Here we go again! Cranks but no start!

[moyea]

Heres what's going on. Car worked fine, engine was timed correctly, TPS was working, everything seemed fine (idle was slightly lopy because of the modified cams I believe is in the engine). Now, what I did before this proplem:

Bolted the ECU to the chassis (in its designed area) because I had it hanging temporarlly.

Installed a electric fan controller.

Replaced the two sensors near the water thermostat (one goes to the ECU the other to the dash gauge).

I then started the car it immediately sounded rough, tach wasn't moving, and it would almost cut out completely. I started two more times and on the third try it wouldn't even start up. I imagine the problem has something to do with what I've done between when the car worked and when it didn't. The new sensors maybe?
Modified by moyea at 1:53 AM 2/25/2008

[Morgs]

i would check the ecu wiring, u said you moved it, prehaps somethings pinched or exposed and touching.

may also be a bad ground or something so try unbolting it from its bracket and starting the car, see if it makes a difference?

[moyea]

I let the ECU hang like it was no change. Its giving me a code 55 which is all good to my understanding. I did put my hand on the fuel inlet hose and felt it pulsing, I put my ear to the injectors and heard them clicking. I then pulled the spark plugs and got spark from each one but I did find the plugs were wet with gas. Could it be flooded with fuel?

[Morgs]

i think 55 is all good or other errors,

it could be a stuck injector flooding it, or an injector o ring is bad have you had them out recently?

also check your wiring at the electric fan make sure nothings touching or shorting something out cuz like you said everything was working before you replaced those items, so even make sure its not something stupid at the sensors u replaced

[moyea]

Yeah I got big hands and sometimes they accidently disconnect things when I'm try to do work on the car.

I ran a cold compression test of 105 thru all four cylinders (obiviuosly not accurate).

I went ahead and removed the fuel pump fuse and turned the car over without the spark plugs. Hopefully after it has expelled some of the gas it'll start. This still doesn't explain the tach but we'll see. Wish me luck.

[moyea]

Well the car did start back up. This time I let it warm up before shutting it off. Still no reading from the tach. The car idles ruff and I'm about to take my 12ga. to it. I double checked all the wiring that I could and everything seems ok.

[Morgs]

i hear ya man, i was going a year with really bad starts, till last week fixing it witha friend of mine,

so, before this starting issue ur tach worked right? no other problems? and you didnt change anything at the ecu right?

[moyea]

Well, now I got the tach to read again. I killed the power and unplugged the ecu harness and tripple checked the wiring with still no issue. I then reinstalled the ecu to the harness making sure it was nice and tight. Restarted the car and bingo bango, the tach read and the car idled... sort of. It sounded like the car's timing was off. It was... back to TDC. I then set it to 15 (second mark from last on the right). Now the car has somewhat returned to the way it was, though it still has some issues:

1. Heavy gas smell from exhaust.

2. Engine doesn't idle very well. It tends to first rev up to about 2000rpm, returning to idle after being put into gear.

3. This time it didn't want to boost.

This engine has been a pain. Im tired now.

[duffman1278]

Adjust TPS, to about .45V closed throttle

Remove spark plugs and coil packs for about a day and allow the gasoline to evaporate.

And recheck your vacuum lines.

[moyea]

TPS is checked and fine.

Car is no longer flooded, which was my fault because of the frequent short starts I had been doing previously.

Tach reads fine now. Though I have not bolted the ecu back in place (I'm afraid).

I should mention that the engine had alot of the EGR stuff removed but the vacuum lines checked out. I went around the engine with starter fluid with no change in rpm.

Engine idles at 800 +/-50. I did the timing again. But when the car is reved in Neutral it fails to return to idle, rather about 2000 rpm.

Ran the car and unpluged the MAF which caused the rpm to drop.

The gauge reads about 7psi of boost. I should mention I have the BOV atmosphric setup.

I also believe this engine has modified cams installed.

[moyea]

It did it again when I tried to bolt the ECU to the chassis. Either its having a grounding issue or the ECU is bad because I already checked the wiring twice.

[duffman1278]

I'd have to go with ECU than.

[moyea]

I'd have to go with ECU than.

No, you were right. It was a bad wire, the tach wire that sends the signal to the gauge. And I thought my wiring skills were the bomb. I guess I should check the MAF wiring since I cant seem to drive the car past 2000rpm. In Neutral it revs past it just fine though.

[moyea]

Could the Water Temp sensor send the ECU into a fail-safe mode that wouldn't allow it to rev past 2500rpm?

[slowasss13]

i would say check that water temp sensert if its open the comp will think its like -45 out and dump a$$ load of fuel

[slociv]

It was... back to TDC. I then set it to 15 (second mark from last on the right).

you line up the right dot on the CAS with the cap closest to you with the second from the LEFT mark on the crank pulley

[moyea]

I did a MAF continuity test and everything checked out. I did throw a code 13 for the temp sensor but it just needed to be plugged in all the way. The engine now sounds a little better and idles much smoother/faster; however, it still will not let me rev past 2000rpm in drive. I also found an exhaust gasket blown out at the turbo-to-manifold flange.

But with even an exhaust leak shouldn't I still be able to drive the car past 2000rpm?

[moyea]

Had the car down for a couple days. Installed the new gasket.

Car wouldn't start again!!!!! WTF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Looks to be flooded again. Why the hell does this keep happening?

[moyea]

Check compression after I got the car started again. 110 psi in all cylinders, not good, oil was warmed up to about 175F. I checked this with all my intercooler stuff hooked up does that matter or does the TB open to the air?

With oil it read much higher. 210 then 180 ( I went crazy on the oil) took 10mins to burn it off.

Also with the twice flooded engine could we be talking fuel washed cylinders? Maybe leaking injectors?

Oh, and the car will now rev past 2000rpm in drive. The gasket sealed the deal. But the car doesn't idle 100% and in Nuetral after revving wont return to idle.

And what kind of Vac should I be seeing on my gauge at idle? I've been all over this car with starter fluid and cant find anything!
Modified by moyea at 8:50 PM 3/6/2008

[idahotuner]

normal driving you should see a vaccum of around 20.

i am having the same kidna of troubles with my car except i did so many modification it could be any thing

[slociv]

what BOV are you using? Are you still running a stock sr MAF?

If your BOV puts out to much air the car will stall because the maf doesn't know where the missing air went.. If its a crappy bov its a common issue for them to leak or be to soft.

[idahotuner]

^ me? or the op?

[moyea]

Well I'm using a Greddy RS and ,yes, it is atmosphric. I'm waiting on a part so I can recirculate. As far as a vac leak, I think I found it. I was test driving it (transmission still slips but thats another problem) and I heard a noise. When I stopped to check, my idle screw was missing. So now I just put a bolt there until I can replace the whole unit.

As far as the flooding, I have since replaced the FPR with the NISMO one and we will see if that helps. I believe the new fuel pump was building too much psi in the line and when the vehicle was shut off the build up was leaking through the injectors. I'm also considering tee'ing my boost gauge from a different source rather than the line that goes to the FPR. Any suggestions?

[moyea]

After installing the FPR and letting it sit a few days(after running it awhile) the car started just fine. Hope that helps somebody that is having a similar problem.

Now after test driving, the car sounds like its over revving/ rev limit at 4k when I'm driving. It does it sometimes and other times it'll rev past 4K. What is that all about?