Help with rod bearings

For the RWD SR20DET cars! Sponsored by Wiring Specialties.
TS4L
Posts: 101
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2003 5:35 pm
Car: 1989 Nissan 240sx w/Sr20DET

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Hi guys, I am replacing the rod bearings in my SR20DET and I need help translating the numbers. The numbers on the block by cylinder 4 are F01011 and the numbers on the crank are 22232 and right under the those numbers are the numbers 2222. Can someone explain to me how to translate or tell me what rod bearings I need from the Nissan dealer?? Thanks for you time


DawgMode
Posts: 646
Joined: Wed Aug 04, 2004 3:22 pm
Car: 180sx
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An easier way is just go to the dealer and ask them for bearings for the (wat ever year your engine is) sentra se-r 2.0L bearings and just make sure they are the same size as the old ones...this is what i did

TS4L
Posts: 101
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2003 5:35 pm
Car: 1989 Nissan 240sx w/Sr20DET

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Did you get OE bearings or aftermarket bearings??? And did you just use Plastigauge to check your cleareances???

180fan
Posts: 7799
Joined: Sat Dec 14, 2002 12:16 pm
Car: 89 fastback

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All 4 rod bearings are grade 2.

DawgMode
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Joined: Wed Aug 04, 2004 3:22 pm
Car: 180sx
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i got the OE bearings from a local dealership

DawgMode
Posts: 646
Joined: Wed Aug 04, 2004 3:22 pm
Car: 180sx
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yea u got to get the Plastigauge

TS4L
Posts: 101
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2003 5:35 pm
Car: 1989 Nissan 240sx w/Sr20DET

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Awesome Thanks guys!!! I already have the Plastigauge just need to go get the bearings. So grade 2 it will be Thanks again!!!

Onizuka
Posts: 8450
Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 5:24 pm
Car: 91 Nissan S13 coupe SR20DET
89 Nissan S14 hatch SR20DE

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Might as well pick up a set of new SE-R headbolts while your there if your sr is already apart.

TS4L
Posts: 101
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2003 5:35 pm
Car: 1989 Nissan 240sx w/Sr20DET

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One step ahead of ya I got some ARP's Thanks Though!!!

DawgMode
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Joined: Wed Aug 04, 2004 3:22 pm
Car: 180sx
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why should he get new head bolts???

180fan
Posts: 7799
Joined: Sat Dec 14, 2002 12:16 pm
Car: 89 fastback

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stock bolts are stretch type. They stretch and can go out of whack. Hence new head bolts.

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Hijacker
Posts: 14373
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

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you should also get the proper grade of bearing for the car, not buy a set and compare them to the old bearings. Some of the thicknesses between bearing grades can be so minute that we can't see the difference, but it could mean a huge difference in the motor.

I personally would rather have a machine shop go through and check all of my tollerances and mic everything for me so I can have a more exact fitting bearing. For re-used cranks, you really should follow the measuring procedure instead of using the codes on the crank.

Now, all of this is for when you replace the crank with a new one, but as long as you haven't spun a bearing, or had your crank machined on at some point, this method should be ok.

The top line of numbers is the main journal grade. As long as you haven't turned the crank, those numbers should still be used to cross reference for your bearings.

Basically, you're going to add the numbers together to get your main bearing grade.

You're going to take the first number from the block and from the crank and add them together. Then you take the second and add them together, and so on.

There are 7 grades of Nissan bearings.0 = A, Black1 = B, Brown2 = C, Green3 = D, Yellow4 = E, Blue5 = F, Pink6 = G, No Color

In your case, your first main journal will be 2, Green. Your second will be 3, your third will be 2, your fourth will be 4, and your fifth main will be 3.

The rods are a bit easier to do because you don't have to add anything. There are only three grades of thickness for the rods.

0 = No Color1 = Black2 = Brown.

Just use the number stamped on the crank for this.


TS4L
Posts: 101
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2003 5:35 pm
Car: 1989 Nissan 240sx w/Sr20DET

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Nice!! Now I understand what the numbers are Thanks for the info!!!


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