hey guys. its me the new rb20 owner.. I NEED TO FIND OUT IF THIS IS TRUE OR NOT.
hey guys. its me the new rb20 owner.. I NEED TO FIND OUT IF THIS IS TRUE OR NOT.
Someone told me I NEED the rb20 trans x-member.. is that really true cuz i thought i only need the rb20 engine front cross-member. ,.Cuz for now i'm on a low budget and i can't afford both crossmembers right.. So do i really need both
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nizmo zilvia
- Posts: 751
- Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2005 5:09 pm
- Car: 95 240sx w/ S14 SR20 Blacktop
Re: (Carl H)
no there was not... Can I use ka trans member? I mean did hear about it was okay to use but then someone i know told me i need the rb trans member along with the front crossmember but the front crossmember i already known i needed.
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gr8bryt
- Posts: 950
- Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2003 4:24 pm
- Car: 2003 Infiniti G35 Coupe 6-MT
1994 Toyota Camry V6 (Sold)
90 240SX SE Hatchback (Sold)
90 240SX SE (R.I.P--12/24/2007)
Re: (S13 240SX)
I got this from SCC's website, hope it helps even though you've got an S13. Here's the link if you wanna read more: http://www.sportcompactcarweb....240sx/
Mounting the EngineNow you have to start making decisions.
If you're eating rice and beans just to pay for the engine, you'll be glad to hear it will bolt in using the R33 crossmember and fit well enough to get you on the road, but the engine will sit a little higher and a little farther forward than is ideal. Some of the hood bracing will have to be removed to clear the throttle body and blow-off valve flange and the shifter will sit about an inch and a half forward of the center of the shifter hole in the floor. The cast-iron downpipe will also interfere with the steering shaft, and the transmission crossmember won't quite bolt in properly. The severity of the steering shaft interference varies from car to car, depending on how all the manufacturing tolerances stack up, how worn out the mounts are and how bent the car is. In some cases, you may simply need to notch the downpipe a bit, in others, you may need to fabricate a new one. Just remember, the engine will move around when it's making torque and from cornering loads, so give the steering shaft some room. You don't want the steering locking up in a moment of hard acceleration and cornering.
Both the Skyline and 240SX crossmembers are designed to accept left- or right-hand-drive steering racks, so putting your old rack on the Skyline crossmember is simple. The power steering return line from the 240SX is aluminum and is designed to act as a power steering cooler by running back and forth across the front of the crossmember before returning to the reservoir.
The front of the Skyline crossmember is a different shape, however, and the line won't fit. You have three choices here. Either skip the cooler and run a new piece of power-steering hose from the rack directly to the reservoir (not recommended), install a real cooler, or grab the old aluminum lines with both hands and bend them until they fit. You'll need to add some adell clamps, zip-ties, or bits of bailing wire to hold the lines in place if you take the third option.
The Skyline's transmission crossmember is nearly identical to the one on the 240SX, but the transmission is longer, so it won't line up with the holes in the car. Again, you have options.
If this is just a show car, file the bolt holes on the transmission mount so it can slide forward on the transmission a half inch or so. Then shove on the flimsy, flexy transmission mount until the center hole on each side of the crossmember (originally a drain hole, not a bolt hole, but it will work) lines up with the rearmost mounting hole on the car. Bolt it on with one bolt on each side (it's supposed to have two) and go polish something. Oh, sure, the top of the transmission will be jammed up into the top of the tunnel, but that won't really matter on a show car.
Now, if you actually intend to use that big turbo six to make power, two bolts aren't enough, and having the transmission hitting the tunnel won't do. Lying in a pool of sweat and gear oil assessing the situation with Brian Flynn of Super Tuner Motorsports (who was doing all the heavy lifting on this particular job), we realized both the height and mounting hole shortage could be addressed with a simple pair of billet-aluminum spacers designed to lower the transmission and relocate the holes simultaneously. He's going to make the spacers, we're going to tell you where to get them: http://www.supertunermotorsports.com. There, we've done our part.
Finally, if you want the engine to sit low enough to clear the hood bracing, the shifter to sit where it used to, the steering shaft not to hit the downpipe and everything to bolt in properly, there's a third option. McKinney Motorsports in San Diego, Calif., unStable Hybrids in Conyers, Ga., and by the time you read this, probably Super Tuner Motorsports in Ridgecrest, Calif., all make engine mount kits that move the engine down and back about an inch and a half. In addition to making everything fit better, moving the drivetrain, which weighs about 650 pounds, shifts the center of gravity in exactly the right direction. This is also the ideal option if you have an engine, transmission, harness and ECU, but no front clip.
Mounting the EngineNow you have to start making decisions.
