Help with my strange wideband readings

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Jabberwocky
Posts: 159
Joined: Mon May 23, 2011 9:42 pm
Car: 08 Subaru WRX
Location: Taneytown, MD

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Brand new build, forged bottom end, BC v3 cams, Precision 6031E turbo, z32 MAF, Enthalpy ECU, 72# injectors, Walbro 255, MSD 6A w/ Blaster 3 coil, Accel Thundersport wires, NGK BKR7E's gapped at .035".

Alright I finally got my KA-T running smooth. It will sit and idle around 1000RPMs at cold start, and after a minute or so drop down to 750-800RPM. Timing is at 20*, set with the TPS unplugged. Fuel pressure is 43psi without vacuum, drops to about 39-40psi with vacuum. I followed a writeup on NICO to make a boost leak tester and pressurized it to 15psi (I am running with no boost controller, 10lb spring in my wastegate). I had a very small leak coming from the AAC on the rear of the intake manifold, which I plan on pulling off and sealing up soon, but that was all. Revs smooth, returns to idle fine, now my questions:

I am using an Innovate LC-1 wideband, which I just calibrated before starting the car. At idle it is showing full lean, 21.9 AFR. If I drive the car it runs right around 14.7 cruising, and drops to 12.5-13 in boost. I haven't really tried a WOT pull yet, only gradually took it to about 4500RPM in 4th to come in to boost a little. According to the wideband it ran rich while boosting, then as I slowed down it started feeling choppy and studdering. As soon as I let off the throttle or push the clutch my AFR rises back up to 21.9. After driving about 2 miles I brought it home and it choked up and stalled turning in the driveway. Started it, stalled again backing into the shop, and had a hard time starting it again. With a puff of black smoke it fired up and made it in. After sitting for about 15 min it would start and idle fine again.

Anyone have any experience with the LC-1 or know why it would be acting like this? I plugged it up to my laptop and tried to change the setup, but it will not let me modify any of the settings. I have checked the wiring countless times and it is wired correct. My downpipe curves under my firewall, and I cut a test pipe to make a 6" long piece to bolt to the DP with the o2 sensor bung. The bung is in the 2:00 position, but the exhaust ends about 3" after the o2. Could the exhaust being this open and the o2 sensor being that close to open air effect the readings? Another thing - after driving those 2 miles, my temp gauge did not rise at all. I replaced both sensors on the front of the intake manifold when I built the motor, could I have a brand new but faulty CTS?

I ordered a digital multimeter which I should have Monday, but until then I cannot check what voltage I am getting at the injectors, MAF, CTS, TPS, etc. What do you guys recommend I should check out? I am also thinking about ordering a PLX wideband to replace the Innovate, I read about a lot of issues with them and the calibration is a PITA.

Sorry this is so long, just wanted to thoroughly explain what Im going through. Any and all help is appreciated, thank you guys!


Seishuku
Posts: 498
Joined: Fri May 13, 2005 6:19 pm
Car: 1987 Nissan S12, 5-speed, SR20DE+T 50trim T3@15PSI, Megasquirt 1 029y4

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Sounds like you need a new sensor.

However, when you calibrated it, did you remove the sensor first? It needs to be in open air to do the calibration.

FWIW, I've been using my LC1 for I think 6 years now, never had any issues with it... So far I've only had to replace the sensor once (something happened to it, the heating element broke off), and it's actually due for a replacement again soon (just at the end of life).

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Jabberwocky
Posts: 159
Joined: Mon May 23, 2011 9:42 pm
Car: 08 Subaru WRX
Location: Taneytown, MD

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Yes, I removed the sensor from the pipe for calibration.

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s13drifter88
Posts: 1111
Joined: Wed Jun 23, 2010 7:40 am
Car: 93 S13 Coupe CA18DET (Money pit)
1996 D21 Hardbody (Work truck/daily)
!993 Del Sol (Daily)
1987 Pontiac GTA (Drag project, other money pit)
1989 SOHC S13 Buzz Car
Location: Huntsville, AL

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Ive dealt with the LC1 2 times in my life, next ones I deal with will be getting 5.56mm rounds sent straight through them. Get a UEGO, people talk shat about them saying the sensors dont last a long time but Ive had better results out of them than LC1's any day. Better to work for year than never at all, and no stupid free air calibrations needed. This is just my opinion though, were all entitled to one lol

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WDRacing
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Posts: 23925
Joined: Mon Nov 25, 2002 2:00 am
Car: 95 240SX, 99 BMW 540i, 01 Chevy Express, 14 Ford Escape
Location: MFFO
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I still have the old LM-1 and it still works like a champ. Although it's ugly as hell and bulky enough to be used as a self defense weapon.

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Jabberwocky
Posts: 159
Joined: Mon May 23, 2011 9:42 pm
Car: 08 Subaru WRX
Location: Taneytown, MD

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I have a new sensor on the way, so hopefully that will do the trick. I also found a small leak at the top downpipe flange where it bolts to the turbo, and the Innovate manual says a leak upstream from the o2 can cause wacky readings.

I fixed the AAC valve leak, and found that the CTS wire was corroded badly inside the plug so I snipped it off and spliced on a new one. Hopefully the new sensor takes care of it. I wanna drive!

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s13drifter88
Posts: 1111
Joined: Wed Jun 23, 2010 7:40 am
Car: 93 S13 Coupe CA18DET (Money pit)
1996 D21 Hardbody (Work truck/daily)
!993 Del Sol (Daily)
1987 Pontiac GTA (Drag project, other money pit)
1989 SOHC S13 Buzz Car
Location: Huntsville, AL

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WD- LM-1's are AWESOME!!! Even though its the size of an old school, green screen gameboy and like you said probably requires and concealed carry permit!

Jabberwocky- what your talking about is reversion. Its the exhuast gasses not steadily flowing, gasses are swirling and mixing and verbs and nouns and stuff and things.


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