Help with 08 m35 rotor removal and replacement

[streetmodified]

I've worked on many cars before including my current m35. The only things I've done on this car though is a radiator replacement and a brake replacement. Today I bought new rotors and brakes but when I was trying to replace my rear rotors I couldn't get them off. No videos are specific on a good may to get them off. Can anyone give me advice on how to remove the rotors properly?

[BlackCat81]

Smack them with the biggest hammer you can find to break the rust seal.

[steve_c]

Smack them with the biggest hammer you can find to break the rust seal.

LOL!
Yes, I have a favorite sledge myself Iv'e retired mostly dedicated to that task.....I even kept it in the section of my tool my box assigned to brake tools!

But, there is a kinder & gentler way I use these days!
Look to see if your rotor has a small screw hole drilled into it somewhere between the wheel studs.
If the screw hole is present, screw a correct size bolt into it, and gently tighten it up snugly, but do not strip it!
The hole sits flat on top of the wheel bearing hub flange...so when you screw in the bolt, it hits the hub flange & draws the rotor away from it at that point.
Again, just snug the bolt up firmly, no need to make it mighty tighty!
I then gently tap the rotor hub in the area between the wheel studs all the way around the rotor, then tighten screw again, and repeat until rotor pops!

Now for the trick....The correct bolt needed is metric. I snoop around the axle/shock/suspension area till I find one to borrow. Usually it will be a small bolt that holds down a clamp for something in that area. I think the head of the bolt you are looking for will be somewhere between 10-12 mm. (wrench) size. Be sure to put that bolt back from where you borrowed it afterwards!

[ae7456t]

The other issue that I have had with rear rotors...The parking brake.

Make sure that you release the parking brake, otherwise those rotors will feel like they are welded on.

[MIKE80]

When I did my brakes, I removed the calipers, wire brushed around the hubs and applied some penetrating oil. Adjust the parking brakes all the way in, if you go the wrong way the rotors will be hard to turn (adjuster is at the top). Then I smacked around the hub area front and sides with a hammer being careful not to hit the wheel studs, then a few hard shots on the back side of the rotors where the caliper was and they came right off.

I cleaned up the hubs and applied Never-Seez where the rotor sits. Also, I cleaned and painted the calipers with Hi Heat paint and applied Never-Seez under the brake pad clip area, and brake grease on the clips where the pads ride and also the back sides of the brake pads.

[BlackCat81]

Smack them with the biggest hammer you can find to break the rust seal.

LOL!
Yes, I have a favorite sledge myself Iv'e retired mostly dedicated to that task.....I even kept it in the section of my tool my box assigned to brake tools!

But, there is a kinder & gentler way I use these days!
Look to see if your rotor has a small screw hole drilled into it somewhere between the wheel studs.
If the screw hole is present, screw a correct size bolt into it, and gently tighten it up snugly, but do not strip it!
The hole sits flat on top of the wheel bearing hub flange...so when you screw in the bolt, it hits the hub flange & draws the rotor away from it at that point.
Again, just snug the bolt up firmly, no need to make it mighty tighty!
I then gently tap the rotor hub in the area between the wheel studs all the way around the rotor, then tighten screw again, and repeat until rotor pops!

Now for the trick....The correct bolt needed is metric. I snoop around the axle/shock/suspension area till I find one to borrow. Usually it will be a small bolt that holds down a clamp for something in that area. I think the head of the bolt you are looking for will be somewhere between 10-12 mm. (wrench) size. Be sure to put that bolt back from where you borrowed it afterwards!

Infiniti rotors don't have the retaining screws.

[steve_c]

BC,
It is not a retaining screw hole, no retaining screw is used! The threaded hole is not countersunk, so a flat head countersunk screw cannot be properly put in.
It would not sit flush with the rotor hub face. The hole only goes through the rotor. There is no hole on the hub flange, so you cannot use it to retain the rotor to the hub.
I was told years ago that the threaded hole is designed to act like a puller tool to assist in removing frozen rotors when you install the proper bolt into it as I have explained! I do not know that to be a fact, but it sure does work!

To see a picture of what I am referring to, go to Ilya's Brake Change How to. Look at the very first photo of the rotor Ilya posted in his write up.

Some replacement aftermarket rotors omit this threaded hole, but no one seems to notice because no one knows what it is for anyway!
Try it, it works! (Just remember to remove the bolt from it afterwards...!)

[BlackCat81]

BC,
It is not a retaining screw hole, no retaining screw is used! The threaded hole is not countersunk, so a flat head countersunk screw cannot be properly put in.
It would not sit flush with the rotor hub face. The hole only goes through the rotor. There is no hole on the hub flange, so you cannot use it to retain the rotor to the hub.
I was told years ago that the threaded hole is designed to act like a puller tool to assist in removing frozen rotors when you install the proper bolt into it as I have explained! I do not know that to be a fact, but it sure does work!

To see a picture of what I am referring to, go to Ilya's Brake Change How to. Look at the very first photo of the rotor Ilya posted in his write up.

Some replacement aftermarket rotors omit this threaded hole, but no one seems to notice because no one knows what it is for anyway!
Try it, it works! (Just remember to remove the bolt from it afterwards...!)

Ya, I know what you're talking about. They're designed so you can basically push the rotor off the hub surface. Same thing you can do in 2 seconds with a large rubber mallet and a babe Ruth swing. If it's still a factory rotor, it doesn't have them.

[steve_c]

Ya, I know what you're talking about. They're designed so you can basically push the rotor off the hub surface. Same thing you can do in 2 seconds with a large rubber mallet and a babe Ruth swing. If it's still a factory rotor, it doesn't have them.

I know for sure I have them on my original factory rotors up front (2006).
I still have all 4 original rotors on the car.
I am going to re-check rears, I believe I recall them their also.

[midnightclub619]

The other issue that I have had with rear rotors...The parking brake.

Make sure that you release the parking brake, otherwise those rotors will feel like they are welded on.

^^^^ Yes, I had the same problem with the rear rotors. Once I realized, I disengaged the parking brake and the rear rotors came right off