HELP! These aren't just blown fuses!

ONLY for ADVANCED technical discussion about the 240sx!
97ka-t
Posts: 1938
Joined: Thu May 26, 2005 9:43 am
Car: 1996 Nissan Maxima
1998 Nissan Altima
Contact:

Post

So, 1. My Tail lights do not work- turn signals, and brake lights work.2. My gauge lights do not work- clock, and check engine light, etc. work.3. My corner lights do not work- my fogs and headlights work.I checked all the fuses, there was an audio fuse blown, but that was just related to my head unit- I think all relays are okay.. Did I ruin some set of wires that powers my tails, gauges, corner lights? hahaAny immediate help would be greatly appreciated!(Also, as far as I can tell, all these problems occured simultaneously)


97ka-t
Posts: 1938
Joined: Thu May 26, 2005 9:43 am
Car: 1996 Nissan Maxima
1998 Nissan Altima
Contact:

Post

EDIT:: After a little research- I have everything taken care of- sorry I didnt do an in-depth search before posting this!

PDX_S14
Posts: 126
Joined: Wed Sep 21, 2005 1:31 pm
Car: 98 240SX w/ sr20det

Post

what did you search under? same thing happening with my buddy 95 240sx right now.... i searching it right now too.... can i get a little help....

97ka-t
Posts: 1938
Joined: Thu May 26, 2005 9:43 am
Car: 1996 Nissan Maxima
1998 Nissan Altima
Contact:

Post

Search dash lights or something like that

PDX_S14
Posts: 126
Joined: Wed Sep 21, 2005 1:31 pm
Car: 98 240SX w/ sr20det

Post

thanks... what was wrong with your;s ?

User avatar
jdm_master_X
Posts: 3518
Joined: Sat Jul 23, 2005 6:22 pm
Car: 92 Nissan 180SX LHD!...LaWL
Contact:

Post

make sure these systems dont have ground wires touching each other. when you turn the key after replacing the fuse does it keep on blowing it? if so then there has to be ground wires touching each other and grouding each other out, causing ur fuses to blow. try to trace the ground wires for each system and determine where they meet. more than likely it was located in the front of the car.

i wish i could get some schematics for you, but this ALLDATA isnt letting me. sorry.


PDX_S14
Posts: 126
Joined: Wed Sep 21, 2005 1:31 pm
Car: 98 240SX w/ sr20det

Post

well my buddy 95 s14 base model is keep on blown the 75 amp fuse up in the engine fuse box...that 75 amp fuse keep on popping when we connect the battery. which that amp fuse is connect to all the gauge/lights/ tail light and we look under the desh loook like some one mess with the wires before .... so i go a head connect the wire back together...hoping that was the problem....then we put a new 75 amp fuse back in and reconnect the battery. pop! as soon as we got the battery termal in the fuse pop right away...... my buddy just pick up this car too... so dont know the histoy about the car......

User avatar
jdm_master_X
Posts: 3518
Joined: Sat Jul 23, 2005 6:22 pm
Car: 92 Nissan 180SX LHD!...LaWL
Contact:

Post

definitely a ground wire grounding itself out. until i could find some schematics for you, start where u plug in the fuse and trace the wire in there throughout the entire car. if you have a voltmeter, you could also test to see where u are getting current flowing. if power stops flowing in the same area when you test all three systems, then the short is isolated to that area. for each picture i will describe what you do to test for shorts. u will need a multimeter to do this okay (i hope you know how to read this chart)?

VOLTAGE CHECK TEST

1. Remove blown fuse and disconnected all loads (i.e. SW1 open, relay disconnected and sensor disconnected) powered through the fuse. 2. turn the ignition key to the ON or START position and verify battery voltage at the B+ side of the fuse terminal (one lead on the B+ terminal side of the fuse block and on lead on a good ground.)3.With SW1 open and the DMM leads across both fuse terminals check for voltage. IF YES, short is between fuse block and SW1 (point A) IF NO, short is further down the circuit than SW1.4. With SW1 closed, relay and sensor disconnected and the DMM leads across both fuse terminals, check for voltage. IF YES, short is between SW1 and the relay (point B). IF NO, short is further down the circuit than the relay.5. With SW1 closed, relay contacts jumped with fused jumper wire, check for voltage. IF YES, short is down the circuit of the relay or between the relay and the disconnected sensor (Point C). IF NO, retrace steps and check power to fuse block.

*** ALL OF THESE STEPS ARE FOR TAIL LIGHTS, INSTRUMENT CLUSTER, and SIGNAL LIGHTS, meaning all the steps for testing each point in each picture is identical!***

TAIL LIGHTS

CLUSTER LIGHTS

SIGNAL LIGHTS

if you dont have a voltmeter, you'll just have to trace the wires inch for inch and see where they meet and hopefully you'll find itself grounding out. happy hunting!

travisn
Posts: 949
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2004 11:34 am

Post

who ever keeps saying that touching grounds together is bad needs to think for a minute. what happens at a splice or common ground point? grounds touch, not a big deal because they all go back to the same place... touching two positive wires together might make something else turn on, but not a problem, only when you touch pos with neg... now alldata wont tell you this, you actually have to be able to think if you want to be able to use a refrence source...

unityGRSRTS
Posts: 9
Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:57 am
Car: 1989 Nissan 240sx

Post

This is almost the exact situation im in now. My head lights work, but the motor for the flip ups work when they want. Brake lights, side markers, signals, dash lights, HUD, and heat cut it and out. My buddies dad whos an electrician said to start off taking out one fuse at a time n see what happens and work from there. If this doesnt work im taking it to a shop that is good with electrical stuff.


Return to “240SX Technical Forum”