Hello fellow Rogue owners, I am new here so please be patient with me, we bought our 2012 Rogue SL AWD with 115k miles odom on dec 2021, ever since I had it, we have it oil changed every 4 months at our Nissan dealership in our area. Last month we have it oil changed and they suggest these recommended mileage maintenance, I also started to notice that my gas mileages has been slowly deminishing, we averagely 23 ml/g high way but now its 19 ml/g. I also have a 3rd party warrenty and would like used it. The dealer said they can file a claim if any of these can cover but on the policy of the warranty said, we have to do the regular required serivce maintenance. So I wonder if you have a suggestions which one do you think is best first to do. they recommend to changed as following:
Spark plugs with coils $730
CVT Transmission fluid drain/changed $380
Coolant flash change $170
Fuel Induction/flash $250

Based on the list which one is the best options should I start, plus budget wise on the kinda expensive to go with the dealer. I also have a picture but I guess I can't attached on my post, the price quote is from Seattle,WA

Thanks all in advance!!!
Alan

If you bought it without maintenance records, then all of those things are a good idea. The CVT change is positively required if you expect to keep the car, and you should be doing it every 30K miles. You can cut the cost of that massively if you DIY it with a quality aftermarket fluid, there are plenty of threads in here about how.

I have a 14 yr old rogue.

You can definitely save mucho dinero if you do the first 3 yourself.

Don’t know what kind of voodoo magic is fuel induction/flash.

First time I ever heard of that in this forum in the 14 years I’ve been here since buying my new rogue.

casperfun wrote: ↑

Sat Jul 08, 2023 5:01 pm

Don’t know what kind of voodoo magic is fuel induction/flash.

First time I ever heard of that in this forum in the 14 years I’ve been here since buying my new rogue.

I'm assuming the OP meant "flush" and not "flash". If the dealership is honest, they'll clean the TB, decarbon the engine, put some BG in the fuel tank, and perform an IAVL to recalibrate the MAF. If they're thieves they'll just dump some BG in the tank and call it a service.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Sat Jul 08, 2023 11:54 am

If you bought it without maintenance records, then all of those things are a good idea. The CVT change is positively required if you expect to keep the car, and you should be doing it every 30K miles. You can cut the cost of that massively if you DIY it with a quality aftermarket fluid, there are plenty of threads in here about how.

Thanks for the response, my questions are do you know what kind of brand/product cost that I can use in terms of DIY, what would be the labor time that you will spend changing it.Is it hard to do it? I haven't look here on how to changed it, hopefully there are videos here or youtube that I can follow. Usually I try not to mess around with trans fluid because it you didn't do it properly then it will have some issues. We do have a rent a garage in our neighborhood that charges $30 hr for a spot bay with lift and tools. I do remember we haven't service that trans fluid ever since we bought it.

Thanks for the advice.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Sun Jul 09, 2023 7:41 am

casperfun wrote: ↑

Sat Jul 08, 2023 5:01 pm

Don’t know what kind of voodoo magic is fuel induction/flash.

First time I ever heard of that in this forum in the 14 years I’ve been here since buying my new rogue.

I'm assuming the OP meant "flush" and not "flash". If the dealership is honest, they'll clean the TB, decarbon the engine, put some BG in the fuel tank, and perform an IAVL to recalibrate the MAF. If they're thieves they'll just dump some BG in the tank and call it a service.

Thanks for the response. Correct me if I am wrong but I used to buy a fuel conditioner (stp, lucas oil fuel booster) to clean out the gunk/carbon in the system plus I always use 89 octaine on all my vehicles, previous owner use 87 octaine gas. It helps with a higher octaine to flash what ever in there.

Also if you do it the service scheduled maintenance, can you update the service recond on that vehicle let say if I will ask some like mobile mechanics to update the service record.

