Hello all, I'll skip the mumbo jumbo on why I NEEDED a replacement wiring harness on the drivers door of my 2015 SL.
I have disconnected everything on the door and connected the new harness to all the connections on the door, HOWEVER... I am having great difficulty seeing where the harness runs after the rubber grommet INSIDE the car, therefore I can't remove the old harness and plug in the new one. the end I'm speaking of has a smaller white connector, a larger white connector, and a small yellow connector. Would I be correct to assume that those 3 run to the bcm? I have tried putting my hand on the other side of the "wall" and tugged on the harness from the door jamb... no movement inside the car so I can't trace where it goes. Where do I go from here? I have tried looking at the FSM but I'm completely lost

There seems to be an issue with attachments so I can't post a pic, but if you look at Fig 4 on page 5 of this bulletin, I'll try to describe what to do:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2022/R ... 5-7473.pdf

The big connector above the ones being checked in the bulletin is your problem. It's called an SMJ (Super Multiple Junction) connector. The connectors for the door harness are in a cavity inside the door frame, but the hole is invisible until you move the SMJ out of the way. To do that, you need to disconnect the connector the bulletin is talking about, plus the other(s) at the bottom. Then remove a 10mm nut in the recess at the base of the plastic SMJ bracket. You can then loosen the SMJ bracket and push the whole glom aside toward the steering wheel, letting you see the wire bundle running into the door frame cavity. Once you locate the hole you can fish the bundle out and get at the door connectors, the bundle deliberately has slack in it to allow access.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Fri Oct 13, 2023 9:09 pm

There seems to be an issue with attachments so I can't post a pic, but if you look at Fig 4 on page 5 of this bulletin, I'll try to describe what to do:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2022/R ... 5-7473.pdf

The big connector above the ones being checked in the bulletin is your problem. It's called an SMJ (Super Multiple Junction) connector. The connectors for the door harness are in a cavity inside the door frame, but the hole is invisible until you move the SMJ out of the way. To do that, you need to disconnect the connector the bulletin is talking about, plus the other(s) at the bottom. Then remove a 10mm nut in the recess at the base of the plastic SMJ bracket. You can then loosen the SMJ bracket and push the whole glom aside toward the steering wheel, letting you see the wire bundle running into the door frame cavity. Once you locate the hole you can fish the bundle out and get at the door connectors, the bundle deliberately has slack in it to allow access.

great! got the SMJ bracket out of the way. I cant seem to get the bundle out of the cavity though... its real limited space. am I pulling from the bottom or the top? I have large hands...

Sometimes it gets hidden behind the insulation. Look carefully at the group of Main Harness bundles coming down from the steering crossmember and you'll find one that's heading straight into the side wall. If you still can't find it, it may help to pull the dash end panel (pries loose) and the lower dash (two screws also holding the hood release) so you don't have to duck your head.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Sun Oct 15, 2023 6:22 am

Sometimes it gets hidden behind the insulation. Look carefully at the group of Main Harness bundles coming down from the steering crossmember and you'll find one that's heading straight into the side wall. If you still can't find it, it may help to pull the dash end panel (pries loose) and the lower dash (two screws also holding the hood release) so you don't have to duck your head.

I see the one going into the sidewall is that connected to the 3 connectors? should I pull that one out first? it's kinda in the way

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Sun Oct 15, 2023 6:22 am

Sometimes it gets hidden behind the insulation. Look carefully at the group of Main Harness bundles coming down from the steering crossmember and you'll find one that's heading straight into the side wall. If you still can't find it, it may help to pull the dash end panel (pries loose) and the lower dash (two screws also holding the hood release) so you don't have to duck your head.

I'm about to throw this whole car away lol. I can't figure out how to disconnect the yellow connector

The snap spring on those connectors is very tough, finger pressure usually won't release it. You usually need to pinch it lengthwise with a channelloks or push really hard with the tip of a large screwdriver. Once you push in hard enough the connector will just pop.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Sun Oct 15, 2023 8:22 am

The snap spring on those connectors is very tough, finger pressure usually won't release it. You usually need to pinch it lengthwise with a channelloks or push really hard with the tip of a large screwdriver. Once you push in hard enough the connector will just pop.

I replaced the harness after 30 minutes of fiddling.... still no sound coming from my driver's side... which is why I wanted to swap out the harness in the first place.

at this point it's either the head unit or the amp. massively frustrating

If the harness (or speaker) was dead-shorted then it's entirely possible it overloaded and blew the output amplifier. If it's a Bose then probably not, they're usually very resilient, but when the head unit is pushing the power they don't survive long with shorted outputs.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Sun Oct 15, 2023 10:59 am

If the harness (or speaker) was dead-shorted then it's entirely possible it overloaded and blew the output amplifier. If it's a Bose then probably not, they're usually very resilient, but when the head unit is pushing the power they don't survive long with shorted outputs.

I have the bose with an android headunit with dsp... so not the amp?

The Bose in the Rogues is a "dumb" one with analog input from the head unit, so it's relatively easy to check. You will need to tilt back the passenger seat to get at it (four T50 screws). Don't disconnect the seat, you'll get an airbag light, just tilt it and prop it up so you can access the amp. You can see the reference values for the Bose on AV-243 here...
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 5%2Fav.pdf
...and the wiring diagram starting on AV-253. Put a meter set to AC volts across the Bose inputs for the LHF speaker and crank up the volume, if the AC voltage doesn't go up then the problem is in the head unit or the wiring between the H/U and the Bose. If you do have voltage, do the same thing with the outputs to the LHF. You should see a much bigger AC voltage (amplified). If you do then there's a problem with the speaker or the wiring to the door. If you don't, disconnect the door speaker and the Bose, then ohm the speaker wires to each other and ground. You should get infinity on both, if there's any reading then something is shorted. If the wiring looks okay then ohm the speaker, it should show about the rated ohms (2 for a Bose speaker IIRC). If it shows open or shorted then that's the problem. If all of that checks okay, then the Bose has a blown channel.

I'll have to try that when I get the chance. thank you for all your help!!!