I'm looking to upgrade my rotors/pads when I do my brakes and after reading your install post, I just had to ask....

Any problems?

Still happy with the swap?

Thanks

Jim

I love them....

I put them on about 3800 miles ago. This weekend was the test. I raced in 4 time trials at Firebirds short track. 20 min each time. The temp at the track was 98 degrees!

I disassembled the front and rear brakes yesterday to inspect them. The front brakes are still like new.

The back brakes did get very very hot, but never had ANY fade. The rotors 'were' zinc plated... but I got them hot enought to melt off the zinc at the rotors edge and around the pads contact point about an inch. The boiling point of zinc plating is around 1600 F The pads were painted red with 1200 degree paint. You can see in the pictures below that the paint boiled off. The pad material and rear rotors however are fine!







I would do everything exactly the same if I had to do brakes again!

This is the company I used for my rotors and the front pads. They gave me a full set of pads and 4 new drilled/slotted zinc plated rotors for $339 shipped. Hard to beat that price! They have their own machines and make everything in house.

http://www.ocautosports.com/index.html

Again these brakes are a huge improvement over the factory brakes. They never had any fade even when ran hot enought to burn 1200 degree paint and boil zinc plating. I think that says everything!
Modified by gwoods at 3:14 PM 4/15/2008

wow, I'm gonna have to buy me some of these!

Yep,

AZFerrell saw them last night

$339 for a set of 4 rotors and all pads!!

ya, that sounds awesome

i think you gave "HOT LAP" a new meaning

I can't believe that you got the pads and rotors past 1600 degrees. I knew they would get to be about 400 but i never thought they would get that hot!

DJ

Have you changed out your brake fluid too Jeff?

Maybe some steel brake lines?

I was going to mention to him about braided brake lines last night but we were interrupted by some crazy drunk neighbor who wanted to fight me about where she parks her car... I think those would be a perfect match for him... I don't know how well they work though... Jeff said he was thoroughly pleased with the brakes... I still can't believe they were covered in Zinc powder.... CRAZY!

yeah that was pretty funny!!! You know that she isn't going to remember any of that fight in the morning though... too bad.

I'll probably change the brake fluid at 40k (9,000 miles) when I do the coolant, spark plugs and belt.

The next track event isn't until October so I have some time. I wore out the front slicks last Sunday too so I need another 2 Kumho V710's at $270 + shipping each

Yea,brakes easilly get up to those temps on the track.You should see them glow bright red during evening events.Makes for some great kodak moments.Definately do the stainless lines,but wait till You change the fluid,so You only have to bleed them once.You should change the fluid soon,and definately before the next track event.About those kumhos,You should check out Toyo RA1's.They are a DOT rated track tire.They have some tread on them,so You can use them on the street without drawing attention to Yourself from cops.I dont know if they will last longer than the kumhos,but they are only around $200 each.On My 03 Cobra,they lasted 2 weekend events.That's 4 days,about 16 sessions.Chapman BMW has a race tire division.I think they are near You.They had great prices on track tires.They had a big rig that traveled to road races and they would sell, mount, and balance them for You cheaper than any where else I had found.

Thanks man I'll try ordering the Kumho's from Chapman!

I like having a full slick for the track instead of a DOT treaded slick. The Kumho V710's have a DOT number stamped on the sidewall and I have driven them on the street twice

Also the rear tires probably have 50-60% of their tread left and I am planning to just move them up front and put the new slicks on the rear. Then in two sessions the fronts will be toast and I'll move the rears up and buy two more. Kind of spreads the cost out over 4 sessions.

The only other tire I would consider would be the Hoosier RS6

Thanks man! Im ordering today.... Then I just need to get some time that I can use a friends lift and get to work on the exhaust....I still need to take the G into the body shop to fix the front where I was hit but Im having so much fun driving the Hell out of this car I just dont want to be without it!

Tell them you heard about them from NICO. I told them that I posted on here and sent them a link to the post.

It would be nice to get a NICO discount!

for sure

and tell them I'm considering them for my next set of brakes

find out how much they charge for the steel-braided brake lines too

What kind of brake fluid are you going to be switching too next?

I'll just be using the stock Infiniti brake fluid. I'm on the fence on the steel brake lines. If I'm only at the track 4-6 times a year it may not be worth it? That and I really really HATE bleeding brakes.

I can't remember what pads you're running, but somehow I doubt they would be able to run that hot without any kind of fade and still be streetable. Hell, I'd speculate it might be pretty hard justy to reach that temperature even if fade wasn't an issue. Either way, so long as they handle the application well, no need to complain.

As for brake fluid, if you are tracking the car, you should be diligent about replaceing brake fluid often. I did mine at least before each track event and at least bled them after each event. Perhaps invest in a one-man bleeding system or speed bleeders. Vacuum pumps can work, but tend to suck if you don't have a thread sealer on the bleed screw as it sucks in air around the threads when you loosen the bleed screw. In either case, there are products out there that can make bleeding and flushing little harder than removing the wheels and tires. Its worth it for the safety of yourself, your passengers and other cars on the track and the road.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic and will absorb water over time. The more water is absorbed, the lower the boiling point of the fluid becomes. Fresh DOT 4 fluid will likely be more than adequate for most street cars on the race track. It's only a little more than DOT 3 and easy to find at your local autoparts store.

As for stainless steel braided lines, it's probably not going to make a big improvement now as your lines are stioll quite new. But over time, the rubber in your lines will begin to lose some of its rigidity and swell under pressure. I'd recommend them in the long run, but probably not a priority at this point...

C-Kwik wrote:I can't remember what pads you're running, but somehow I doubt they would be able to run that hot without any kind of fade and still be streetable. Hell, I'd speculate it might be pretty hard justy to reach that temperature even if fade wasn't an issue. Either way, so long as they handle the application well, no need to complain.

As for brake fluid, if you are tracking the car, you should be diligent about replaceing brake fluid often. I did mine at least before each track event and at least bled them after each event. Perhaps invest in a one-man bleeding system or speed bleeders. Vacuum pumps can work, but tend to suck if you don't have a thread sealer on the bleed screw as it sucks in air around the threads when you loosen the bleed screw. In either case, there are products out there that can make bleeding and flushing little harder than removing the wheels and tires. Its worth it for the safety of yourself, your passengers and other cars on the track and the road.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic and will absorb water over time. The more water is absorbed, the lower the boiling point of the fluid becomes. Fresh DOT 4 fluid will likely be more than adequate for most street cars on the race track. It's only a little more than DOT 3 and easy to find at your local autoparts store.

As for stainless steel braided lines, it's probably not going to make a big improvement now as your lines are stioll quite new. But over time, the rubber in your lines will begin to lose some of its rigidity and swell under pressure. I'd recommend them in the long run, but probably not a priority at this point...

The fronts are ceramic and look brand new.... the rears are redstuff EBC pads and still look good, although the paint boiled off . I doubt there is any damage to the pads. I disassembled the brakes on Monday and inspected them.

My brakes still 'feel' the same as they did before the track meet and I have 100% more stopping power then a stock brake set.

I think the stock fluid will be fine for another 9000 miles... keep in mind the car is a 2007? I'll trade the car on something faster sometime in 2010 so I probably will not be the owner that gets to replace brake lines.