Thanks again.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Sat Jul 08, 2023 11:54 am

If you bought it without maintenance records, then all of those things are a good idea. The CVT change is positively required if you expect to keep the car, and you should be doing it every 30K miles. You can cut the cost of that massively if you DIY it with a quality aftermarket fluid, there are plenty of threads in here about how.

Thanks for the response but I have questions again. For those spark plugs do you need to use a special brand that requires or no adjustments to the gaps between the nods, also I am sure its easy to replace the ignition coils on top of the spark plugs. Is it wise to replace the spark plug wirings? I've look at amazon and found a parts for $80 a set for coils (4) some auto parts charges alot of money. I will look in here how to charged the coils as well the spark plugs.

Thanks

For CVT fluid, my personal recommendation is Eneos Eco. My customers who use it unanimously love it. Changes are easy provided you have a drain plug (some early ones didn't), but if not, it's fine to use a sucker down the fill pipe. Use a see-thru container and make a tape mark, then replace exactly what you take out. Don't overfill.

Cleaning the Throttle Body is something you can screw up if you haven't done it before, but if the car runs well, it's probably unnecessary. Drop some SeaFoam in the tank and call it good. Plugs are easy and there are no wires to replace, they're COP coils (Coil-On-Plug). Never trust pre-gapped plugs, get a $2 gap gauge from the parts store and check. Stick with a riceburner brand, Denso or NGK/NTK for plugs, Denso, NGK/NTK, Hitachi, or Hanshin for the coils (Nissan OE's are almost all Hanshin). There's a complete factory service manual (FSM) for your car available here in Nico, and we can give you guidance where to find stuff:
https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals

I know you can self-update some services like CarFax but I've never personally done it. The official Nissan service record will only get updated if a Nissan/Infiniti dealer does the work.

I actually cleaned the throttle body really, really, really, late in the game. In the last 14 years, only did it once a couple years ago because that hard plastic tube connector, I could never pull it out until I finally did. Used throttle body cleaner by spraying it down, then used a rag, toothbrush, to try to clean from there. I could never get the flap to move even with the ignition on so I just cleaned as best as I can.

I did use sea foam sprayed inside the tube using a straw back in the day. But didn’t know what I was doing. Smoke did come out the tail pipe and I did an Italian tuneup which was my ignorant self's fault. I seriously jammed the gas pedal to the floor with hulk smash intensity. I’m very surprised I didn’t break the engine or created serious wear.

Lastly, even though I was hesitant at first. I’m a firm believer of fuel system cleaning additives.

I had great success with BG44K and Techron. Actually cleared a few check engine light codes because of them. Pertaining to lean banks.

Just recently bought some Marvel Mystery Oil that I will add during the last 500 miles before an oil change and to the tank to lubricate the fuel pump. Heard good things about it so I thought I give it a try.

Did a couple of all in one treatments, forgot names.

These are all needed because of the crappy corn the gov’t mandated for our fuel.

I eventually bought identical spark plugs and coils from eBay. Basically plug and play, very easy install. Did this many moons ago.

1 coil was bad so I replaced all. I kept my original spark plugs as back up and actually used one to replace the eBay one that went bad somehow several years ago.

Keep originals for back up, I’m still using the one back up for the last 4-5 years which are actually 2009 spark plugs.

Rogue runs smooth as butter today.

You can do ALL that yourself.

The reason the cost is so high for the CVT change, is because you:
Drain, Fill, Start the car, idle 5 seconds, "R" 5 seconds, "D" 5 seconds.
Drain, Fill, Start the car, idle 5 seconds, "R" 5 seconds, "D" 5 seconds.
Drain, New Plug Gasket, Fill, Level procedure, done.

Castrol CVT fluid is $24.00 a gallon at walmart, here anyway. Buy three
gallons + 1 quart, then you:
Drain, Fill with one gallon, Start the car, idle 5 seconds, "R" 5 seconds, "D" 5 seconds, Turn Off.
Drain, Fill with one gallon, Start the car, idle 5 seconds, "R" 5 seconds, "D" 5 seconds, Turn Off.
Drain, New plug Gasket, Fill with one gallon + 1 quart, Level procedure, done.
Car needs to be level. With the car idling in "P", you pull the level plug, and let it run to a drip,
then put the level plug back in.

