Since I haven't seen one made, here goes.

H4 8000K HID kit





Phillips bulbs



I'll start with the driver side first - Old bulb in:



New bulb in:



Cables connected to see if everything works



The best double side tape in the world



There is an obvious good mounting area for the ballast as seen below



Cables tied down and tucked away neatly



8000K HID on the left, Phillips bulb on the right



Passenger side ballast installation - Remove the fuse holder bracket with a socket wrench to make some space



Test fitting the ballast underneath the strut mount. It is a tight fit, but it is the best I could find



Everything installed, zip tied and put back in place



The results:







I'll need to adjust the beam angle down to not blind everyone on the road at night. There really is nothing more annoying than a light brighter than the sun concentrated at you when it is pitch black everywhere else.

I'll have pics once the lights have been adjusted. If it is still blinding, off they go...or projectors here I come.

Good write up. I'm considering getting HID's but I want to install fog lights prior.

Congratulations And Waiting Your tutorial for adjusting the angle of the beam,coz I need it so much , and I've posted a thread before and did not get an answer.And please post pix in the adjusting tutorial for the best beam angle and for the adjusting screw! coz I do not know where is it exactly.

Simple, yet effective.

Thanks for taking the time to post that!

There are two ways to adjust it, but end up using the same little white twisting thing that is located on the headlight facing the the back of the car. Just turn them while the lights are on and there you go. Adjust till happy. I should have thought of putting my ballasts there. I might re-adjust mine to be the same as here. Simple enough to find problems faster, etc.

tata12001 wrote:Congratulations And Waiting Your tutorial for adjusting the angle of the beam,coz I need it so much , and I've posted a thread before and did not get an answer.And please post pix in the adjusting tutorial for the best beam angle and for the adjusting screw! coz I do not know where is it exactly.

I found the white knob on the back of the headlights. Adjusting the beam angle is quite easy. However, you must have a allen wrench as it'll hurt if you try and use your fingers. A few turns counter clockwise and thats all your should need. Pictures are below:

Original beam angle with tape on the wall to mark new angle



White knob behind headlamp with allen wrench in it



Before height



After adjusting driver side



After adjusting passenger side



View from in the car



I parked the car in the dark and walked halfa block back. With the angle now, it no longer shines into eye level. It is bright, but won't be a nuisance to other drivers on the road.

williamk10 wrote:I parked the car in the dark and walked halfa block back. With the angle now, it no longer shines into eye level. It is bright, but won't be a nuisance to other drivers on the road.

Gotta give you credit for even thinking of it, good effort. Unfortunately, while it may be OK on level ground, with bumps in the road and hills to crest... you're still going to be blinding people. There is just no way to avoid the hot spots you get from retrofits. This is why OEM systems have self-leveling and HID specific optics with very well defined cut-offs. The blue hue is also a magnet for Jonny Law. A 4300k system would be a little more low key (allowing you better odds in getting away with the brightness) since it's closer to Halogen in color. Proper HID capsules really should not be tinted like that. That's a no-no. Not a negative dig on what you did. It is what it is. I'd consider trying different bulbs.

Oh and somewhat unrelated, someone said in a different thread that HID's run cooler and poses no threat in melting plastics. That information is entirely incorrect. HID's draw 35w of power, that doesn't mean it's cooler in terms of heat as a halogen bulb that draws 55w. There is a electrical arc in the capsule for crying out loud. That's a lot of energy! Energy produces heat. In a halogen bulb, it's just a very thin filament heated up to glow. Much less energy than an arc. If you held a lit HID capsule with your bare fingers, it's probably hot enough to burn your flesh right off the bones.

Thanks Soooooooooooooooooooooooooo much Williamk

10mm socket will adjust them too....

so you didnt buy a set with glare shields? my light pattern looks way different from yours.....

Can't you just get xenon lights so you don't need to put a conversion kit in your car?

Or am I way off?

I still don't agree with HIDs in halogen reflectors but it's whatever you wanna do. My idea for better lighting is to use higher performance halogen bulbs and use relays to give them power straight from the battery instead of through all the thin factory wires that drop voltage.

the only reason i upgraded to HID was cuz my silverstars burnt out and i didnt want to replace them.... so i will see how long the HID bulbs will last.... hopefully a couple of years

HID bulbs should last an extremely long time compared to halogens unless you got crappy quality stuff.

well thats just the thing... i have a lifetime warranty on the ballast, so all i really have to worry about it replacing bulbs, and i dont see these ones going out anytime soon....

I own a H4-3 Bi-xenon kit with the glare shield and my cut off looks a lot different would the glare shield change it?

On the road when my HID's are on at night I notice that they seem to cross or the light pattern does on the ground, anyway to adjust this? (I know projectors but no)

Lastly when you adjusted your HID's roughly how far were you from the wall?

