HICAS

Forum for Nissan wheel fitment, tire selection, suspension setup and brake discussions.
burnout 180
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Whats HICAS and what does it do?

Also if i do a burnout and i leave to tire marks that means that i have a VLSD right?


pulsar gtr
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HICAS (High Capacity Actively Controlled Steering)

It is an AW steering system, ON Nissan cars, they are hydraulically controlled, they have a Rack & pinion on the back to turn the wheels a bit, very slightley, I think If I am not mistaken, the Hicas will stop working over 60K/hr.

And yes, if both wheels left burnout marks, you have VLSD, I believe all HICAS 240sx have VLSD Differentials.

PULSAR GTRRafi
Modified by pulsar gtr at 3:48 PM 5/13/2005

burnout 180
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Thanks but is their an advantage to have this.

Also ocasionally when i shift from neutral to first and engauge the clutch to launch, my lsd makes a click noise as if it slips a little before it locks and transfers the power to the wheels. Is that normal or is somthing going on.

originalsin
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for drifting hicas suck, makes exiting a drift suuper shaky and very hard to control, dont attemp to drift. solutions are swapping rear subframe of there are many kits the eliminate hicas

pulsar gtr
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Design wise, I am pretty sure there is a good advantage, All Z32 twinturbo came with HICAS and All Zz32 none turbo didn't have HICAS, if there wasn't a major advantage, Nissan wouldn't spent some money in design and production.

Lots of the Z32 twinturbo owners tend to illiminate this HICAS by using HKS illiminator kit (bypass the power steering lines I believe).

I personally don't know exactly why Nissan intoduced, but I know they wounldn't waste their money on something that might not make a difference.

PULSAR GTRRafi

Meantime
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The system was designed to enhance stability in mid-to-high speed corners by adjusting the rear toe 1 degree +/-. Hence it isn't good for drifting since it tries to stabilize the car while you are in the process of destabilizing it. It is better suited for grip racing.

burnout 180
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Also ocasionally when i shift from neutral to first and engauge the clutch to launch, my lsd makes a click noise as if it slips a little before it locks and transfers the power to the wheels. Is that normal or is somthing going on

pulsar gtr
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The clutch might be slipping, I doubt the Rear diff will. How is the condition on the driveshaft, that would make some noise if the U-joints aren't in a good condition.

PULSAR GTRRafi

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float_6969
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It's actually Highly Intellegent Controlled Active Steering. And on the 91-93 USDM it was Super HICAS, which was basically the second generation of it. As youc ould guess, it was called Super Highly Intellegen Controlled Active Steering. As has been stated, it is a 4 wheel steering system. It is computer controlled. (unlike the 4WS system on the preludes) The degree of movement and direction are determined by input from the speed sensor and a steering angle sensor located in the steering column. From that information, the computer outputs a signal to actuators located on the underside of the car which control the amount of fluid that is forced into the rear steering rack, causing a flex in the rear suspension, causing the rear tires to move. Depending on the conditions, the rear wheels may point in the same direction as the front wheels, or in the opposite, or momentarily in the opposite, and then back to the same. I have personally owned a Super HICAS 240sx and I enjoyed it. I wouldn't recommend it for use in autocross as it can intiate in the middle of a turn and cause problems. As for everyday driving and ESPECIALLY on the highway, it's very nice and makes the car feel much more stable. It does have a slight learning curve to it.

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float_6969
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burnout 180 wrote:Also ocasionally when i shift from neutral to first and engauge the clutch to launch, my lsd makes a click noise as if it slips a little before it locks and transfers the power to the wheels. Is that normal or is somthing going on
Nissan uses a Viscous coupler type of Limited slip. This type of differential will make no more noise than an open type differential. If you are hearing any sort of clunk, I would start by checking the Carrier bearing on the driveshaft or the U joints on the axles.

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biosehnsucht
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Nissan has both electrically and hydraulicly actuated HICAS systems. 240's had the hydraulic type, Z32's I believe had both (earlier were hydraulic then switching to electronic)

One thing I want to explore sometime down the road is if its possible to use a S13 HICAS rack (for the better steering ratio + sensor) with Z32 electronic version hicas brain (assuming, like the S13, its a seperate box), and a Z32 rear subframe (proven to be attatchable to a S13 but you must use either custom or Z32 rear shocks, as t he lower mounting design is different) in order to get hicas without having to run hydraulic lines to the back... of course this would cost tons of money and time, and ain't happening any time soon..

sdtouge
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is there any kit that you can switch on and off?

then you could change back and forth if you wanted for grip/drift whatever.

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c-rad
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sdtouge wrote:is there any kit that you can switch on and off?

then you could change back and forth if you wanted for grip/drift whatever.
I don't really know how well it works, but here...

http://w1.igateway.com/clients...=form

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ArticDragon192
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Can a non-HICAS S13 have HICAS swapped into it pretty easily if you cn find a donor HICAS S13?

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biosehnsucht
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you would have to swap:hicas power steering pumphicas hardlines from the front of the car all the way to the backhicas crap in the rear subframehicas computerhicas wiring harness (incl. splicing into existing harness in car as it won't just plug in)hicas steering rack (w/ hicas steering sensor)

so no, I wouldn't say easily.

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elwesso
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Another way you could disable it is to pull one of hte plugs so that it goes into failsafe mode... If the HICAS light is on, it wont do anythign...

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Dori Dori
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ArticDragon192 wrote:Can a non-HICAS S13 have HICAS swapped into it pretty easily if you cn find a donor HICAS S13?
Umm, don't do it. Hicas sucks.

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nismofly
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if you just disable it its bad too because then the wheels can just turn how they want, when you disable it i think those kits have a bar to lock the rear tires in a normal position

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Dori Dori
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No. The pump is still sending fluid to the hydraulic unit so the wheels don't just move freely. If you have bad ball joints though (like me), there will be some slight play on the rears.

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nismofly
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i think the thing i was talking about was when you disable the pump and the lines and everything, and just leave it...iono i read it somewhere on here a while back

anyway sounds like a pain in the arse...

glad i never had it to begin with!


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