The specific reason for the 5 second shifter position intervals is to push old fluid out a little
at a time so it does not mix with the NEW fluid right away. This will get you at least 75% new
fluid in the trans. When you drain the pan, there is still 1 quart of fluid in the pan. The drain
opening is about .5" above the bottom of the pan.

Fuel Induction:
You do not have a direct injected engine, so the fuel washes over
the intake valves. You would only need to clean the intake manifold,
with seafoam spray. Dump a half bottle of Marvel Mysery Oil in
the tank before your next complete fill up. That will clean the
injectors, and intake valves.

Dump the other half into the engine 100 miles before your next
oil and filter change. That will clean the valvetrain and timing
components, and remove some sludge. I do this every 3rd oil
change.

Plugs and Coils:
One reason you replace the coils when you do the plugs is because
they may break when trying to remove them from the plugs. They
can stick to the plug, and tear the boot when pulling them off. Other
than that, if all the coils come off, then just replace the plugs. Pull
up on the coils to open a gap, and spray some PB Blaster down in the
valley, and let it sit. That little bit will do no harm to anything.

Have the coils on hand should you need them, if they break. If
you get all four off, undamaged, reuse them, and then return the
new ones. OR, if you feel better, use the new ones, and keep 2
of the used ones as spares.

I don’t doubt the professional way, which I actually learned was similar to the Honda way during research. But I’m too cheap to dump the cvt fluid so quickly because I got a great deal on a case and these things can be pricey.

So during my procedure, I run it at least a week or so. I believe I did 4-5 drain & fills in a 1 month period approximately some 5 years ago. It just feels easier doing it once a week. I don’t feel rushed to get it done so rapidly. I actually looked forward each week to do the procedure since it’s easier then an oil change for the first generation.

By the time I did the last drain & fill it came out practically new. Looked clear green. I took a picture and posted in this forum back then too. Basically if you just open a bottle and poured it out. Looked the same.

Doing it over time dilutes the new fluid into the old a lot more, is all.
That is why you do it the three times at once. Within that one week,
you have already put heat into the new fluid. Do it the way you want,
it is your car, but the proper way gets you better than 75% new fluid, as
high as 85% from the start. You won't get 75% doing it over a month.

I have a 12 Rogue SL AWD. 161K Miles

I get about 24 to 25 MPG.
I do Kirkland Synthetic every 3 months or 5k Miles - As for the filter - I use Fram or Wix. I bought them in bulk from rock auto when I had ordered some parts. Also I have the Drain valve installed so much easier to do oil changes. Just open the tap and let it drain

I have flushed the CVT twice but just fill and drain. First was done around 80k and the last one was done at 130k. Next one will be soon. I get the Idemitsu Type N ( did some research and they make the oil for Nissan and Nissan puts it in a fancy bottle and sells it) ** Additional notes*** The CVT fluid is under 50 bucks on amazon for 5 Quart. Its a steal

Now I get 26 Mph since I removed my driveshaft. Still waiting on replacement trying to troubleshoot vibration under load and up hill.

Transfer case and Rear diff have their fluid replaced about 3 times . Twice were same time as CVT.

Spark plugs were done at around 90K

Air filters are changed once a year both in and out

Throttle body has been cleaned twice. Last one was about at about 155K. Just cause was having some RPM dropping while standing but did not fix it. Most likely will try cleaning the Mass air flow and see if that fixes it.

Coolant flush been 3 times in its life. Brake flush as been once twice in its life. I do Brake maintenance once a year when I swap out winter tires or take a look at them if taking the wheel out.

I do drive gentle and keep acceleration under 3k at all times. So no fast pick ups and no flooring it on the highway either.

I have pretty much done all fluid maintenance my self.