only good for 1.5 bar since I plan on running more boost than that I opted for the GM 3 bar map sesor. Any map sensor you use other than the built in one you'll need to run an auxilary harness which can be ordered from haltech.

*Updates*

I changed some parts since I last made this thread. I'll be posting some vids soon

Here's pics of the motor in the car





It's been a very slow build due to the high cost involved with fully building an rb and fabricating custom parts but its coming along. Ive decided to upgrade to a gt3076r and a top mount manifold. I cant decide which manifold to choose. It's gonna be between the Garage7, Raw Brokerage, or Love Fab manifold.

New mod list goes as follows...

New oem engine gasket kit.
ARP main studs, head studs, rod bolts, and exhaust manifold studs
Cometic MLS head gasket, and exhaust manifold gasket.
CP Pistons 9.5:1 Compression ratio
Block and head has been decked raising the compression ratio to 10:1
5 angle valve job
Spool Austrailia conrods
ACL HPC coated main and rod bearings
Greddy cam gears
HKS timing belt
Clear timing cover
***Spec steel flywheel...My fidanza flywheel broke and they dont stand behind their products so f**k fidanza
Spec stage 3+ clutch
New oem timing belt tensioner, lower timing gear and roller
New oem oil pump
New oem water pump
Jun auto extended crank collar
q45 throttle body
Knock off Jun surge tank
***Rb motoring downpipe
***I modified a Ka24de water neck to fit on this so I could use KA rad hoses and it also doesnt get in the way of my intake manifold.
Nismo thermostat
Blitz nur spec r exhaust
***Cx racing fmic piping...this piping is sold on ebay and fits like crap and will have to be cut and re welded to get it to fit the way it fits in those pics
***Synchronic BOV...I sold my blitz bov on craigslist
***Delphi 780cc injectors
***Nozzs fuel rail
***Russell stainless steel fuel lines
***Mishimoto Rad, power steering cooler, and fans
***Zero lift motor mount and trans brackets
***Avid racing Sr20det solid aluminum mount kit
***Driveshaft shop aluminum driveshaft
***Haltech platinum pro
and other stuff...

This project is near completion, stay tuned for my 12.5:1 compression vh45de s14 Kouki build! I'll be consulting gsracer for this one.

[RustspecS13]

I can't wait to see the RB20 results. Should be interesting.

But when you build that VH, make/buy some real headers. That's where the power is with VQ and VH's. I mean equal length primaries and real collectors.

And nice choice on the haltech, I've worked with them a few times and they are always good.

~Alex

[bigfootap]

i didn't see it on your list but where did you get the intake manifold? And i was also wondering how you modified the ka24de water neck to fit and if you had pics?

[StricNyne]

man i heard sooo many differant things on the haltech built in map sensor, i heard 1 bar, 1.5, and 2.5 is listed on website, but i agree the haltech is the shizzzz i run it and its the bomb !!

[flatrate]

i have the haltech as well, it IS a 2.5 bar map sensor... its good to 22.5 psi

[Emperor87]

I can't wait to see the RB20 results. Should be interesting.

But when you build that VH, make/buy some real headers. That's where the power is with VQ and VH's. I mean equal length primaries and real collectors.

And nice choice on the haltech, I've worked with them a few times and they are always good.

~Alex

Yeah man the builds coming along nicely i'll keep you guys updated.

I plan on making equal length 4-1 headers going to two 80mm straight pipes. Thanx, i'm a big fan of haltech I plan on using haltech on the vh as well.

i didn't see it on your list but where did you get the intake manifold? And i was also wondering how you modified the ka24de water neck to fit and if you had pics?

I bought the intake manifold from a guy in connecticut. Idk where he got it from but its a knock off Jun surge tank and it looks very similar to a manifold made by ku engineering. I'll be taking some pics later on this afternoon. i'll post them up for you.

man i heard sooo many differant things on the haltech built in map sensor, i heard 1 bar, 1.5, and 2.5 is listed on website, but i agree the haltech is the shizzzz i run it and its the b0mb !!

Idk but my instruction manual that came with it says the map sensor is 1.5 bar. I personally dont like the idea of a built in map sensor because I dont wanna run a vacuum hose through my firewall, behind my dash, and into my ecu because who feels like replacing that hose if it leaks and what if the map sensor goes bad but the ecu is still good? I dont wanna have to replace the whole ecu or open up the ecu just to replace the internal map sensor, then how much would that cost? this is why I chose to use a GM map sensor, theyre cheap and can be bought at any local parts store, slap it on your firewall and if the hose on it ever gets damaged its a quick and easy repair.

[bigfootap]

So your using the haltech and a GM map sensor? How are you using the GM map sensor?

[RustspecS13]

Its very simple, there's a input for an external map sensor input. Its labeled.

And if the internal map sensor fails, you just have to use an external one. No big deal.

As far as the rating is, I believe they are rated at 2.5bar absolute. Which means like 22psi/14.7psi above atmosphere. Because the atmosphere is actually 14.7psi, and that's 1 bar. That's what an N/A engine sees, a boosted engine sees more then that. Hence why you cant put 2.5 bar of boost to a 2.5bar sensor, it has to be a 3.5 bar sensor.

~Alex

[Emperor87]

So your using the haltech and a GM map sensor? How are you using the GM map sensor?

nope I decided not to use the haltech map sensor. To use an external map sensor you have to buy the haltech auxilary harness which plugs into the ecu on the opposite side of where the nissan ecu connector goes. You solder the three wires from your haltech aux harness to your external map sensor. They are labeled. I believe you can pretty much use any map sensor theyre all power, ground, 5 volt reference. My buddy is using an AEM map sensor on his haltech and it works fine.

[bigfootap]

Oh alright that sounds fairly simple

[RRRRB]

what ever happened to this build? ever get it cranked up and on the dyno/track

[Yellow4g63]

Well prob money and he forgot his log in again lol.

[Yellow4g63]

it runs, got to love google lol.[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=taLyA3gcCM0[/youtube]

[RRRRB]

Id like to see it on the dyno...google find that? lol

[Yellow4g63]

couldn't find that. He prob hasn't posted updated info yet.