help with 96 max

[temmanuel]

my 96 max has been very reliable for the few years i have had it.recently i can not get my car started. parked it one night next morning wont start.its cranking ,i have checked the basics like fuel,fuel pressure,compression,spark, the only code im getting from the computer is the knock sensor which should not prevent it from starting.i have a friend with same identical car and i swapped the crankshaft and camshaft sensors,i even swapped the computer its self but the car still wont start.is there any one out there that might have had this problem with there max or might be able to tell me whats the next step

[MaximA32]

I thought I remember seeing a hard start/no start TSB for the 4th gen Maximas. I'll make myself a little note and check it out tomorrow while I'm at work and I'll get back to you when I get home after 8pm EST.

[temmanuel]

thanks!! i will check back in later

[WDRacing]

OK, I'll start by saying I'm not a Maxima guy. So bare with me here. I can't remember what engine is in your car, VQ IIRC? I can't remember what years came with what. By checking spark did you pull the coil pack off the number 1 and crank the motor to insure you were getting spark?

WD

[maxhopper]

I would check the park/neutral position switch.

[WDRacing]

Doesn't the park/neutral switch keep the motor from turning over at all?

Have you tried starting fluid directly into the throttle body while you're cranking it? If it doesn't start, or atleast attempt to start while using that, then its a spark issue.

WD

[maxhopper]

Never had a problem with it, just throwing out ideas like everyone else in this thread. It sounds like he's covered all the basics.

[C-Kwik]

It might be the main wire for the injectors. Since they are all powered by the same lead, if it goes out for one, all goes out. Injectors will never open if this happens. I had a similar issue with an S13 I owned except the injector + lead was shorting out.

[Eikon]

hopefully this will be one of those stupid suggestions you can disregard... but I've seen easier fixes in the past...

Have you checked the amps that your battery is putting out?

I've seen too many people pull their hair out trying to diagnose an issue only to find out that the battery had enough power to make a cranking sound, but not quite enough to realy turn it over. Try taking the battery to a auto parts store and get it tested.. Make sure the terminals are not corroded and poorly connected.

[temmanuel]

thanks for the feed back guys, the battery is fairly new,i actually pulled all the coils and plugs and checked for spark and they looked fine,i also tried the starting fluid spray directly into the intake,still nothing.i dont think its the neutral/park switch because it cranks

[WDRacing]

Damn...if you have spark, then spraying the starting fluid into the intake should atleast get her to almost start. Does it even sound a little like it wants to start?

With you swapping the parts I would have suggested already, I'm fairly baffled.

[audtatious]

Well, lets see

- spark plugs look fine- all coil packs are sparking (right?)- Battery has good amps (amps, not volts?)- Gas is pumping and TB seems OK

air, fuel, spark and power....

What about timing? Could the timing have jumped?

[temmanuel]

the only thing that i have noticed is that if i let the car sit over night then try to start it the next day with my foot on the gas pedal all the way to the floor it will start,but you hear slight knocking in the engine and as soon as you let go of the pedal it shuts off and you cant get it to start again unless you let it sit over night again.

[maxhopper]

Try swapping the ECU with your friend and see if that could be the problem.

[temmanuel]

the computer from my car was placed in my friends car and his car still started fine.

[MaximA32]

Ok. I've got the TSB in hand for the hard to start/no start problem with the 4th gen Maximas.

This bulletin has been developed to address complaints of an engine which cranks over normally, but is difficult to start or will not start at all.

Service Procedure

1. Connect CONSULT. If the vehicle you are working with is not CONSULT compatible, connect a tachometer (digital readout if possible).\

2. Start the engine (the accelerator may have to be opened and/or the fuek pump fuse removed during cracnking to get the engine to start), and warm it to operating temperature.

NOTE: If the engine will not start after performing the above procedure, clean and dry the spark plugs, and attempt to start the engine again.

3. Run the engine to 2000 rpm (no load) for two minutes. Then shut the engine off.

4. Check the oil level and correct if necessary (between the "L" and "H" marks on the dipstick). If the oil level is overfull and has a gasoline odor, change the oil and filter before performing this precedure. If the crankcase is overfull with oil, idle speed adjustment may be affected.

5. Disconnect the throttle position sensor (TPS) connector. Now re-start the engine.

NOTE: When the engine is in this condition (TPS disconnected), the IACV-AAC valve and the ignition timing are held in a "fixed" position, and the idle speed is called "base idle." If the engine stalls with the TPS disconnected, the base idle speed is adjusted too low. Temporarily increase the base idle speed by turning the adjusting screw on the IACV-AAC valve until the engine will idle. On 1989-94 Maxima's (J30) with the VG30E engine, the IACV-AAC valve is a "stepper motor" type valve. To set base idle on these vehicles, set the ECCS ECM mode screw fully "clockwise". This will close the IACV-AAC valve completely to allow base idle speed adjustment. Return the ECCS ECM mode screw fully counter-clockwise after setting the base idle (see step 9).

6. Rev the engine 2-3 times to 2000-3000 rpm, then allow it to idle (all accessories "off").

7. Check the ignition timing with a timing light and adjust it to specification (if necessary).

8. If the vehicle is not CONSULT compatible, monitor the odle speed using the tachometer connected in step 1. If using CONSULT, perform the following procedure: Monitor the idle speed (CMPS.RPM) on the CONSULT screen.

9. Check the idle rpm and adjust to specification (if necessary) using the screw on the IACV-AAC valve.

10. Trun the engine off, and re-connect the TPS.

And that's exactly what the TSB says, word for word. You don't have to set up an external tachometer to do this procedure. All you're doing is disconnecting the TPS and adjusting the base idle. Base idle speed for your car should be around 750-800 rpm IIRC. Hopefully all this fixes your problem. Let us know how it goes.