Help with lower control arm replacement

[Jeff Williams]

My right front wheel on Lola is about 3/4" further back than normal. The culvert looks a lot worse off too. The rim and tire took most of the impact, but it appears the suspension has relocated without leaving a forwarding address.

I took her to the local shop, and they confirmed that the lower control arm (transverse link)is bent.

I ordered a new transverse link from Joe and attempted to put it on this weekend.

I was unable to remove the ball seat from the original one, even after beating prying and cursing.

While I had it off, I compared it to the original. They look identical. I know a 3/4" difference in the end of a 20" control arm is hard to tell by the eye, but I am really concerned about the front suspension member and tension rod brackets. The lower control arm looks beefier than the front suspension member.

Here are my questions:

1. How does the ball seat come off? Do I need a puller?

2. Since the car has no adjustment in the front caster or camber with factory parts, do I need to replace the suspension member, or can this be straightened?

3. Has anybody had a similar experience?

I am really wishing I hadn't sold Layla, now.

Here is a picture of the ball seat (it is in red) and transverse link (it is in blue):

[maxnix]

Dayum, wish I knew, Jeff. Surely Daedalus will be here soon.

[Q45tech]

Happened to one of techs recently........besides the traverse link its frame mount was bent along with steering knuclkle and lots of other things.

Don't think in 3/4" increments as just like 0.125" [at upper link] will change camber 1 degree...........the caster wil change.

[Jeff Williams]

Was he able to get the crossmember straightened, or did he just replace it? It looks expensive, but relatively easy to straighten, with the right tools.

[squeefoo]

Jeff there are measurement specs on pps. BF 160 - 161 in my 1990 FSM pertaining to the front suspension. It's some where to start, whip out the old tape measure and give it a go.

I'm sure you know the ball seat is aluminum and has prob. galvanized itself to the arm or is deformed.Have you heated it? Just heat the surrounding area with a torch, not too hot (no orange adjacent to the ballseat) AL melts at 1400F and becomes plastic at 800 - 900F so be careful. The ballseat is anodized.Then hit it with a hammer (not the seat) it should rattle loose.Anti-seize compound to reinstall, just in case...

[Jeff Williams]

Thanks squeefoo... I appreciate the help on the ball seat.

I will do some measuring.

I wonder if adjustable tension rods and upper links would take care of the problem?

I don't think the crossmember can be easily straightened.

[Jeff Williams]

I ordered a new ball seat. It was only $18. It should be here by Thursday.

The new crossmember is about $600, so I hope I don't need it.

Dennis, was that guy able to straighten his crossmember, or just swap it out?

I will swap out the lower control arm this Thursday, and let you guys know what I find.

Thanks for all the help.

[RobertsnewQ]

A frame shop should be able to tweak your crossmember into shape if you need it.

[maxnix]

A frame shop should be able to tweak your crossmember into shape if you need it.

Yeah, I would check it side to side comparison. Aren't the specs in the manual?

[Q45tech]

Supported the motor and pulled cross member changed motor mounts at same time.

Techs usually have a 2nd lift available to fit their own Q as spare time [after hours/Sat-Sun] allows. We have 5 lifts for 2.5 techs and 5 Q in the junk pile.

Every Q owner should have at least 1 same colored Q for a parts spare.

[Jeff Williams]

I think they are in the manual. I just don't have a good place to get the car up off the ground in a dry warm environment, to check it. A friend has offered his ship, and I might take him up on it, tonight. I will use a torch to heat up the ball seat, and a pickle fork to pop it off. The dealership said it would be March 12th before they could get one locally.

I will probably take her to a body shop tomorrow, to get an estimate.

I am starting to think the damage is well above my $500 deductible, and will probably end up filing a claim. The tire and wheel alone is almost $500.

I will let you guys know what they say & what the measurements are.

[Q45tech]

We must have done a dozen of these type repairs.........new tire and wheels parts and labor always runs a few thousand to get alignment back perfect................the kingpin and third link [and maybe hub] ABS ring, etc will usually also be trashed. Cradle and even shock tower can end up bent.

We changed out our first rear subframe silicone bushings [with urethane]on a 96Q took Byron 4.5 hours................vs 7 hours for a new rear subframe.

[Jeff Williams]

Finally got the ball seat off. I bought a $9 tie-rod removal tool and used my 10# sledge.

Replaced the control arm amd the tension rod. Everything lined up perfecly, and she tracks straight as an arrow.

Thanks for all the help.

Now all I need is a new wheel and tire and an alignment.

[maxnix]

Now all I need is a new wheel and tire and an alignment.

And a culvert warning system!

[Jeff Williams]

And a culvert warning system!

Yeah Baby!!!!

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