Definitely do the tension rod bushings - you'll notice a big improvement.MJC wrote:I do know though, that the car is now 12 years old and the bushings aren't in the best shape. I was considering buying tension rods and/or upper control arms or other suspension components. I was wondering what you all recommend as being the best parts to buy for the suspension of the G50?
Man DHL takes a LOT LESS time to gte to indiana compared to like fedex/UPS and especially USPS...Jeff Williams wrote:The upper links are usually what makes noises. They are about $90 each. The tension rod bushings are about $25 but require a press to insert.
You could beat them out, and beat new ones in, if inclined, but you could also beat the dirt of your car with a hammer, but I recommend a sponge with soap & water.
The tension rods are probably messing up your toe & wearing out your tires, while the upper links are messing up your camber and wearing out your tires. An alignment before replacing these two things is a total waste of money.
As far s the HICAS light, Wes is right on the money. Make sure you ahve no leaks under the car. A lot of the hoses get soft and start to seep. Tighten all the clamps you can, and this hsould help.
While you are down there, look at your steering rack boots. turn the wheels all the way left and right, to extend the boot, and make sure they are not broken or torn, If they are, replace them. They are about $25 each, and you have to remove the tierod to replace them. be sure to count the turns when taking the tierods off, so you can put them back on the same number of turns.
You might as well do all of this at once, because an alignment is recommended after all.
AND FINALLY, if yor struts are shot, replace them and the strut dust boots and bump stops while you are at it.
Get your parts fron EVERYTHING INFINITI (advertisement at the right) Joe gives good discounts to NICL, and somethings shipping breaks. They use DHL, which takes a while sometimes, expecially to Alabama.
Later..
LOL quite a step..... TO be honest, i still do miss my old Q.. Man that thing was a treat on the highway... So smooth, so composed, it was perfect..Jeff Williams wrote:Sounds like you are getting the "bug" Take a look at Wes' Q. He has the blues, Cali Customs, adjustable links, Z32 brakes, forged 350z wheels, custom exhaust, NICO ECU, nitrous, blah blah blah
I guess I am a little jealous since he bought Fred's car. He went from "Mr Pie Pans" to "Mr. Nitrous".
Haha, yes my friend. I have always loved the car, and it is quite disturbing to be modifying another car. My supra isn't even completed and it has more money into it than I care to think about. 19" HRE's, built motor, coilovers, swaybars, hids, bodywork, full turbo upgrade, standalone ecu, full fuel system, etc etc etc...it never ends.Jeff Williams wrote:Sounds like you are getting the "bug" Take a look at Wes' Q. He has the blues, Cali Customs, adjustable links, Z32 brakes, forged 350z wheels, custom exhaust, NICO ECU, nitrous, blah blah blah
I guess I am a little jealous since he bought Fred's car. He went from "Mr Pie Pans" to "Mr. Nitrous".
MJC wrote:Checked the manual...said Dexron II ATF or equivalent, I have to assume Dexron III would be fine as well. Thanks for the help guys.
Presume you can link to that?MJC wrote:Edit - I did search - But basically all I found was people saying the HICAS light was OK to drive with.
I know I said that once, and UNLESS the light is on due to low fluid, then its not hurting anything to drive with the HICAS light on because hicas is simply disabled with it on...maxnix wrote:Presume you can link to that?
Don't think anyone with any time here and familiarity with all the posts has said that.
Your fluid is probably low and it is definitely not a good idea to operate it in that condition.
Presume you care to tell me why?maxnix wrote:Presume you can link to that?
Don't think anyone with any time here and familiarity with all the posts has said that.
Your fluid is probably low and it is definitely not a good idea to operate it in that condition.