Hey looking to see if you guys can help me out with the crank. The placement for the magnets. First time with the sds and don't wanna mess up. Thanks

http://www.sdsefi.com/program.html

Scroll down to Installation and Tuning Manuals and select the appropriate one for your kit.

Or better yet, sell the SDS kit and buy some tech from post-1980!

Thanks bro. I was kinda confused at first , now I got it. Don't wanna sell it lol.

No problem!

Home, trigger, trigger, home, trigger, trigger!

I remmeber drawing the pulley and marking the magnet placement, life size, using CAD.... for my neighbour years ago
Fit on a 8.5 x 11 sheet. All he had to do was cut out and overlay it on the crank pulley
It didn't take him long to go from never tuning, to having that stock motor pegging the 30psi gauge
Car was skating all over the road, even 2 long tire marks in 4th - lol
Did the job for what it was
He's all AEM now, in a 2JZ/74mm S14. He'll never get dash back in that dam car again. Ever - lol

dash wrote:I remmeber drawing the pulley and marking the magnet placement, life size, using CAD.... for my neighbour years ago
Fit on a 8.5 x 11 sheet. All he had to do was cut out and overlay it on the crank pulley
It didn't take him long to go from never tuning, to having that stock motor pegging the 30psi gauge
Car was skating all over the road, even 2 long tire marks in 4th - lol
Did the job for what it was
He's all AEM now, in a 2JZ/74mm S14. He'll never get dash back in that dam car again. Ever - lol

damm, smart idea . Now I'm going to trace a pulley on a paper and mark it before drilling . Thanks for the idea bro.

Where did you mount the sensor? You know you have to have that sorted out before you locate the magnets, right?

It's on the alternator side.

The hall sensor can be move more in. But I'm taking my time doing the magnets on the crank.

The most important part, IMHO, is making sure the two trigger magnets are exactly opposite, or 180°apart from each other. If the home signal is off a little, it won't make any difference, and if the three magnets aren't exactly oriented the correct way, you can adjust the magnet position to accommodate.

float_6969 wrote:The most important part, IMHO, is making sure the two trigger magnets are exactly opposite, or 180°apart from each other. If the home signal is off a little, it won't make any difference, and if the three magnets aren't exactly oriented the correct way, you can adjust the magnet position to accommodate.

thanks

Hey guys
I'm back again, so I'm having a problem with the car starting up but It's getting fuel and spark , any idea or pointers will help thanks.

Like it won't fire at all? If so, do you have a wideband? Are you sure you have the right coils going to the right cylinders?

I got it spark plugs going to the right spot and I didn't install the wideband yet, idk if it's the setting for the fuel or not but it turns over and a lot of backfire. Maybe too rich.

My set up is
Gt2871r
450cc
248/248 in/ex cams
3 bar gm map
Gm iat sensor

And turning the mixture knob up and down doesn't help? Are the stock MAP values in there? What are your RPM values set to?

The more I turn the knob to the right the louder the backfire lol. And the map valves I took it off the Sds website for 3 bar map. For rpm fuel its set 80 from 500 to 3000 rpm.

Could the cam timing be off? Without a wideband to know what your cranking AFR's are, it's hard to say what's going on. Have you tried adjusting the start value at the engine temp you're at up? It sounds to me like it's too lean, or the cam timing is off.

The car started and run on my last set up, so I know it's not the timing and I have to weld my exhaust together to put the wideband in. I been messing with the start value and ended with 32, but I didn't do it to the et . Ill try that next. Thanks

Et only matters after the engine has started

Yea never got it started yet lol. but I know I'm going spark and fuel I pulled the injectors with the fuel rail and saw all of them spraying. I just email Sds and hope they get back to me . But if any of you guys ran in somewhat of this probelm please help . Thanks again guys

They're probably going to tell you you need to get the exhaust on there and the wideband hooked up so you know what your cranking AFR's are... Which is what I'm going to tell you. Also, do you have a way to have someone else crank the engine while you check the ignition timing? Maybe you have the ignition timing too advanced/retarded and it won't start due to that.

K I'm going to line up the exhaust and weld it and install the wideband , I'll let someone crank it while I set the timing .

