Post by
jdm_master_X »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/jdm-master-x-u30964.html
Thu Jan 22, 2009 11:16 am
I've noticed for awhile now that finding physical differences between the HICAS and NON HICAS front steering rack is pretty difficult until you install a HICAS rack and turn your wheels. The HICAS rack requires 2.6 turns lock to lock while the NORMAL rack requires 3.1 according to the FSM.
I however, sat down last night with the HICAS rack I purchased off a member here and decided to compare the two side by side in as many aspects as I could. This thread is to help you all determine that you really got a HICAS rack instead of being told that it was one. I couldn't take pictures, but I took the time to make illustrations of how to figure the differences.
**BEFORE BEGINNING THIS THREAD** I want you all to know this test was done with both steering racks on a worktable WITH tie rod assemblies removed.
The Steering Gear On this section of the steering rack you will have this part that connects to the steering shaft. On the top side of the steering gear assembly, the NON HICAS rack has 23 casted on, whereas the HICAS version has 25 casted instead.
Measured differences It is fairly common knowledge that the HICAS steering rack gives slightly better steering response compared to normal S13 steering racks. They both maintain the same steering radius, except the HICAS rack can complete turns lock to lock about half a turn faster than the normal rack.
Using a tape measure, torque angle gauge, and vice grips to turn the gear, your measurements begin at the tip of the actual rack at full lock to the base of the housing. Turn the gear with the vice grips at 360º and measure how much of the rack is exposed on the opposite side. BOTH STEERING RACKS AT FULL LOCK (both directions)= 6.0".
Heres a listing of measurements that I took to prove this point:
NORMAL360º OPPOSITE LOCK = 1.5"TOTAL OF DEGREES LOCK TO LOCK = 1200º
HICAS 360º OPPOSITE LOCK = 2.0"TOTAL OF DEGREES LOCK TO LOCK=1100º
These numbers are averages of testing and measuring five times or so, but are very comparible results should you attempt to measure. The test was done in the wee hours of the night, lack of sleep, and my general distaste towards mathematics.
Hopefully this thread will clear up any confusion and major concern regarding the purchase of any HICAS rack. I'm sure nobody here would pay $600+ for a new rack and try to get it cheaper and used whenever possible. However, what may happen is you find a HICAS car, buy the rack, and figure that it was a remanufatured rack and has the slower steering ratio. This will save you the trouble of buying and installing a part that is SOO rare.
Thanks for reading!