I gave my mechanic my car for a fuel filter replacement. Not thinking, I gave him my keyring that had two keys for the car, one programmed and one not coded to the car. The mechanic tried to start the car with the uncoded key and it kicked in the security system. Now the car won't start and even the key cannot be removed from the ignition.

I had it towed to the local Nissan dealer. They've had it for a week now and cannot figure out how to unlock my car's security system.

Has any one of you had this sort of issue and how did it get resolved.

Thanks for any help in advance.

Try this, and then tell your dealership service advisor they suck.

https://itstillruns.com/reset-security- ... 54414.html

AZhitman wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 30, 2020 9:21 pm

Try this, and then tell your dealership service advisor they suck.

https://itstillruns.com/reset-security- ... 54414.html

Can't insert the good key in the ignition since they can't get the bad key out of the ignition.

I've never seen a security system on any vehicle that is able to prevent the key from being removed from the ignition - I'm thinking you've got a separate issue there, either the park/neutral safety switch has an issue or the steering wheel was turned and the steering lock is binding up.

Ryantzer wrote: ↑

Thu Oct 01, 2020 9:05 am

I've never seen a security system on any vehicle that is able to prevent the key from being removed from the ignition - I'm thinking you've got a separate issue there, either the park/neutral safety switch has an issue or the steering wheel was turned and the steering lock is binding up.

Agreed. I'm going back to the dealership tomorrow and do some investigating on my own.

Okay, so this is getting weirder. The key that's stuck in the ignition is the coded key.

ZiprHead wrote: ↑

Fri Oct 02, 2020 12:52 pm

Okay, so this is getting weirder. The key that's stuck in the ignition is the coded key.

By "coded", I assume you mean the RFID chip has been paired with the immobiliser? That will have nothing to do with physically inserting or removing the key.
I'd bet on the key cylinder mechanically binding and preventing the key from rotating back to the "0" position that allows insertion/removal (try twisting steering wheel as a start).

3Q Jay wrote: ↑

Sat Oct 03, 2020 6:35 am

ZiprHead wrote: ↑

Fri Oct 02, 2020 12:52 pm

Okay, so this is getting weirder. The key that's stuck in the ignition is the coded key.

By "coded", I assume you mean the RFID chip has been paired with the immobiliser? That will have nothing to do with physically inserting or removing the key.
I'd bet on the key cylinder mechanically binding and preventing the key from rotating back to the "0" position that allows insertion/removal (try twisting steering wheel as a start).

I'm thinking that myself. It won't move all the way to "Lock".

Okay, got the car back from the Nissan dealer but it still won't start.

It turns over like crazy good. I spray starting fluid into the airbox and it fires up. Just not getting fuel to the motor. The fuel filter has been replaced and the new fuel pump can be heard running.

What are the possible issues that could be keeping the fuel from getting to the motor?

Best would be for you to put a pressure gauge on the fuel supply just before it goes into the fuel rail. Note the measured pressure.
So you hear the fuel pump hummmm at first switch to Key ON (engine OFF)?
If pressure below 35psi, then there is a supply side restriction---fuel filter installed backward, perhaps? Or a return side lack of pressure regulation.

I took a look at the top of the tank and compared it to the illustration in the FSM. Not sure but it looks like the lines going into the pump are backwards. The tall one is connected in the back (towards the front of the car) and the short one is connected in the front (looking at it from the rear of the car). Can someone take a quick look on their car and tell me if this is correct?

I've looked for photograph of the tank hose layout but none found on google.

Backward lines at the pump would 'splain it.
I do not have my FGY33 anymore, so can't look for you.
If backward, keep in mind that you are presently supplying unfiltered fuel to the backside of the pressure regulator. I believe it is functionally a check valve when vacuum not applied. but if I'm wrong, then you could be putting unfiltered fuel into your rail and injectors.

I switched the lines around now the engine fires right up but it's like the fuel pressure is too low. Within a few seconds the rpms drop until the engine stalls.

The fuel pump I got was a delco 34 psi. I chose it because the other choices were all 24 psi.

Thoughts?

ZiprHead wrote: ↑

Wed Oct 14, 2020 5:20 pm

I switched the lines around now the engine fires right up but it's like the fuel pressure is too low. Within a few seconds the rpms drop until the engine stalls.

The fuel pump I got was a delco 34 psi. I chose it because the other choices were all 24 psi.

Thoughts?

OK, progress. I maintain the need to know the actual fuel pressure at the rail. otherwise, we're guessing.
Also, I do not understand the pump pressures you quote? All the pumps should be able to pump at least 55psi when the FPCU calls for it, or they are not to OE spec. There is a pressure regulator on the fuel rail that is vacuum controlled. should maintain ~34psi at idle, and go up to ~50psi when vacuum lost (as if you went to WOT).