hey i was was looking on e-bay and i saw this chip,..i was thinking about buying it but i thought i would let you guys take a look at it first.let me know about it ok?http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...33597
p.s.i can't figure out how to add it as a hyperlink so you'll have to copy/paste.
hey what do you guys think about this mod chip??
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Q45tech
- Moderator
- Posts: 14296
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
The Q does not have a seperate inlet air temperature sensor like the G20.........so nowhere to connect /modify/fool with a resistor!
One could get very esoteric and discover where slight changes in voltages/resistances might fool the ecu into doing things differently.
The MAF voltage and the coolant temp sensor [in summer heat], knock sensor output voltage level..........are your only choices.
More power on a Q motor can only be created by leaning the fuel mixture [when it goes excessively rich] [don't let things knock or melt] and changing the timing advance [don't let things knock or melt].
When the chains strech a degree or two from age the crank angle sensor [driven from the driverside exhaust cam] is after the stretch............so a 15 degree reading with a timing light might be 15,14,13 real degrees.........try 17 degrees with a timing light if you have 100k+...[do not think that you can run 19] ............good knock sensors will provide safety at 17 indicated........except maybe in very hot conditions when the coolant temp sensor reading [200F] should retard the ecu a few degrees.
Study how zener diodes work and how a rising voltage can be clamped and finely adjusted..[independently of the source voltage].......[watch out zeners are temperature sensitive so a thermistor will be required to compensate for differing under hood temperatures.
Study how the signals from the HVAC controller tells the ecu the AC is on and how this might [detune the ecu a bit] because summer is hotter.
Coolant temp sensors are accurate [within a few degrees] but the ecu can be off by 2-3F in its translation of the signal...........this only matters in you [ecu] are reading 195F when it is actually 193F or 200F when 198F or 205F when 203F.A summer 5F lowering of readings might be beneficial but a REAL lowering of the temperature WOULD BE BETTER!All in all it is less expensive [in long run] and less likely to cause problem if you just get a JWT ecu.....[which will create more power than any tweaks I can think of doing]!
One could get very esoteric and discover where slight changes in voltages/resistances might fool the ecu into doing things differently.
The MAF voltage and the coolant temp sensor [in summer heat], knock sensor output voltage level..........are your only choices.
More power on a Q motor can only be created by leaning the fuel mixture [when it goes excessively rich] [don't let things knock or melt] and changing the timing advance [don't let things knock or melt].
When the chains strech a degree or two from age the crank angle sensor [driven from the driverside exhaust cam] is after the stretch............so a 15 degree reading with a timing light might be 15,14,13 real degrees.........try 17 degrees with a timing light if you have 100k+...[do not think that you can run 19] ............good knock sensors will provide safety at 17 indicated........except maybe in very hot conditions when the coolant temp sensor reading [200F] should retard the ecu a few degrees.
Study how zener diodes work and how a rising voltage can be clamped and finely adjusted..[independently of the source voltage].......[watch out zeners are temperature sensitive so a thermistor will be required to compensate for differing under hood temperatures.
Study how the signals from the HVAC controller tells the ecu the AC is on and how this might [detune the ecu a bit] because summer is hotter.
Coolant temp sensors are accurate [within a few degrees] but the ecu can be off by 2-3F in its translation of the signal...........this only matters in you [ecu] are reading 195F when it is actually 193F or 200F when 198F or 205F when 203F.A summer 5F lowering of readings might be beneficial but a REAL lowering of the temperature WOULD BE BETTER!All in all it is less expensive [in long run] and less likely to cause problem if you just get a JWT ecu.....[which will create more power than any tweaks I can think of doing]!