High clutch engagement and slipping. Help please!

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
naed240sx
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Finally got my new hatchback driveable, and I am noticing that the clutch engages very far off the floor. It doesnt even start to grab untill I have let the pedal out about 3/4 of the way, and it is slipping pretty bad as well. When the clutch pedal gets out of adjustment like this, can this cause a slipping clutch? If so, why, and how should I fix this?

If it is indeed the clutch, how much do most shops usually charge for a flywheel and clutch install?

Thanks.


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S13 240SX
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did you try re-adjusting the pdeal or trying a new slave cylinder?

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slpr240
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adjust the pedal

naed240sx
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slave cylinder was replaced yesterday. The engagment point was high before having the slave replaced, but the clutch seemed grabby. Now, the engagement point is higher, and the clutch is slipping pretty bad. Shops fault? Is adjusting the pedal simple?

DjPantsSpecR
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Car: 93 Nissan MS13
92 Nissan RMS13

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i bet they didnt bleed it right if they replaced the slave

the clutch resevoir needs to be unbolted from the car and you need to physically raise it as high as you can to get rid of the air bubble, or bleed it for hours on end....

if you look at the hardlines going to the resevoir you'll notice it is actually higher than the resevoir itself, no amount of bleeding will ever get air that is trapped up there out of it. so you need to unbolt the resevoir and bend the hardline slightly with the cap off, almost instantly you'll hear the rush of air

i never like the idea of adjusting the pedal, thats what everyone does, they never actually adress whats wrong, they just go for the quick fix, when this is clearly the problem. This car was clearly designed to be RHD, where the hadline wouldn't even even cross the engine bay

naed240sx
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Yeah but would airbubbles cause the pressure plate to not be applying full pressure? The clutch pedal is firm and has good feel. I know what air in the lines feels like, because the old slave was leaking, and when the reservoir ran dry, the clutch pedal got horrible, and I could hardly shift. Seems like air in the lines would only make it harder to disengage the clutch, and would have nothing to do with clutch slip.

DjPantsSpecR
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i agree.

i wonder if the rear seal is so bad on that car that there is oil on the flywheel and its just a new problem you are discovering

naed240sx
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I would tend to doubt that, as the car is not leaking or burning any oil, and the motor seems to be in great shape with perfect compression and only 141k on the clock.

240Knightrider
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adjust the pedals first..

its easy to do but time consuming

Get under your dash you will see a pin holding a thread rod connected to your pedal. Take that pin out. Go to the engine bay, unscrew the bolts to your master cylinder.

Go back under your dash and push it through and turn the conneter between where the pin was at and the thread rod. You will need to screw it inward since you want it to be lower. Only a few at a time and then test to see if its right.


naed240sx
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240Knightrider wrote:adjust the pedals first..

its easy to do but time consuming

Get under your dash you will see a pin holding a thread rod connected to your pedal. Take that pin out. Go to the engine bay, unscrew the bolts to your master cylinder.

Go back under your dash and push it through and turn the conneter between where the pin was at and the thread rod. You will need to screw it inward since you want it to be lower. Only a few at a time and then test to see if its right.
Thanks. This is helpful. So how is this time consuming? Just because you have to keep taking it apart then putting it all back together, and trying the clutch out, then repeating? So it is possible that my pressure plate is never actually fully clamping down on the clutch?

InsanityInc
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You can adjust the rod without unbolting the master cylinder. Just loosen the lock nut on the adjustment rod. In order to make sure that you aren't blocking the compensating port you'll have to perform a check after you adjust it by pushing back on the slave cylinder with the reservoir cap on the master cylinder off, and making sure that you can make fluid flow up into the reservoir.

240Knightrider
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its time consuming IMO cause im not very patient.

But to make it a heck of a lot easier unbolt the master cylinder. Ive done this many times with different 240s...it makes it easier.


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