Help with 95 maxima smoking!

[nastys13]

Yesterday on my way back from lunch I noticed my car started running really crappy. I felt this before no to long ago, so I didnt think much of it. Well after I got out of work I started her up but it would start right up like usual. So after cranking the motor a bit it finally started, but still the engine felt shaky at idle. I replaced the #4 injector about three weeks ago after I was getting a misfire code in the #4 cylinder. However this time I didnt get a check engine light or anything. I thought to my self, well I'll just driver her home like I did last time and take a look at her. Once I got on the road I noticed a cloud of smoke that would make Cheech and Chong proud and imidetly pulled over. I stepped outside with the car running and was hit with a strong gasoline odor coming from the exhaust pipe. White smoke was puffing out as well. Normally white smoke indicates coolent in the combustion chamber, but It didnt smell like coolent burning. More like raw gasoline. The car has about 125,000 miles on it, any help with this would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

[maxhopper]

Could possibly be an injector stuck open.

[nastys13]

Yeah I noticed the problem is in the same cylinder I changed in the first place. I got gasoline dripping out of my exhaust in almost puddles. Can my injector be salvaged, or do I need a new one?

[maxhopper]

Did you replace it with a used injector?

If a new one, take it back and get another. If it's a used one, you could have it refurbished. But I would recommend a new injector.

Also, check to make sure the o-ring is sealing well.

[nastys13]

Okay I've just replaced all six fuel injectors and nothing's changed. How is so much fuel making it to my exhaust pipe! when I put the new ones on I noticed that there was like a small pool of fuel inside the cylinder head valve's area, in the #1 and #2 cylinder, while the others were pretty dry.

[nastys13]

Anybody?

[MinisterofDOOM]

Hmmm...have you checked for spark in those two cylinders? If the fuel isn't burning, it could explain why there would be fuel in the head and exhaust. Unburnt fuel from two cylinders still doesn't explain why there would be that much fuel in the exhaust, though.It still sounds like those two injectors are staying open too long.

I'd go back to what maxhopper posted above:Are the replacement injectors new or used?If they're used, you may want to try swapping one of them with an injector from a cylinder that's not having issues to see if the fuel problem "follows" the injector.And even if they're new, make sure the o-rings are sealing properly.

[nastys13]

Yup brand new and out of the box.

[maxhopper]

Only other thing I can think of at the moment would be a bd O2 sensor. Are you still not getting a check engine light?

[nastys13]

I got a check engine light on, but is there a way to check it without a scanner? its a 95. I remember I took it to Autozone once to have it scanned and they told me that they could only scan '96 and up. But they whent out there anyways and it turned out that my car a scanner plug which was a coplete shock to them. I cant drive it because it feels scary as ****, and I dont want to cause anymore damage. I checked my coil packs while the car was running and cylinder numbers 1, 4 and 6 where not affected by me disconnecting them. But then I swapped then out with coils that were reacting and still nothing. The car did not run any worse. I guess that coil pack check method isnt as secure as I thought it would be.

[maxhopper]

Check the 4th gen how-to's in the FAQ thread on how to check CEL codes. All you need is a flat head screwdriver. zerothread/219453

It sounds like the spark plugs aren't firing if you switched good coils and still had the same result. You were due to change the plugs at 120k miles (plugs should be replaced every 60k miles). Check http://www.sparkplugs.com for a good price on NGK plugs. Do not use any other kind of plugs, or you will probably experience rough idling problems.

[nastys13]

Okay I'm to the breaking point with my car. I fixed the gasoline in the exhaust. Which was caused by bad o-ring seals by the way. But my car still runs like ****. I feel pretty stupid replacing all kinds of **** with no results. I've changed the injectors (all 6), the coil packs (all 6), new knock sensor and some other stuff I cant think of. Anybody have any suggestions? car idles really bad and the motor feels shaky and like its bogging out, start up is difficult.
Modified by nastys13 at 10:45 AM 4/17/2007

[MinisterofDOOM]

Make sure your spark plugs are good. Also, if you're running anything but NGK plugs, that may be your problem. Our cars don't like non-NGK plugs, and a lot of people see symptoms similar to yours using Bosch or other brand plugs.

Definitely refer to the link maxhopper posted to see what your CEL code means. That would likely go a long way toward solving the rough idle. My guess is it's either your plugs or MAF, EGR IACV or another common emissions-related culprit.

[nastys13]

Yeah I had it scanned the other day when I decided to replace the coil packs. I dont remember exactly what codes came out. I know I had three of them, but none made any mention of MAF failure. I remember getting a misfire code in the #1 cylinder. Something else about a possible bad O2 sensor, and I cant remember the third one. I'll have to go back and get it scanned again. BTW I'm currently running NGK plugs, and I've also tried Bosch plugs, neither seemed to work better. Any possiblity the plugs may have gotten damaged with all the fuel that was passing through my exhaust earlier? Wait I all ready know what your gonna say I'm just tired of replacing things.

[nastys13]

Okay I got my CEL codes handy.

P1320- Ignition signalP0150- Front left heated O2 sensor/ Closed loop controlP0301- Cylinder #1 misfire

Anybody know whats causing my car to run like this, and what I need to do to fix these codes? thanks

[nastys13]

Anybody?

[detroitmaxima]

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[nastys13]

Anybody have a pic of a good tool I can use to remove my O2 sensor. I looked at it yesterday but it seems that its a bit cramped in there for a conventional ratchet. thanks.

[maxhopper]

22mm open end wrench should work fine.

[nastys13]

So I managed to fix everything with my car except the misfire in cylinder #1. I've done all I have the patiance for, and looking for a local shop to work on my car. Anybody know a good shop specializing in Nissan repair? in the Phoenix AZ area, thanks.

[maxhopper]

The #1 misfire could be due to the excess gas fouling that plug.

[nastys13]

I've changed the plugs, the coil pack and the injector. I dont know what else to do??

[nastys13]

Well I thought I'd update this thread in case anybody is curious about what has happened since. I finally got my car fixed, and It only took a trip to shop. In the end I had a faulty injector in cilynder #1. The thing that upsets me the most is knowing I had to pay somebody to fix something I could have done, that s**t kills me. It has however taught me a valuable lesson; remember to check things twice! I guess I got too comfortable with the fact that I put in new injector next time I'm buying OEM Nissan parts whenever I can. Ohhh....I should also mention that my other O2 (near firewall) sensor when out on me shortly after I replace the first one (radiator). The guy at the parts store told me that it would happen...I guess he was right.
Modified by nastys13 at 4:18 PM 5/7/2007

[maxhopper]

Well, glad that you got it figured out. Before replacing the O2, I would reset the ECU, and wait for the bank 1 O2 code to reappear.

[nastys13]

How do you reset the ECC? I've only reset it at Autozone with their scanner.

[maxhopper]

http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecu.htmlBottom of the page.