Help s14 with cam swap

[Charlie240sxt]

Ok i was swaping to the 248/248 cam setup and now my car starts and idles fine but as soon as i rev or try to drive it its really boggy and sounds alot deeper then it use to. I am useing a UD pully and have heard that the timing marks are off would this be the case here?? Do i need to put the stock one back on to see if its out of time or do you guys think i messed something up. Just in case is there a way to test to see if i bent any valves without removeing the head??

How can i tell if i ****ed up the valves this is a ka with only 24k on it please let this not be the case.

and i have searched but this is really getting to me i was planing to boost mid dec

[lrb_2000]

I'm pretty sure there would be a lot of ticking if you bent some valves.. I would try putting the other pulley on just to check the timing.

[DjPantsSpecR]

You can check the clearances between the open cam lobes and the shims, and then check the FSM for what it should be. However, i had 12 bent valves from messing up my 248/248 swap back when there was bad information floating around, and using this test method yielded no results. so try it, but dont get too excited.

bent valves will show up on a compression test, which will also tell you how on time your cam swap is. Get one of these, ive seen a compression testor for 9 dollars, and autozone rents them for free.

the leakdown test is what you really want to try to find those bent valves, but a motor with 12 bent valves doesnt even fire up, ever. so hope that.

did you put a timing light on it? did you just retard out and set timing to TDC instead of 20 BTDC, i know i did that once, i was high, but i still did it...

my best advice to see if your TDC mark is actually at TDC is to pull out the first spark plug and put a long screwdriver or coathanger or anything long. Then slowly crank it around by hand until it stops traveling up, this is clearly the top

i can't think of anything else you need to know right now, but bent valves suck, almost as much as driving to school today in rush hour with no synchros and no clutch. I'm the new powershifting master

[Charlie240sxt]

would the car run if i bent the valves and how would it run like what would be the problems it would have

I have tryed to move the cams around 1 tooth each way thinking thay where off from a shop mess up

[dickie]

it depends. my car cranked but would not start. if theyre not that bad youd probably hear a noticeable click.

[Charlie240sxt]

Thank to everyone that posted up. Thecar is fixed i oppsed and had the EX cam off one tooth clock wise the timing still needs to be tuned in cuz any UD pully the timing marks are pretty far off so use stock pully when messing with your timing other then that i think everyone should do this swap if they are keeping there ka

GO 248/248 cams

[DjPantsSpecR]

now that you're a pro, bust out your 232 exhaust cam and put that back on the exhaust side, then tell me how you like it

[Charlie240sxt]

i am boosting end of dec is the 248/232 good for boost and how is it better then the 248/248 swap

[DjPantsSpecR]

i have no idea, but most KA-t posts i read, especially in other forums and such people use 248/232 for boost

i used to go off on this topic as i am a strong advocator for 248/232 hving had 248/248 for a few months before i changed to 248/232.

248/248 starts to just rip in the top end, but it always feels like you are making power where the motor cant even rev to. 248/232 has a sweet midrange and an almost identical top end. there used to be a mythological dyno between the two cam choices around FA, but i never found it. however the apparent results where 248/232 loses like 1-2 horses in the top end over 248/248 but you gain 4 ft-lbs almost everywhere else.

don't believe anything i've said, just give it a shot and see which one you like better, its really all about preference. 248/232 is sweet for the daily driver who likes to rip, but 248/248 just keeps stacking on power. and while is physically makes less power over the powerband, it feels faster because more power comes on quicker in the top end. Even though its only like a grand total of two more horses up there, but there isnt the midrange to compensate, so the gains feel like they are that much more.

i never went from 232/232 to 248/248 so i imagine you are still bustin one. I just got my 240/240 automatic car running and it is quite torqu-licious

oh yeah and to better answer your question 248/232 should be better because it promotes better cylinder filling in the midrange, which should help spool up a little bit, but since it doesnt have the huge cam overlap that 248/248 does there will be less reversion. and huge overlap is less than helpful on turbo vehicles, but necessary on an N/A one