Hi I bought an HID kit roughly 5 - 6 months ago and when I pulled out the bulb today I discovered a white residue around the base of the bulb, and kind of a brown burn or mark on the glare shield (They are H4 Bi-Xenons 5000K) (eBay American Seller)
Here are some pics let me know if this is normal abnormal or am I just crazy click on image to enlarge to full size
HID Bulb Residue
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superskunk
- Posts: 1416
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- Car: '07 Nissan Versa S Hatch
'06 Nissan Murano SL
Re: HID Bulb Residue (thatguy1234)
are those bulbs hi/low? i dont know about that residue... ive yet to take my bulbs out and look at them....
Re: HID Bulb Residue (superskunk)
Yep they are hi/lo bi-xenon, I pulled them out because I had a mismatch in color and the seller sent me a different bulb, probably just due to time but they are a pain in the a** to work with and if someone can identify what this is, it would definatley be helpful. I just pulled it out and saw that.
The other one is basically the exact same, could it be due to cold such as like -21°F?? they always start up fine no misfire, they only issue is the passenger side takes about a minute to dim it is really bright at first. That's about it.
The residue is like a chalky white and the shield is browned.
Any ideas???
The other one is basically the exact same, could it be due to cold such as like -21°F?? they always start up fine no misfire, they only issue is the passenger side takes about a minute to dim it is really bright at first. That's about it.
The residue is like a chalky white and the shield is browned.
Any ideas???
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feloniousmonk
- Posts: 490
- Joined: Sun Apr 13, 2008 9:51 pm
Re: HID Bulb Residue (thatguy1234)
The burn mark is obviously from heat. Even though HIDs are only pulling 35w, they are pulling a lot of current (measured in amps). HID stands for high intensity discharge. Like the way that sounds, they can get very hot. Light is generated by a arc that forms between two electrodes through a body of xenon gas. If you've gone through high school, hopefully you've seen something like that in your high school chemistry class.
Where is the white residue? outside of the bulb glass or inside? I'm guessing it's heat related. Heat = energy. Combining two chemical elements to form a compound requires energy... plastic of the bulb base or glue used to affix the bulb to the base breaking down and forming the white residue/compound.
Most of these kits are cheaply made in China. If the bulb still works, I'd just ignore it. Whatever you do, don't touch the bulb glass.
Where is the white residue? outside of the bulb glass or inside? I'm guessing it's heat related. Heat = energy. Combining two chemical elements to form a compound requires energy... plastic of the bulb base or glue used to affix the bulb to the base breaking down and forming the white residue/compound.
Most of these kits are cheaply made in China. If the bulb still works, I'd just ignore it. Whatever you do, don't touch the bulb glass.
Re: HID Bulb Residue (feloniousmonk)
Wow thanks yes I have been through high school or am about to finish it rather, and yes I get the HID part but I just didn't expect to have a burn mark on the glare shield even though I do know that bulb does get hot. Just seems weird to me.
And the white residue that is kind of like powdery or gooy kind of mixed along the bulb is on the outside, I just wasn't sure what it was from if you look at the pictures i posted above it might help. it is on the base where the bulb comes together and on the bottom part of the bulb.
Any ideas I just want to know what this stuff is whether or not it does or doesn't effect the bulbs performance / output.
And the white residue that is kind of like powdery or gooy kind of mixed along the bulb is on the outside, I just wasn't sure what it was from if you look at the pictures i posted above it might help. it is on the base where the bulb comes together and on the bottom part of the bulb.
Any ideas I just want to know what this stuff is whether or not it does or doesn't effect the bulbs performance / output.
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feloniousmonk
- Posts: 490
- Joined: Sun Apr 13, 2008 9:51 pm
Re: HID Bulb Residue (thatguy1234)
FYI, I'm not talking down to you thinking you don't know what HID is. Just being thorough in case others search for info in the future.
If the residue is on the outside of the bulb not in the gas capsule where the light arc is generated, then it shouldn't affect performance of the bulb. The white residue reminds me of corrosion you'd find at battery terminals. Whatever it is, it's most likely a byproduct of the materials used and heat. No way to find out for sure unless you send it to a chemist to analyze.
Your lights light up and shut off right? Then I wouldn't be concerned. What I would do though, instead of feeding power to the ballasts directly from the factory headlight wiring, get a fused relay harness. Use the harness to source power from the battery or alternator and use the factory wiring only as the triggers to flip on and off the relay. Like I mentioned before, current draw from the ballasts are quite high at turn-on. Much higher than that of the halogen bulb the factory wiring is designed for so you don't want to consistently test your luck and hope the factory wiring doesn't fry. And, most importantly, make sure everything is well grounded.
Sample harness (lots of places sell similar product): http://www.ddmtuning.com/produ....html
Adding a diode to the harness to prevent current from reversing is also a good idea. 1N4005 diode, radioshack part# 276-1144.
Reference this diagram on use of diode:
If the residue is on the outside of the bulb not in the gas capsule where the light arc is generated, then it shouldn't affect performance of the bulb. The white residue reminds me of corrosion you'd find at battery terminals. Whatever it is, it's most likely a byproduct of the materials used and heat. No way to find out for sure unless you send it to a chemist to analyze.
Your lights light up and shut off right? Then I wouldn't be concerned. What I would do though, instead of feeding power to the ballasts directly from the factory headlight wiring, get a fused relay harness. Use the harness to source power from the battery or alternator and use the factory wiring only as the triggers to flip on and off the relay. Like I mentioned before, current draw from the ballasts are quite high at turn-on. Much higher than that of the halogen bulb the factory wiring is designed for so you don't want to consistently test your luck and hope the factory wiring doesn't fry. And, most importantly, make sure everything is well grounded.
Sample harness (lots of places sell similar product): http://www.ddmtuning.com/produ....html
Adding a diode to the harness to prevent current from reversing is also a good idea. 1N4005 diode, radioshack part# 276-1144.
Reference this diagram on use of diode: