Post by
Hijacker »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/hijacker-u9394.html
Tue Feb 15, 2005 6:04 am
you should also get the proper grade of bearing for the car, not buy a set and compare them to the old bearings. Some of the thicknesses between bearing grades can be so minute that we can't see the difference, but it could mean a huge difference in the motor.
I personally would rather have a machine shop go through and check all of my tollerances and mic everything for me so I can have a more exact fitting bearing. For re-used cranks, you really should follow the measuring procedure instead of using the codes on the crank.
Now, all of this is for when you replace the crank with a new one, but as long as you haven't spun a bearing, or had your crank machined on at some point, this method should be ok.
The top line of numbers is the main journal grade. As long as you haven't turned the crank, those numbers should still be used to cross reference for your bearings.
Basically, you're going to add the numbers together to get your main bearing grade.
You're going to take the first number from the block and from the crank and add them together. Then you take the second and add them together, and so on.
There are 7 grades of Nissan bearings.0 = A, Black1 = B, Brown2 = C, Green3 = D, Yellow4 = E, Blue5 = F, Pink6 = G, No Color
In your case, your first main journal will be 2, Green. Your second will be 3, your third will be 2, your fourth will be 4, and your fifth main will be 3.
The rods are a bit easier to do because you don't have to add anything. There are only three grades of thickness for the rods.
0 = No Color1 = Black2 = Brown.
Just use the number stamped on the crank for this.