If you're eating rice and beans just to pay for the engine, you'll be glad to hear it will bolt in using the R33 crossmember and fit well enough to get you on the road, but the engine will sit a little higher and a little farther forward than is ideal. Some of the hood bracing will have to be removed to clear the throttle body and blow-off valve flange and the shifter will sit about an inch and a half forward of the center of the shifter hole in the floor. The cast-iron downpipe will also interfere with the steering shaft, and the transmission crossmember won't quite bolt in properly. The severity of the steering shaft interference varies from car to car, depending on how all the manufacturing tolerances stack up, how worn out the mounts are and how bent the car is. In some cases, you may simply need to notch the downpipe a bit, in others, you may need to fabricate a new one. Just remember, the engine will move around when it's making torque and from cornering loads, so give the steering shaft some room. You don't want the steering locking up in a moment of hard acceleration and cornering.
Both the Skyline and 240SX crossmembers are designed to accept left- or right-hand-drive steering racks, so putting your old rack on the Skyline crossmember is simple. The power steering return line from the 240SX is aluminum and is designed to act as a power steering cooler by running back and forth across the front of the crossmember before returning to the reservoir.
The front of the Skyline crossmember is a different shape, however, and the line won't fit. You have three choices here. Either skip the cooler and run a new piece of power-steering hose from the rack directly to the reservoir (not recommended), install a real cooler, or grab the old aluminum lines with both hands and bend them until they fit. You'll need to add some adell clamps, zip-ties, or bits of bailing wire to hold the lines in place if you take the third option.
The Skyline's transmission crossmember is nearly identical to the one on the 240SX, but the transmission is longer, so it won't line up with the holes in the car. Again, you have options.
If this is just a show car, file the bolt holes on the transmission mount so it can slide forward on the transmission a half inch or so. Then shove on the flimsy, flexy transmission mount until the center hole on each side of the crossmember (originally a drain hole, not a bolt hole, but it will work) lines up with the rearmost mounting hole on the car. Bolt it on with one bolt on each side (it's supposed to have two) and go polish something. Oh, sure, the top of the transmission will be jammed up into the top of the tunnel, but that won't really matter on a show car.
Now, if you actually intend to use that big turbo six to make power, two bolts aren't enough, and having the transmission hitting the tunnel won't do. Lying in a pool of sweat and gear oil assessing the situation with Brian Flynn of Super Tuner Motorsports (who was doing all the heavy lifting on this particular job), we realized both the height and mounting hole shortage could be addressed with a simple pair of billet-aluminum spacers designed to lower the transmission and relocate the holes simultaneously. He's going to make the spacers, we're going to tell you where to get them: http://www.supertunermotorsports.com. There, we've done our part.
Finally, if you want the engine to sit low enough to clear the hood bracing, the shifter to sit where it used to, the steering shaft not to hit the downpipe and everything to bolt in properly, there's a third option. McKinney Motorsports in San Diego, Calif., unStable Hybrids in Conyers, Ga., and by the time you read this, probably Super Tuner Motorsports in Ridgecrest, Calif., all make engine mount kits that move the engine down and back about an inch and a half. In addition to making everything fit better, moving the drivetrain, which weighs about 650 pounds, shifts the center of gravity in exactly the right direction. This is also the ideal option if you have an engine, transmission, harness and ECU, but no front clip.
Re: (gr8bryt)
valiant effort, but thats for a RB25, not a RB20.gr8bryt wrote:I got this from SCC's website, hope it helps even though you've got an S13. Here's the link if you wanna read more: http://www.sportcompactcarweb....240sx/
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gr8bryt
- Posts: 950
- Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2003 4:24 pm
- Car: 2003 Infiniti G35 Coupe 6-MT
1994 Toyota Camry V6 (Sold)
90 240SX SE Hatchback (Sold)
90 240SX SE (R.I.P--12/24/2007)
Re: (S13 240SX)
My bad, I was thinking that perhaps it was similar configuration for both since the blocks are similar in dimension.
Re: (gr8bryt)
almost but doesn't help me with my question since on that link all they worked with was an rb25 on a s14... totaly different setup.
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DR_alvin_FT
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Sun May 27, 2007 4:13 pm
- Car: '95 s14
Re: (DR_alvin_FT)
I DONT HAVE A KA AUTO transmission CROSSMEMBER.. WILL A KA 5SPD TRANS X-XEMEBER WORK?DR_alvin_FT wrote:You don't need an engine crossmember, you can use engine mounts but it's more expensive.
For the transmission, the KA AUTOMATIC transmission crossmember will work just as good as the RB20
Re: (S13 240SX)
similar question here.....i have 96 japanese s14 silvia (rhd) with sr20de .automatic.......would the automatic trans x member.. work like the automatic ka trans cross member???.....work as well as?