High Comp Build ka24e/ Rattle/grinding when letting off gas peddle

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5spdcontained
Posts: 11
Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2017 2:37 pm
Car: 1990 240sx SOHC

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Hey, so im in a bit of a bunch. Looking for someone else's experience or a good reference for what im about to tell you.
Now I have a ka24e fully built High comp engine(that I was told). I do not know the build list but I know its high comp for sure from working on it and driving it.

My main concern atm is I believe I have a flat lifter, slapping/ticking sound around cylinder 4 area(rear engine), I will check tonight to make sure its the lifters but I cant find a place online that will sell good lifters alone. (reference would be awesome) **Will update if I discover bad(flat) lifter**

Other problem is when I let off the gas peddle, I have a grinding/rattle type sound coming from the passenger side of the engine(intake mani area). I thought it was the trans. I Replaced the clutch, and resurfaced flywheel, and put in a new pilot bearing, and bleed my clutch. Still have that sound. Not sure what it could be. Any suggestions?

If anyone has any experience building a high comp ka24e, please help. Im still learning but im not a s***. I know what most parts are and what they do. I was hoping for finding a build list as a reference because my goal is to rebuild the engine but I want to make due with what I have to make her a daily until I can afford to put her aside and build a ka stroker engine. Anything helps, thanks - Casey


wa-chiss
Posts: 2569
Joined: Mon Feb 20, 2006 10:23 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan S13 H/C KA24E
2005 Toyota Sequoia
1976 Honda CB750F Super Sport
Location: San Angelo, TX

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I personally built my high compression KA24E.

There's a write up on taking the lifters apart and cleaning them. That could help if they're sticking from debris or sludge. If it doesn't help, you can always do the solid adjustable conversion. I bought mine second hand so I don't know who would have any.

As far as the rattle, you could be experiencing piston slap. Does it only happen when the engine is cold and go away when the engine is at operating temperature? Also could be the timing chain contacting the front cover.

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centralcoaster33
Posts: 2769
Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 10:41 am
Car: 240SX #5-1997
Location: Central Coast, CA

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Here's some links to some lifter tick threads. I don't know if they'll help you or not. I'm not versed in the single cam KA. It seems that poor oil pressure/ circulation can cause the hydraulic lifters to not work properly. Perhaps you have a pressure drop when letting off the throttle. Or maybe the rattle is different from the tick. I'm not sure what you're saying.
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/ka24e- ... epair.html
post6691695.html?hilit=sohc%20rattle#p6691695
post6715982.html?hilit=sohc%20lifter%20tick#p6715982

5spdcontained
Posts: 11
Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2017 2:37 pm
Car: 1990 240sx SOHC

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I appreciate the tips, thanks you. And The ratting/grinding sound isn't heard until you put your foot on the gas, but its easier to hear when letting off gas. Doesn't matter when its warm or cold, it still does it if that helps any. Also I should of mentioned I heard ka24e likes 15w-40, so I tried it and realized she ran a bit funky, and then wasn't happy with it. Switched back to 10w-30 and she runs better, but now I have these sounds going on.

wa-chiss
Posts: 2569
Joined: Mon Feb 20, 2006 10:23 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan S13 H/C KA24E
2005 Toyota Sequoia
1976 Honda CB750F Super Sport
Location: San Angelo, TX

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Yeah. Stick to 10w30.

5spdcontained
Posts: 11
Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2017 2:37 pm
Car: 1990 240sx SOHC

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@centralcoaster33, The ticking is constantly happening, and the rattle is there when you give it gas, but if you block out the exhaust, you hear the rattling/grinding sound coming from the intake-mani side. Also going to soak my lifters in 10w-30 for a couple days and make sure theres no dirt and air inside of them. and thank you wa-chiss. Can you tell me how you would start diagnosing ratting/grinding problem. Should I start with checking the timing chain and guides first?

wa-chiss
Posts: 2569
Joined: Mon Feb 20, 2006 10:23 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan S13 H/C KA24E
2005 Toyota Sequoia
1976 Honda CB750F Super Sport
Location: San Angelo, TX

Post

The only way I know of it to remove the front cover and look at the guides themselves. Slack in the chain is quite obvious on the non-moving guide. It's plastic and susceptible to deep marring or even breaking with a slacked chain. To remedy this, there's a guy who sells a "spacer" that fits over the end of the tensioner piston. It keeps the tensioner from sucking back in with no oil pressure. I'm thinking of buying another tensioner and making my own spacer. As I have the rattle on start-up.

A mechanics stethescope is a wonderful diagnostic tool. Can help narrow down the location of a concerning noise.

Not sure what you mean when you say you block out the exhaust exhaust.


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