Sorry I think this will be long winded.....
'94 240, pull codes 34, 35 knock sensor and exhaust temp (cal. models only??) The car was purchased new in D.C. and has had another motor put in it. I read another post where it was a Cal. model w/ a non Cal. motor and they could not stop the code 35.
Is there any way to tell if this car was set up for Cal. emissions, or if the ECU is for Cal. emissons?
Should I try to switch the ECU?
Or does code 35 something else?
The shop replaced the EGR solenoid, but that did not fix the problem.
help w/ codes
the under hood label[white label with alot of writting on it] near the bottom of the label it will say "this vehicle conforms to U.S.E.P.A. regulations applicable to 1994 passenger car vehicles and conforms to california emissions regulations" or something along those lines. If it only says the first part about the U.S. but no where in that paragrah is the word california it is not a california emissions vehicle.
If you find its california check the small black hose under the BPT see if it is cracked or broken in any way. If it is replace it.
If you find its california check the small black hose under the BPT see if it is cracked or broken in any way. If it is replace it.
ok, here goes looked on an engine diagram it showed the sensor on the intake between 3&4 (just like you said) nothing there, all the wholes are pluged up. so I looked at the back of the intake and there is a sensor? about 2-3" below the egr. It has a two wire conector going to it and has a 19mm or so bolt (long about 2 1/2" all flat sided). I did not have the correct tools to remove it, but I disconnected the plug and made sure the connections were clean.
Is this the sensor?? I did not want to go through the trouble of removing it unless this is it.
Once again, Thanks for your help
Ok looked at the diagram a little closer the sensor? I am reffering to is just a little below the egr and a little over to the passenger side.
also as I stated before the motor was replaced, If it was a ka from another car would I be looking in a different place?
Is this the sensor?? I did not want to go through the trouble of removing it unless this is it.
Once again, Thanks for your help
Ok looked at the diagram a little closer the sensor? I am reffering to is just a little below the egr and a little over to the passenger side.
also as I stated before the motor was replaced, If it was a ka from another car would I be looking in a different place?
no I think you found it. It is the only sensor on your car that has wires coming right out of the center of what looks like a bolt. if thats how it looks you found it. The reason the sensor is in a different place is if you look carfully through the service manual it will say one location for a manual trans and the other for an auto.
If all the connections look good take the sensor out and clean the head of it with carb clean and reinstall it. No need to clear the code just warm up the car and take it for a drive if you fixed it the light will go out as soon as it detects voltage change from the heat entering the egr passage. The voltage on the sensor should be around 5 volts on one wire. The other wire at idle warmed up about 2.5 to 3.5 volts. if you could probe that wire while driving you should see the voltage drop down below .5v during steady cruising spedds of 50 to 60 mph.
If all the connections look good take the sensor out and clean the head of it with carb clean and reinstall it. No need to clear the code just warm up the car and take it for a drive if you fixed it the light will go out as soon as it detects voltage change from the heat entering the egr passage. The voltage on the sensor should be around 5 volts on one wire. The other wire at idle warmed up about 2.5 to 3.5 volts. if you could probe that wire while driving you should see the voltage drop down below .5v during steady cruising spedds of 50 to 60 mph.
ok, got to it this weekend. pulled the temp sensor out and cleaned w/ carb cleaner (looked clean when removed) replaced and drove. The cel did not go out so I reset the ecu, it came right back on (before it would take a few minutes of driving before it would trip the cel). I am going to hook up the volt meter to it this weekend to see what voltages I am getting from the sensor. I will advise.
oh, by the way the car is running much better, the hessitation at low rpms is almost gone.
oh, by the way the car is running much better, the hessitation at low rpms is almost gone.