Have you set base timing? (Not the cam timing, base ignition timing.) Have you set your trigger edges? Coil firing edges?

Also, a wideband isn't going to tell you anything useful about your AFR's while cranking. Don't worry about precision at this stage. If your fueling is in the ballpark of what the engine wants it will run.

That being said, if you're getting fuel and spark but it won't catch and it's backfiring like a sumbitch it's telling me there's an issue with your base timing.

Base ignition timing with an SDS defaults to 10°BTDC. There are no trigger or coil firing edges with an SDS. It doesn't use a trigger wheel or the optical disc in the CAS. There are magnets mounted in the crank pulley and a Hall sensor to detect them.

My Innovate is pretty good about telling me the cranking AFR's. There's about a 1 second delay before the exhaust gasses hit the sensor from the time I start cranking.

I agree about the base timing. On the SDS there is a parameter called "Magnet Position". It is adjusted until the measured timing matches the programmed timing. Usually though, it's only off a few degree's, and the engine will still start.

I did just think of something though, is the OP running gasoline, or ethanol? Also, what are your RPM timing values from 500-1500? Any timing advance or retard between full vac and 0psi?

float_6969 wrote:Base ignition timing with an SDS defaults to 10°BTDC. There are no trigger or coil firing edges with an SDS. It doesn't use a trigger wheel or the optical disc in the CAS. There are magnets mounted in the crank pulley and a Hall sensor to detect them.

Well I'll be gosh darned! It really is "simple"!

My Innovate is pretty good about telling me the cranking AFR's. There's about a 1 second delay before the exhaust gasses hit the sensor from the time I start cranking.

One way or the other we're looking to see how the engine responds to changes in the mixture and there's no hard or fast rule with what AFR will make it fire up the easiest. Just give it what it wants.

I agree about the base timing. On the SDS there is a parameter called "Magnet Position". It is adjusted until the measured timing matches the programmed timing. Usually though, it's only off a few degree's, and the engine will still start.

Depends on his placement of the hall sensor and the magnets, really.

The installlation of the magnets in the crank pulley and the mounting location of the Hall Sensor is the most important part of the SDS installation. If any of that is off or wrong, it directly effects the timing, and there's not a lot of room for adjustment from a tuning standpoint.

If he can get a timing light on it while it's cranking and we can see where is timing actually is versus where it's programmed to be, that is going to tell us most of what we need to know regarding the Hall sensor/magnet location variable. If it's pretty close, then he's done that part of the installation correctly and it has to be a fueling issue, which is easy to deal with.

float_6969 wrote:The installlation of the magnets in the crank pulley and the mounting location of the Hall Sensor is the most important part of the SDS installation. If any of that is off or wrong, it directly effects the timing, and there's not a lot of room for adjustment from a tuning standpoint.

If he can get a timing light on it while it's cranking and we can see where is timing actually is versus where it's programmed to be, that is going to tell us most of what we need to know regarding the Hall sensor/magnet location variable. If it's pretty close, then he's done that part of the installation correctly and it has to be a fueling issue, which is easy to deal with.

Indeed!

Scoobydoo! Chop chop! Inquiring minds want to know!

Sorry , I been busy. But I checked the timing and it was on o* tdc. So I'll move to 10* btdc and keep anybody updated. Thanks guys. I just need another hand to start the car while I'm setting the timing.

float_6969 wrote:Base ignition timing with an SDS defaults to 10°BTDC. There are no trigger or coil firing edges with an SDS. It doesn't use a trigger wheel or the optical disc in the CAS. There are magnets mounted in the crank pulley and a Hall sensor to detect them.

My Innovate is pretty good about telling me the cranking AFR's. There's about a 1 second delay before the exhaust gasses hit the sensor from the time I start cranking.

I agree about the base timing. On the SDS there is a parameter called "Magnet Position". It is adjusted until the measured timing matches the programmed timing. Usually though, it's only off a few degree's, and the engine will still start.

I did just think of something though, is the OP running gasoline, or ethanol? Also, what are your RPM timing values from 500-1500? Any timing advance or retard between full vac and 0psi?

Rpm timing valve from 500-1500 are 10*. Vac and psi I have to check .