Help, Lower coolant hose leak issue

[randOmcLamsheLL]

so last night i got the car started up FINALLY, turns out the lower coolant pipe was leaking..
i put it back on, sealed it tight, still leaked. took it off, caked gasket maker on it, stopped the leak.
drove it to work and as soon as i pull in it starts to smoke again..FROM THE SAME F_CKING PLACE!!!!!
wat the fudge am i doing wrong????

[vulcanrush]

smoke from the front of the car, from the engine bay?

[randOmcLamsheLL]

yeah, its from the lower coolant pipe, it wasnt smoke, it was steam, the needle was about 10:00 when i got to work, it didnt overheat like last time, i had my eye on the temp on the way to work

[BigTDogg (MA)]

I've edited your title, so it doesn't suck.

I'm also moving this to technical, and leaving a ghost topic in general for visibility.

[vulcanrush]

i have AAA, tow it, don't drive it
i'm a local, and i can look at it

[BigTDogg (MA)]

I mentioned before you need to torque your bolts to spec.

[randOmcLamsheLL]

yeah im going to as soon as i get home tonight, i cant leave my car here...the car stopped leaking coolant now..idk what is going on

[t.mcginley.jr]

The water pipe section that attached to the front of the block could be warped. Or are you talking about the rubber hose?

[randOmcLamsheLL]

the pipe that houses the thermostat..im gonna just buy a new pipe, a new thermostat, torque them to exact specs and see what happens

[randOmcLamsheLL]

ok so i was just curious..

does fluid go into the middle where u bolt it up for is that just there for decoration?

[mrmoose]

it goes in the middle, to the heater core and turbo coolant lines... thats not the one you have been having the problems with though is it? go to autoz and get some paper gasket material, then trace and make a gasket, then coat the gasket in BLACK oil resistant silicone, nnot the red or clear crap, i found the black stuff to be the best. after its coated let it dry partially(10mins maybe) clean the surfaces with brake cleaner and put a thin film of black rtv on both the housing and block. assemble hand tight, give 10 mins then torq down. should be good to go.

[randOmcLamsheLL]

it goes in the middle, to the heater core and turbo coolant lines... thats not the one you have been having the problems with though is it? go to autoz and get some paper gasket material, then trace and make a gasket, then coat the gasket in BLACK oil resistant silicone, nnot the red or clear crap, i found the black stuff to be the best. after its coated let it dry partially(10mins maybe) clean the surfaces with brake cleaner and put a thin film of black rtv on both the housing and block. assemble hand tight, give 10 mins then torq down. should be good to go.

nah those were okay, i did replace the hoses with silicone ones though..
this is what i see after i took the pipe off, sorry the quality is bad i had to find it in a video..

looks gross i know.

[mrmoose]

nice ha ha, if you want another pipe i think i got one lying around, you can have it just pay the shipping...

[randOmcLamsheLL]

how much would shipping be to 07001?

[mrmoose]

idk not much im in ny so its not too far. pm me your addy and ill ship it to you.

[t.mcginley.jr]

No matter what car it is it seems like the paper thermostat housing gaskets always leak. Once the original one leaks and you try replacing it, the paper ones always leak. I just skip the paper and use ultra copper RTV... one continuous bead around the circumference of the t-stat housing, hand tighten it, wait a few minutes and then torque it down. After its torqued down I don't fill it with fluid for a few hours. It says it takes 24 hours to fully cure but usually a few hours does it