Thank You

you didnt need to plug any relay or harness to battery? I was looking through YouTube on how to install HID. Their way looks way more complicated than your post. Yours seems like just plug in and thats it. Is your HID Hi/Lo? Would it be different procedure if my HID is hi/lo?

Thank you

Am I able to pick up a set of 5000k HID bulbs from over here (in Japan) and just install them to my Versa? They have a huge selection available over here.

Find any H4-3 Bi-Xenon with metal shields over a portion of the bulb area and you should be good to go, and if they are made in Japan they may be of a better quality than the ones made in China, or maybe not.

feloniousmonk wrote:
Oh and somewhat unrelated, someone said in a different thread that HID's run cooler and poses no threat in melting plastics. That information is entirely incorrect. HID's draw 35w of power, that doesn't mean it's cooler in terms of heat as a halogen bulb that draws 55w. There is a electrical arc in the capsule for crying out loud. That's a lot of energy! Energy produces heat. In a halogen bulb, it's just a very thin filament heated up to glow. Much less energy than an arc. If you held a lit HID capsule with your bare fingers, it's probably hot enough to burn your flesh right off the bones.

You say that energy produces heat. Can you explain how consuming 55 watts of energy with a halogen bulb produces less heat than consuming only 35 watts of energy with an HID bulb? The 35 watt HID produces far more light than the 55 watt halogen. If it can convert less energy into both more light AND more heat, we could solve the energy crisis!

HID's generate less heat than halogen bulbs. A halogen bulb will also burn "your flesh right off the bones". In the field of indoor gardening, for orchids, herbs, and even illegal growers for pot, there is an ongoing issue with the excess heat created by the halogen grow bulbs. As a result, more and more of these growers are turning to HID light sources, as they have a much higher luminous efficacy since a greater proportion of their radiation is in visible light as opposed to heat.

Here's something to think about. A standard halogen bulb consists of a sealed glass tube with a short tungsten filament inside the tube. The tube is usually filled with argon and/or other inert gases. When current is applied the tungsten burns yet remains a solid, and you get heat and light as the byproducts of the current being applied. HID lights on the other hand produce light by applying a higher voltage to ignite an arc of xenon gas between two tungsten tips. The tungsten tips are the source of the current igniting the gas, yet the tungsten tips themselves do not burn or glow. This is because the xenon gas burns at a lower temperature than tungsten.

I work in the motorcycle industry, and a lot of motorcycles have plastic headlamp lenses instead of glass. Converting to HID is a non issue for heat, whereas putting in a higher wattage halogen bulb will almost certainly melt plastic reflectors and housings.

__________________GapRunr

Promise Land wrote:Am I able to pick up a set of 5000k HID bulbs from over here (in Japan) and just install them to my Versa? They have a huge selection available over here.

hardest part for me was to install the actual bulbs into our stock headlight housing what a pain the a$$ that was, I was swearing left and right for hours.

Sticky please!!!

im installing some of these right now just got the bulbs in without hitting them on anything.. phew lol now how do i get the big rubber bushing thing around all the cables and connecters? i was thinking cut it but doesn't look like you did so whats the secret?

just force them out with out ripping the wire thats what i had to do ive had mine in since i bought the car in august and have never had any problems with the popo lol and ive got the 10000k the super blue ones and sorry to any one coming the other direction lol

thanks for this tutorial. I will be putting hids in my '09 versa in the next couple weeks. this should help out a lot. glad i found this.

I first looked in the tech articles and then the nissanversa.org tutorial pages and found nothing. any chances of getting this tutorial in those section for easy access. I know it is stickied but for others like me it would be easier to find if it was in those sections.

So how good do they work? Are you happy with them?

I installed to the HID to my gf's car... didn't know where to adjust the headlights. Thanks for this post.

Also, I am not sure if I put the lights in properly because the passenger side doesn't seem to show just one line... Maybe just need to be adjusted?

I'm from Canada and they require DRL's... which I am assuming uses the same filament as the high beams on the stock H4 halogen bulb.

So I got a H4-2 kit (HID low beam + a small halogen bulb on the side to function as a DRL and a "high beam") instead of a bixenon (magnetic actuated Hi/Lo function) because I don't want the HID to function as the DRL.

Does anyone have experience with this a H4-2 HID kit?
I haven't received the kit yet (bought it online) But I worry about any wiring issues and high beam/low beam/DRL problems.

I have also noticed that with stock lights, turning on the high beam automatically shuts off the low beam filament and vice versa. Is this normal? I ask because normally, turning on high beam = low beam + high beam ON simultaneously.

For the above post on HID being hotter than halogens:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zwbCo7Vbc5w

note that the guy in the video is using 55w HID's.

which brand and where did you get the hids? i usually buy mine from ebay for my civics but recently ive been hearing alot of negative.. so maybe i should just stick with brands everyone else seem to use.. thanks..
joe