I FINALLY got all my parts together to turbo my KA !!

TIP- im using .08 inch copper for turbo gaskets bought it at hobby lobby hehehe... anneal it supposed to work we'll see CHEAP

anyways on to my struggle>


My only problem is im trying to clock my sr20det t25 turbo and the 4 13mm bolts that hold the center part to the exhuast housing....not coming loose got 1 of em another started to round off even with a snap-on flare wrench.........


I sprayed them all a week ago then again the day before and day of with PBblaster/liquid wrench/hyundai penatrate fluid.....

Torched em up with the propane is the way i got the 1 loose others no luck

I even put it in a vise smacked down on em with a punch a few times Sad day


so what do i do 1)chisel off the three heads left drill and tap bigger if i can even do that 2) try an oxy. torch heat em till they glow 3) bring to machine shop let them check it out? 4) sell it to someone with sr and try to get another one.?


thanks in a advance hopefully i can get this figured out

had same thing happen i took a grinder an cut the head of them of with a thin cutting wheel. an then the bolt part came right out thats best bet.

had same thing happen i took a grinder an cut the head of them of with a thin cutting wheel. an then the bolt part came right out thats best bet.

youre in a tight spot man. 2 options here. try to do yourself... royal pita or take it to a machine shop... spend a few chollaz.
diy = heat with either MAP gas (yellow tank, gets hotter) or oxy/acetalene (gets even hotter) then attemp to remove with 6 point wrench. 12 point will more than likely round since they dont grab the entire flank of the bolt

diy option 2 = weld a peice of steel rod to the bolt for handle to break torque (bolt may still break if totally seized) and then grind off steel and remove bolts with wrench replacing with new hardware and application of anti-seize

machine shop method = they remove, if they faqk it up they remove hardware, drill, thread and install thread inserts for original size hardware. labor costs will vary

SUCCESS sprayed it one last time with the PB left work came in next morning strapped it in the vise and tapped 13mm open end with wrist all of em broke free.....

I guess heating cooling sprayin then sitting over night freed them up??

I then took off the snap ring on the cold side and removed wastegate. Now im stuck again all the bolts are off but the one under the oil drain of course wont clear. Sprayed it tapped with hammer even put the coolant bolt in tried to tap spin it....BAD idea snapped off the threaded portion of the coolant bolt hole.....not using them anyways but still dont do that



Still cant seem to break housing free browsed a thread saying to hit it in star pattern i figure ill just give it a few days soaking. Its really hard to hold the chra while hitting it with hammer ill try to strap it in the vise monday. TURBO maint. blows to fragil for me def. wish i could just buy a brand new t28. <next upgrade

Couple more quick questions i dont feel like researching(i searched for a bit but) i dont know if they been asked

I was checking out all my oil feed fittings and i got the .63 restrictor can i put it anywhere in the line?? Can i bolt it to my oil filter sandwich then continue my an3 line ..... I didnt know if it had to be right before the turbo i wouldnt think it would matter but eh lemme know.

i know this is gonna start some flamming but can i run dual stock 240sx pumps. Read that a stocker pump flows 80-90LPH so if i ran two in parallel of course that be a GHETTO walbro. My buddy has one he'll give me and im out of $ for the walbro.

Possible problems- i guess pumps draw 4-9amps normally 2 is gonna double that #

Or my buddy has a 1987 NA rx7 fuel pump walbro 255 that i can get and try to make it work? more research.....

Im using an fmu just to get up and running! Im trying to do it halfway right reading a couple blown motor threads.






===On a side note i did a bunch of reading about fmu and fuel pump facts/theory. I keep reading that between 6:1 and 8:1 work for 240sx and pending carbon deposits and system condition this normally holds up fine. What about the factory 1:1 factory regulator does that mean fuel pressure is actually ex= 7psi stock fuel pressure 40---full boost 7x8+7!!!!!! so it be 103 NOT 96 like i always read ----just a thought

i read about a few dual walbro set ups and even a walbro on a NA ka24 . Installing a bigger fuel pump raises the "volume of fuel going thru the system. In other words 80lph to a 255 is almost triple the amount of fuel. I even came across a couple pump failiers due to running below 1/4 tank of fuel and the pump overheating from the increased flow. (tons of fuel pumping not much getting used fuel used to cool pump) I then looked into running a micro switch and series external pump coming off the intank and that seems like a bad idea didnt read into very much.

figured i try and get some group thoughts just alot of "sketchy" information out there*

id go walbro and just not have to worry about it. im a cheap arse, i never had more than 1/2 a tank and usually ran it till the light came on, some times farther (oops lol). I never had an issue from my walbro. i wouldnt trust the stock pump with an fmu, they raise the fuel pressure via increase in boost pressure but if the pump isnt supplying enough fuel volume then the pressure wont ever rise, it will begin to fall no matter how hard the fmu tries to raise it

you use the bolts to split the turbine housing from the chra...
sure use 2 stockers but dont come on here crying about your motor...


uhhh I dont understand you wording

stock fuel pressure is 43.5psi and fmu changes ratio upon the disc inside on a fixed ratio IF your pump can hang.The ka likes between 6:1 and 8:1 I found 7 to 1 a hair rich but it was safe and thats the goal.
If you run 7 psi on a 7:1 fmu it will increase rail pressure by 49psi over stock 43.5 and if your regular fpr is a standard 1:1 add another 7 psi to the total...

