Hicas cancel kit-Help!!

[Project S13]

I have been searching for a hicas cancel kit for hours with no luck! I was planning on doing an lsd upgrade but I just got off the phone with kaazusa and they said I need to cancel hicas first. I had been wonderingif I'd need to but I never expected it to be so difficult to find a hicas canceller kit. -_-;

All I have found is that spl parts has some new tie rods (I think?) that eliminate hicas but they are in the $430 range which is a lot to spend to do it that way. I have seen eliminator bars for sale for about 13,000 yen (~130 us dollars) but I don't speak japanese and I haven't seen these companies selling thier kits stateside...

Any help would be greatly appreciated as hicas has got to go sooner or later, especially since it's in the way of my tuning now.

[Twinchy]

try phase 2 http://www.store.yahoo.com/pha....html

they sell a escort racing 240sx hicas elimnator bar for $144.45i hope that helps

[Dookie]

you could also get the tomei lock too, with is 144 bucks or so, disables it electronically as well

[Project S13]

Thanks for the quick responses guys.

I am currently trying to decide between the escort and the tomei lock kits. I know that tomei has a pretty good history and make plenty of quality parts, but I'm uncertain of which to go with.

One is a "bar type", and the other is a "shim" type. That's what I'm calling them anyway. The escort racing kit is basically a bar that replaces the hydraulic steering unit and holds the rear wheels in line. The Tomei kit appears to keep the hydraulic steering unit in place, but puts brass shims in the free space it has where the wheels would be able to pivot side to side. The tomie kit is kind of a challenge to install compared to the escort racing one. I'll post up some links so we can all get a better idea of how each kit works and maybe future people with this question will find what they need thru the search option.

here's what I have been able to find...

A link for someone using a stillen kit on a 300sx, this is the bar type (vs. the shim type) kit and essentially how it would work. Note that he had a h*ll of a time getting it and doesn't recommend them, but it still shows the basics of the install.

http://stillensucks.com/Z32/HI....html

And here is a VERY informative link for installing the tomei kit on a skyline. Again the install to a 240 will be a bit different but still ought to run about the same. It seems a bit more complicated because it depends on being able to work hicas in the hicas check mode to install the brass shims. At least the way these guys did it.

http://homepages.tig.com.au/~robs/hicaslock.htm

I'm trying to decide which of these would be better. I would prefer to be able to put the original hicas system back on and into effect at some point, like if I were to sell the car, which makes me shy away from tomei's kit slightly, but thiers seems to be better in terms of the whole system. Installing the shims seems a little tricky too. The escort racing kit would save some weight.

***Also***if the escort bar kit wasn't quite the right length it has a slotted hole for some wiggle room to assure a good fit and since it bolts up to the chassis (see stillen link) it would hold the rears in place even if there were a little bit of play. If the tomie kits' shims were a less than perfect fit, wouldn't there be nothing stopping the wheels from pivoting aside from the supposed oem lock hicas has when it detects a malfunction?

Any thoughts on which kit would be the better choice, given these concerns?

[Tsukai240]

omg that story about the Z was foocked up! sigh..... any way i want to eliminate hicas by way of a used subframe, pump and h/p hose. i'm not sure if it would work becaus i haven't studied it yet.

anyway it seems like you are already set in going with the bar style. just pray that it isn't a POS like the stillen thing. the bushing style seems way to involved plus you would still have the hydro. ram with its 8 or so pounds of flab.

[Project S13]

I would rather use the tomei actually, but the install looks like it has rife opportunities to go wrong, and I'd *really* like the electronic component of it but there is no way I'm paying for both. btw yeah you can replace all that subframe stuff if you have the parts/donor card. There's some decent info from the search function that I found about it too.

[drifter_for_life06]

i have NO EXPERIENCE with HICAS what so-ever, but i think i heard somewhere you can cancel it in your garage alone? not sure on that, im 90% sure im wrong but if im right, hey, tahts why i posted it

[Tsukai240]

you can always pull the fuse.

[drifter_for_life06]

maybe thats what i heard?

anyone else hear of something different about what i said above?

[Project S13]

I have heard this...though I have no idea where this mysterious fuse is, only heard of it and not much about it. If that is true then it's a start but it would still be good to reinforce the rear with a lock kit of some kind. I'll be sure to let you guys know how it goes, whichever one I end up ordering.

[drifter_for_life06]

cool deal

hope everything works out for teh best

i tihnk it might be a "NICO rumor" about the fuse but who knows

[justmerging]

The best way would be to replace the rear subframe with a non-hicas one and just loop the pressure line. It's not that hard and it's a rear subframe should only be like $200. they should also be easy to find nowadays cause s13's keep getting wrecked.

Might I ask why you want to get rid of it so badly?

[Project S13]

Well I've been modding my car...very slowly for over a year and a half. Maybe two years now. I decided to do the intelligent thing and decide where my priorities are before I spent a penny, and I decided I wanted the car to be drift/auto-x focused. I'd like to be able to enjoy driving it for DD sometimes, but it does not have to be my daily driver--just street legal.

So when you say drift and hicas in the same sentence everybody rushed to say how bad it is and get rid of it, blah blah blah. Really it doens't bother me that much. The stability for autocross is certainly interesting, though not always welcome, and when I drift I just go ahead and do it ignoring hicas, it still happens fine.

But I started researching my next mod and I've become interested in a 2-way lsd. I got off the phone with kaaz two days ago and they said I'd have to cancel hicas to use the lsd, the rear steer under a much stronger wheel lockup is probably emphasized greatly with that and maybe the rear steering would cause the clutch plates of the lsd to break in at an off angle. Anyway it was thier suggestion and ultimately it will allot me better control over the vehicle, even if I have to imrpove my skills to corner in the same way (if hicas was really *that* helpful. Thus excess traction it made caused the car to push in mid corner the way I drove it last)

So...there ya go. Drift/autocross ...not having hicas will make both of those more enjoyable, though I may lose time autocrossing at first, who knows. I like trail braking/throttle steer even if it doesn't make the car slide out.

Thanks, I'll have to look ito the subframe option....didn't know it was not ,much more than a cancel kit, I thought you needed more parts...would you care to elaborate on that?

[Project S13]

I searched a little more for that specifically and it sounded like a pretty big chore. -_- I don't know if that is something i want to get into right now, when everything on the car works great anyway. All that would do is save some weight right?

[drifter_for_life06]

you said drift/auto-x

isnt HICAS a preferred option in Auto-X? i know not too much on the subject, but i know tis not prefered in drifting

[Project S13]

It does alright in autocross but I can live with or without it honestly. Technically anything that messed with the car that is not under your direct control (clutch, brake, gas, steering, shifter, ebrake) that changes how the car hnadles mid turn is not desireable for high skill level imho. I don't have a high skill level but I do want to play with throttle oversteer (the autocross type, not show drifting). I'm willing to try driving without it to have the opportunity to mount a nice clutch lsd

[phuphyter]

the fuse is in the fuse box, the one in the driver's side panel. its labeled "electronics". you'll know if you pulled the right one when you see the hicas light illuminated.