Help with infernal Tic-Tic-Tic....

[BIONICQ45]

I had a tic-tic-tic sound coming from my engine up until I had the spark plug/pre-cat disaster. http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....28086 After T3brought my Q back to life the ticking sound was gone. I’d noticed that it was gradually returning andtoday my wife stopped by my office for a chat. When I walked out to the car I could hear the tickingloud and clear. I would expect this from a domestic hooptie but not the Q.

Any idea on how to clear up this sound? I am considering going back to Valvoline Durablend or usingwhatever synthetic oil Valvoline may offer because the ticking wasn’t so bad until I switched to Mobil 1synthetic. Any body have any suggestions?

[greg_atlanta]

I had the exact same problem with the new Mobil 1 formulation. The valve clatter is normal for a high mileage Q but the Mobil 1 seems to exaggerate it.

I've been using Valvoline Durablend 10W-30 most of the time and just switched to conventional dealer oil (5W-30) at last change. The noise comes and goes. Not as noticable now since last oil change.

[greg_atlanta]

I think another Atlanta member (csoluri92?!?) had a similar problem maybe 6-8 months ago on his '92 Q. Might want to search on Mobil 1 or valve clatter and see what you find.

[PalmerWMD]

I had the exact same problem with the new Mobil 1 formulation. The valve clatter is normal for a high mileage Q but the Mobil 1 seems to exaggerate it..

Greg is right on,( for once,. j/k;)

One reason fotr this tick is that most Mobil1 users use the popular 30 weights from them , BUT those are thin even for a 30 weight ( which i belive are too thin in most cases to begin with).

I recommend switching to ValvolineSyPower 5w-40 (if you can find it, takes a bit of work sometimes) or MOBIL1 0w-40.

Fred...

[BIONICQ45]

Thanks a ton Greg and Fred. I'll dump out the fresh Mobil 1 this weekend.

[PalmerWMD]

Also just before the oil change do the ATF trick or run seafoam for a few days to reduce varnish which is often co-responsible for these ticks.

Fred...

[BIONICQ45]

How much ATF Fred and any particular brand?

[elwesso]

1qt right before the oil change....... Or a can a few days in advance.......

When anything like this is in the system, think of it as suicide to go over 3000 rpm.......

[PalmerWMD]

.75 to 1 quart of MOBIL1 atf, need synthtetic atf.

idle for up to an hour <right up to the actualy oil change.Dont drive unless very gently. around the block if u have a fill quart in it.

Fred..

[texasoil]

FWIT (for what it's worth), AFT is made with about 95% base oil--the same as used in 10W30--together with special additive packages (which also contain base oil). The additives are significantly different from engine oil, and do not contain near the detergency and dispersancy of engine oil formulation. They are designed to maintain the friction characteristics of the clutch materials and improve high temperature stability of the transmission fluid.

There is no 'scientific' basis for the belief that AFT fluid will clean up an engine any better than fresh engine oil--in fact, there IS sound technical basis to say DO NOT PUT AFT IN YOUR CRANKCASE.

If you have a varnished up engine, and want fast results use the STP engine flush strictly according to the directions.

Marvel Mystery Oil at 10% (1 pt in 5 Qts) max, and light load operations, will soften and remove varnishes and clear lacquer deposits more slowly with potentially less adverse impact on plastics and seals in the engine.

[Q45tech]

I don't know how 11 ounces MAXIMUM of Mobil 1 Syn ATF [with BG QC] grew to a Quart of Conventional alone, how did idle become 3,000 rpm.............think <pints of any flush solution. Think idle to 1500 rpm!

Conventional ATF can't stand the heat and will probably add varnish and coke around the piston skirts as the oil blows up to cool them.

For some unscientific reason BG Quick Clean for engines 11 ounces and an equal amount of Mobil 1 ATF or Toyota Syn V ATF seems to work on a Q45 engine better than all the other solvents.

BG requires you use a can [11 ounces of MOA] with Quick Clean to add extra ZINC to the oil just incase!

We tried everything [MM, pine oil, kerosene, Bardol, and every brand at stores, everything BG makes and some reagent grade chemicals that would kill a horse..................must be some chemical stablization of the BG with the ATF................great for a detailed scientific study.

Probably has to do with the size of the oil opening in HLA.

The Viton seals on the valve stems seem to deform from varnish [allowing oil to seep down the stem] and will recover [get round again] when the varnish is removed. All the seals in engine are Viton except the half moons in valve cover rear. So seal damage from most solvents is very rare.............now RTV is another thing!

http://www.dupont-dow.com/Prod...o.asp