Sounds like a plan ill grab that walbro and make it work.

Bolts to split the turbine housing from it? Ill try to figure it out ill get back


I just kinda figured that a walbro was overkill and ive seen alot of threads that leave out adding the stock fpr ratio. Sounds good ill be boosting in no time. Im using rest of my $ on the walbro and skimping to pvc pipe for intercooler piping(away from engine of course). Ill try to throw some pics up as i get it assembled.

Well its a start right!

that color makes me think of a tractor motor lol but yea good start an pvc will work just make sure its not getn alot of heat.

Yea i was going for statue of libery/ $$$ green haha it was cheap bills wholesale engine paint. Honestly i wanted a color i could spot oil leaks easily but not to bright that it shows every fingerprint alpine green worked. I like to overthink stuff i guess....

Hopfully i can get it fabbed on tomarrow to start knockin out the piping. Its gonna be tricky because my t2 to t3 flange adapter put the turbo exhuast manifold pretty much against the brake master. Ill tape a ton of heat tape/wrap against it i guess ill figure it out.

yea just try to make in look clean so it dont look like crap i have seen so half a** s**t lol but as long as u like it

dont f*** use pvc pipe it will looks stupid and I will make fun of you...
I am the cheap a** on here, step ur game up, I have metal IC piping lol


you can never have enough of these things
boost
fuel(injectors and pump)
spark output

LOL good one man no he souldnt uuse it for the whole thing but it works for turns just caint put any heat to it or it will melt. an its will work for hime to get it going.

It will be behind bumper just the turns no big paint it black. I dont care at this point anyways just want it to run.

Hit little speed bump today one of my neighbors called city on me again for disabled vehicles and car parts.....I wish i knew which one it was. Guy across the street is a friken drug dealer and the guy that wrenches at respectful hours gets the shaft. .... spent my daylight today after work lowering my car and buddies z28 whos in afganistan im building for him.....

to be continued tomarrow...i got the turbo apart!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!***** wack the crap out of it with hammer star pattern

wtf people sux man bunch of a** holes

I know i know > FAIL >I am def. going to have to fab something up for the cold pipe coming off turbo that wont work. At least i got it clocked finally thats actually a decent task always wondered what the big deal was. O yea you guessed it my oil drain is angled away from my motor more fab.
yes its pretty close to my master cylinder....... yes i know that is a problem and a BAD idea .....ideas?



Yes that is a subaru intercooler i work at a dealer cant beat FREE right. I dont know how well it will work but i guess better than nothing plus it had the bypass valve right on it EASY.




Oil feed and of course my needle valve that hopefully keeps my engine from blowin

a cheap bottom mount header will work better cause a t28 is a bottom mount turbo idk lol ebay sell them cheap like 50 to 80 bucks. an u will have more room. u might have hood problems like that.

wait my bad u are running a t25 like i am u need a bottom mount turbo mainafold man i dont think that will work right. i am rinning a isis they are cheap an work real good an look nice. puts the turbo where it is not close to any thing. an a s13 sr20 intercooler piping fits real good for it thats best way to go. reson i thing it wont work is cause the oil feed will b upside down oil has to come in from the top an go out the bottom lol. or get a t3/t4 turbo your pick.

wow this is going to be the hardest put together t2 setup ever. What you are doing is basically making a mountain out of a mole hill. Making ALL the bolt on parts for a t25 setup completely useless to yourself, which will only increase the build cost and pains in the a**. I have a bottom mount manifold for t2 flange I will trade you. Where you located? Florida? not sure what shipping would be lol..

that is a hot side/ compressor outlet, remove it via 3 bolts and rotate it, that may help.

yea he could flip the center for the oil but u caint do the same for the commpresser an intercooler piping is going to have to be al coustom.

I got all the parts locally and i read to many bad things about bottom mounts no cast options unless the ISIS is? I have bout 430$ in all turbo parts so im doing pretty good. I have everything but piping so just welding and crap from here.

As far as clocking goes the compressor housing has to be in same orientation as turbine housing for wastegate. I guess i could make a custom bracket to mount it in different direction. Right now how it sits the oil drain is stright down like it should be. I agree i should have thought it out a little better ill make it work tho. I just need little metal work no big buddies got welder ill post up what i figure out. Its gonna clear the hood luckily !


Ill have to say i have a new respect for KA-T guys =put in werk!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The treadstone is supposed to be GREAT manifold i havent heard one problem yet. They are faily new to market tho ....

You read some wrong things on bottom mounts, hardly any bottom mount manifolds have any issues these days.

yea isis is not cast mine works great man olny thing cast has on the rest is it is stronger but the others work great they only break if your motor mounts are bad an motor moves alot lol. but cast will do that to an with most header manias like the isis they are even pipes witch helps the turbo spin to boos faster.

heres a pic of my isis

found out how to up size lol

hmm.

I guess i read the wrong threads i heard "my wategate flange snapped off" "3rd time my manifold cracked" "had to get it plained when i got it" "had to hack up the flanges then go get it plained" ......

I figured treadstone was the way to go. I think it will be allgood yea little more work but o well it be different! Who knows maybe it will never crack or give me an issue. It will look pretty cool probly at LEAST?

Yea however u want to do it is u want or can do it is up to u man never dogged any one of maken stuff there owen lol