Hi all, I'm back.... 2006 M35 (2WD) P0335

[AG-M35]

This is a 2006 M35 base (2WD) / owned since new / VG maintenance schedule /
(2022) A couple years ago, finally at 120,000 miles, the valve covers started leaking and that was the first major repair / new aluminum covers (red), tubes, Spark plugs, PCV, new hoses, belts, but I didn't replace the belt idler bearings and occasionally have to put up with a bit of squeal on cold start (even tho the belts are at spec adjustment).
2023 - Alternator failed and was replaced by a rebuilt OEM unit - no issues thus far other than that long bolt coming loose once and having to reset with red lok-tite...
2024 - the bank 1 cam position sensor went away and it was replaced with an Hitachi unit. I have the other bank but it's a bit difficult to get behind the MAF...

Today, 123,875 miles/ car stalled in traffic, 95 degree heat, NO dash Lights, just stopped while at a traffic light. A/C fan running, radio on, Headlights on, no indication of anything amiss. Only happened to see tach drop to zero that made me aware of issue. Turned ignition off and tried reignition.... first attempt had no result. Turned everything off and tried again.... engine cranked a longer while than usual but started and we made it home. About a half mile from our place, the steering got heavy as if the belt had broken, but what does that have to do with stalling.... then I thought the alternator froze up and belt broke, but we got home....
In the driveway, I removed the shrouding from the front of the engine, started it and got out to measure the voltage at the battery, but there was only 12.3 volts and then realized it had stalled again, but the AC fan was still running and masking the still engine.
Restart and the alternator was measured out fine at 14.5 V, all the belts were intact, so the PS pump was apparently in good stead and nothing obvious mechanically. I connected an old Actron code reader and it revealed the P0335 code (Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit). So I have a spare Hitachi sensor and the FS manual, which describes the code, but cannot find the section on installing the new one....help?

Thx

[VStar650CL]

There won't be R&I instructions for something like that. It will be under the car on the back left side of the engine, I think it's at the rear of the upper pan but might be in the bellhousing flange. Black 3-wire connector with Red, White, Black wires. The parts book says it is the same sensor for both cams and the crank, so your spare should work fine.

[AG-M35]

(Thought this had been sent earlier....) Thanks for the help...

The crank sensor has been replaced, probably the easiest of the three sensors (discounting having to get underneath..) and its been raining on/off here for the past 3 days. This AM was the first opportunity in getting things back together.

Almost done and noticed the hood closure switch had a wire broken off. I've never been in that area except to put a bit of white grease on the mechanism and have never had a light indicating anything was amiss with the hood.

The wire is broken off, flush at the back of the switch and not repairable, so I'm thinking of leaving the switch off the mechanism, soldering the two wires together and hoping this is acceptable to the security system. I have the FSManual and can read the circuits, which indicate this switch signal only comes into play if the hood is opened without the key being nearby but doesn't go into specific detail regarding the operation.

Presuming the closed circuit jives with a closed hood.... would you consider this as a valid train of thought?

TIA

[VStar650CL]

The FSM says contacts open when the hood is closed. Check the IPDM pin reference, pin 60. Slightly weird that it would simply break off, are you sure you don't have rodents?

[AG-M35]

Ok, thank you for that. The wire looked to be broken flush with the switch, like from fatigue or something. No chance of cleaning it up and reconnecting, unless thru microsurgery. Like I said, I've owned the car from 2006 and have never had a reason to be there, except for the lube bit. Hopefully this doesn't cause and issue if left like it is.

[AG-M35]

Ok, it's been a while but back at it. Last time I was here, the hood switch issue seemingly passed. As I was buttoning things up, engine running fine, no Psteering issues, I noticed that only one fan was running. I wondered if these fans were staged to come on as needed. I've never seen only one running by itself and went online to get some opinions on checking them.
What I did run into is this Infiniti diagnostic mode embedded in the IPDM... I tried it this AM and the program did start... but only did the wipers, as far as I could tell. The diagnostic codes were all cleared beforehand and I tried a couple times, but it never got very far. Now I'm wondering if that broken hood wire has sabotaged the procedure. Looking for a hood switch indicates they are unobtanium. Plenty of 2007 and up ( C switch model) but no 2006 B switch models.
How can I test the fan s individually?

thx

[VStar650CL]

The fans are straight DC, you can just disconnect from the control module and jump power and ground to the pins. They aren't staged, they're supposed to run in tandem. One running and one dead means either the fan is blown or one of the driver FET's in the control module is blown. The same rule applies as when replacing parts in a blower motor: If the fan is bad but the driver is good, replace the fan. If the fan seems good but the driver is blown, replace both (because the driver probably died from the fan drawing excessive startup current).

[AG-M35]

Thank you ......

[VStar650CL]

[VStar650CL]

Looking for a hood switch indicates they are unobtanium. Plenty of 2007 and up ( C switch model) but no 2006 B switch models.

I'm not sure what you're looking at, but InfinitiPartsDeal shows the original part 65601-EH100 fitting production dates from 12/04 thru '07 and the superseding part 65601-EJ70B fitting everything from 12/04 through '10. Both are still available (albeit pricey, $180+) but there are several used EJ70B's on Ebay in the $70 range. I don't see any other applicable numbers for the gen3 M's, so maybe you're looking at a wrong part?

[AG-M35]

Ok, I was misinterpreting the data and only looking at the dealer sites, thanks

[AG-M35]

Ok, all good with the fan system. IPDM diags run fine and complete. ( pretty impressive) ... Only thing left is the Cold Start up belt squeal. I had purchased new belt idlers from Infinitipartsdeals.com over a year ago when replacing the alternator, but when taking everything apart, realized the bearings in the new "NSK" idlers are only half as wide as the original Infiniti pieces. The originals are fine, so they weren't swapped out. Today, got underneath, removed the front underside weather shield and loosened the idlers, remove the belt on the Alternator side.... belt is fine, pulley grooves on the PS Pump and Alternator looko fine, turn fine, larger idler wheel spins fine and idler bearings on lower idler pulleys feel very good, so everything got put back together.
With that, the belts were adjusted as per book spec ( belt deflection, etc) and the car was cranked up and the squeal was immediate and very pronounced inside the garage. I blipped the throttle and it varied, but I couldn't get out and in front quick enough to see it there was anything obvious, and it went away before I got there... Once it goes away, it doesn't repeat until next cold or almost cold startup... Could this be a Power Steering pump problem? The pulley turns fine without anything odd about the feel there is no obvious leakage or looseness. / thx

[VStar650CL]

You might have crap in the belt grooves. That deprives the belt of traction, so even though it looks fine, it can't seat properly. Bizarrely, they call that "hydroplaning" even though there's no hydro involved. Try taking a fine wire brush to all of the grooved pulleys.

[AG-M35]

Thanks.. watch this space...

[AG-M35]

. Ok this space is active again....
The belts are newish, the idler bearings are original but absolutely great shape.. The belt(s) were adjusted precisely as FSM states ~20 Ft/lbs at mid deflection... The car's been out for 3 days or so and no squeal.... until yesterday, when backing out and as soon as I turned the wheel to line up with the street, the noise developed and articulated with the turning of the steering wheel. So I know it's the PS Pump. What am I in for now. Swapping out the pump looks a bit straight forward. I'll probably partially flush the system before removing the old one. Any recommendations for something other than an OEM pump? Any pointers? thx