Hey all, greets from New Orleans. Over a year ago (December 2006), I began the restoration of a very good condition base q45 i got from Dallas. It used to belong to a doctor and I got it with 99k on it. the car was originally from CANADA. I found this out when trying to get a service history on it. What matters is than mine was born on 6/93---METAL BACKED CHAIN GUIDES from the factory... It's midnight blue(paint code BK8) with the bbs wheels on it....tan interior. I need to once again thank all you guys that helped me get it up to snuff in the beginning (Wes, Jesda, Q45tech, Maxnix, Ceningolmo, and Goodyq45 to name a few). I had 3 dreaded injectors ohming high, plus a buzzing fuel pump when I got it and through this forum's input, my car is mechanically sound now. It's taken me a year but it truly rocks. I have been ridiculously busy between finishing our house since Katrina BY HAND, resurrecting my Q, Grand Jury duty every Thursday (yummy), and running K-Paul's in the French Quarter this past year, and I didn't want to post until I could list my fixes with the hopes it could help someone else. I will post pics as soon as I can..Wes, I may need your help in doing so.
Here it goes...
7 of 8 injectors are new oem with upper and lower rings. Only original injector still ohms at 10.8...woohoo. Remember to depressurize the system before replacing injectors or you will hydrolock the motor...rods go kaboom at startup! Search for the tutorial. All fuel lines were inspected and still supple. The fuel line that attaches to the pressure regulator that gives you the gas smell in the cabin on a cold day was tightened...no problem since. While the plenum was off, all vac lines were replaced. With allen wrenches, flatheads, and a gun cleaning kit, the carbon was scraped out of the egr passages (carboned solid..total blockage), in addition to the egr tube to the manifold. I replaced THE WHOLE egr system (valves, solenoid, and temp sensor). This cured the CEL I'd get on a long trip...no more. Nothing but smooth idle and wicked throttle reponse. Please clean the plenum before any further diagnosis in idle and acceleration is done....airflow is essential.
New oem fuel pump...FPCU was cherry...I replaced the fuel pump the day after the buzz started, so there was no time for the amperage draw to fry it.
PCV valve was replaced, in addition to new oem knock sensors. Throttle body was cleaned. MAF was cleaned as well...good harness.
IAC valve was cleaned and reset with a new gasket per Dennis' tutorial.
NEW oem fan...cracks in the old one. Fan clutch is aok. New battery (strongest Autozone battery available) along with both cables.
NEW OEM alternator, plus ac compressor, drier, and ac pressure valve. All belts replaced. New plugs (NGK's) as well.
I had the brake system bled, and the pads were new when I bought it...oem.
New Tokico blues all aroud, in addition to upper mounts and bushings...corners like a champ.
I literally went and undid every single transmission and engine harness and cleaned them and added dielectric grease for connectivity. Between that and and alternator replacement...all electrical gremlins are gone. As Dennis preaches, NEW OEM ONLY...redundancy in diodes is why an oem alternator is so expensive...it works to keep this electrically beefed car stable where aftermarket parts WILL FAIL.
New OEM O2 sensors...bought the mechanic beer for his clean job for such a biotch of a job.
Engine has been running on synthetic ever since...no hla ticking...happy leak free motor.
Differential fluid change...no vibration at speed or upon acceleration.
I placed a thin later of clear silicone in the drainage valley(entire perimeter) of the sunroof where the assembly meets the car frame (a seam) to prevent leakage. If anyone ever has a wet headliner or water in their overhead lights, this will cure it. Also make sure the 2 drain holes at each front corner of the sunroof drain valley are free of debris.
transmission...pan drop and filter replacement with new pan gasket and new screws to prevent leaks. I've had 2 flushes done since and the transmission shifts fine...2 to 3 shift has improved vastly. I ohmed the shift resistor...it's fine. The 2 to 3 shift gremlin could be a slow upper solenoid or the upper gear itself has lost too much friction material. I haven't inspected the TCU yet. I still need to replace to black external filter as well (Joe from Scottsdale Infiniti has them.) When the transmission goes, either my car will go to T3 in Atlanta or to Angelo's Transmissions here locally for a factory swap or a rebuild...whichever is recommended at the time. Angelo Sartor does superb work plus he builds racecars...he's work on all of my cars and he knows Infiniti's very well. My transmission mounts are perfect...apparently they had been replaced before.
New Stabilus hod shocks were installed. Plus, I lubed the hood latch, trunk latch, and all door hinging mechanisms with lithium grease.
Aesthetically, I had the whole body x a dented...super nice guys in Metairie. I've wetsanded all scratches out and with a rotational buffer set to 1700 rpm and Meguiar's haze and swirl remover 2.0, restored my paint job to a rockin new shine....this stuff is amazing. I've sealed the paint with Meguiar's carnauba wax. I also ordered a bk8 match touch up bottle of paint from
http://www.paintscratch.com. Superb match to any color...just give them your oem paint code. I've been detailing cars since I was 13. For a 14 year old car, it looks great. In time I will get the car repainted with a 2 stage nonpearl color match for the original BK8 paint code. I get compliments all the time on the car's condition so a repaint is a ways off.
My oem stereo works perfect...I just use a cassette adapter for my mp3 player integrated into my windsheild mounted gps (V7 1000). Works and sounds great. I also have cheap color match mats on top of my pristine oem floor mats to preserve them...my wife has a habit of shmutzing the cheap mats upon entry...I can sleep knowing my oem car mats are spotless inside.
Sorry for the long post but I guess my point is this. If you plan on restoring one of these amazing cars, do it realistically and effectively. This car can be had for cheap, but it is not cheap to own. It will reward you for your work , but to do it right, USE ONLY OEM PARTS. My car is a testament to this. For the 12K including price I have in this car, I have a reliable exotic sedan that outperforms and aesthetically bests a cookie cutter newer car that can be had for about the same, if not more. The biggest lesson engineering school taught me is to treat everything as a process. To restore such a complex and unsung car requires forethought and a budget. Once again, it is not cheap. But when your wife who could not care less about cars drives your Q for the first time and spouts"I had no idea your car was so nice...man it's fast!", you have done it right. And remember, this response from my wife was caused by a subdued and elegant sedan and not some flashy thing with a fin and dubs that belongs in that movie, "Too Fast, Too Stupid." I simply replied to her with a grin, "I'm glad you like it. Don't get used to it...gimme my keys back and here are the keys to YOUR 4Runner." I do love her truck also, and she is indeed a truck girl...she likes the bumpy ride
Happy belated New Year to all on this forum and I am very proud to be a part of this forum. As I've mentioned before, the true problem solvers here are effective and purposeful, unlike other forums where it's all about underglow neons, and dubs. I am one of the ones who fell in love with this car as designed, so I am a purist when it comes to Q's...the balance of form and function prevails for me. I could not have restored my car without this forum. Happy Mardi Gras to you all!!!! I'll repost soon.
Modified by Dabizzo1 at 7:42 PM 1/24/2008
Modified by Dabizzo1 at 7:49 PM 1/24/2008
Modified by Dabizzo1 at 9:06 PM 1/24/2008